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Looking great. How about sharing your procedures and technique on wet sanding (what git), buffing, and glaze to get that look. What brand products do you use/recommend. I think we would all like out cars to look that smooth and glossy. :thumbsup:
I like to color sand with 2000, cut with Meguiars Diamond cut, then buff with sure finish.. key is to lay the clear flat.. if you want the sharp image. black being the hardest.
 

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I like to color sand with 2000, cut with Meguiars Diamond cut, then buff with sure finish.. key is to lay the clear flat.. if you want the sharp image. black being the hardest.
OK, thanks for your technique. Almost 40 years ago I used to work in a resto shop and we used enamel paints and on some would wet sand/block and buff which took a lot of time being how fine the wet sandpaper used was.

I went to an autobody repair tech school after high school (after trying college which I hated and quit) and we used DuPont Centari. I painted several cars during the course and it layed on very smooth as it flowed well with the hardener added. So I always used Centari on all the cars I painted out of my garage for a few extra dollars. Always liked how smooth it flowed and the shine afterwards. Always laid a non-sanding primer sealer down prior to color painting.

Our painter at my workplace has restored/painted a couple older cars and he said the 2-part system worked nice for wet sanding. He said the clear coat is a polyurethane and if you had any blemishes, you could easily sand and buff, and even touch up and sand & buff. He said the problem was if you went into the color coat beneath the clear, then you had a problem. So he recommended it if you were going to wet sand and buff to get that glass smooth finish and shine. I have not painted a car in 35 years, so have not had the experience of using today's paints. :thumbsup:
 

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I like to color sand with 2000, cut with Meguiars Diamond cut, then buff with sure finish.. key is to lay the clear flat.. if you want the sharp image. black being the hardest.
OK, thanks for your technique. Almost 40 years ago I used to work in a resto shop and we used enamel paints and on some would wet sand/block and buff which took a lot of time being how fine the wet sandpaper used was.

I went to an autobody repair tech school after high school (after trying college which I hated and quit) and we used DuPont Centari. I painted several cars during the course and it layed on very smooth as it flowed well with the hardener added. So I always used Centari on all the cars I painted out of my garage for a few extra dollars. Always liked how smooth it flowed and the shine afterwards. Always laid a non-sanding primer sealer down prior to color painting.

Our painter at my workplace has restored/painted a couple older cars and he said the 2-part system worked nice for wet sanding. He said the clear coat is a polyurethane and if you had any blemishes, you could easily sand and buff, and even touch up and sand & buff. He said the problem was if you went into the color coat beneath the clear, then you had a problem. So he recommended it if you were going to wet sand and buff to get that glass smooth finish and shine. I have not painted a car in 35 years, so have not had the experience of using today's paints.
I really like Standox... a bit pricey.. I hate to paint in the garage, even if it's something small,.. I miss having access to shop...
 

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I like to color sand with 2000, cut with Meguiars Diamond cut, then buff with sure finish.. key is to lay the clear flat.. if you want the sharp image. black being the hardest.
OK, thanks for your technique. Almost 40 years ago I used to work in a resto shop and we used enamel paints and on some would wet sand/block and buff which took a lot of time being how fine the wet sandpaper used was.

I went to an autobody repair tech school after high school (after trying college which I hated and quit) and we used DuPont Centari. I painted several cars during the course and it layed on very smooth as it flowed well with the hardener added. So I always used Centari on all the cars I painted out of my garage for a few extra dollars. Always liked how smooth it flowed and the shine afterwards. Always laid a non-sanding primer sealer down prior to color painting.

Our painter at my workplace has restored/painted a couple older cars and he said the 2-part system worked nice for wet sanding. He said the clear coat is a polyurethane and if you had any blemishes, you could easily sand and buff, and even touch up and sand & buff. He said the problem was if you went into the color coat beneath the clear, then you had a problem. So he recommended it if you were going to wet sand and buff to get that glass smooth finish and shine. I have not painted a car in 35 years, so have not had the experience of using today's paints.
I really like Standox... a bit pricey.. I hate to paint in the garage, even if it's something small,.. I miss having access to shop...
Clear is Standox.. I need to rent a booth when I paint the tempest..
 

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Yeah awesome to see those kids into it! Mine are teens and 20's now and don't care much about helping dad skin knuckles anymore. Enjoy it.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
It’s been a little while since I last posted. Working on putting the car back together one piece at a time. What I’ve learned, if you think you took enough pictures during disassembly, take more!!! Still find myself scratching my head every now and then. Main project at the moment is wiring the car and keeping those wires hid. Will try and post some pics in the near future.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Car is coming along. Not as fast as I would like, but taking my time and working through any hiccups. Car is 85% wired, just have trunk/tail lights left to do. All my brake lines are now ran, working through parking brake cable issues since I upgraded the car to disc brakes. Just have drivers side glass and windshield left to install. Got my new wheels and tire installed. Hope to fire her back up in the next couple weeks.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
The car is coming along. Actually fired the engine up for the first time in almost 4 years this past weekend. Working through making sure each system is working like it’s suppose to(completely rewired the car). Just need to wrap up wiring up the tail lights and then it will be off to the top shop and the exhaust shop.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Finished up some valve train work. Anyone know how to post 30 sec video? Have some Engine idle porn.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
So the car is done except for some minor wiring and interior.
08626E15-52B8-4BC7-A817-A7E72BE71189.jpeg
4B15F5F2-888F-491D-A5F7-031993A6203E.jpeg

posi unit works.
hope to send to interior shop next week for a new cloth top and all the seats to be recovered and padded.
 
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