[Ron B]

Hello all. I have a 66 GTO and I'm looking for any documentation that provides information regarding the the removal and re-installation of the dash/instrument console. The factory chassis shop manual and Fisher Body service manual do not provide much detail. Anyone got a clue where I can find this type of information? Thanks, Ron

 

[GTOJUNIOR]

The following is how I choose to do it.
As a full assembly rather then laying under gauge panel to unplug all the switches and lights.

Disconnect and/or remove as needed:
Driver side seat. Not totally necessary, but makes the job a lot easier.
Dash pad.
Glove box.
Air ducts. (Main Air box on AC models)
Heater control cables & vacuum hoses.
Radio.
Ash tray & brace.
Speedo cable.
Steering Wheel.
Steering column can be left in, but needs to be unbolted and lowered.
Support brace for gauge cluster housing.
Door jamb leads & other feed/ground wires.
Unplug high beam switch.
Fuse block needs to be unplugged & unscrewed from firewall.
Upper & lower dash bezel screws &
the dash bezel can be removed with gauges/switches & wiring attached. (AS IT WAS INSTALLED AT THE FACTORY)

I'm sure I may have missed a few items, but removing it this way is best.
It went in this way and IMO comes out much faster this way. Then goes back in, in reverse order.
Good Luck & take it slow...

 

[geeteeohguy]

I leave the steering wheel on and just drop the column. Be careful. Parts are old and brittle. Be especially careful with the heater control cables and clips. Your digital camera is your friend. Take lots of pics before and during disassembly. And take your time. If you hit a wall, walk away for a bit and cool off. Slow and easy with the radio on will get it done.

 

[Ron B]

Thanks guys for the inputs. What I'm trying to do is install a clock in the instrument cluster. After reading other threads I think I can accomplish this with only having to remove the dash pad. Any thoughts on this? - Thanks again - Ron

 

[geeteeohguy]

The clock is by itself, even has its own lens. It is the most difficult to get to. The heater controls are in the way. Removing the pad gets you nothing. Just access to fasteners to get the cluster out. If you remove the radio and the heater control plate (let the plate float there, don't disconnect) you MAY be able to access the clock. Also, don't do what I did ten years ago and opt to have the original clock rebuilt to original specs. Get a quartz conversion. Mine was great for about 7 years and still works if I get it going by tapping on it. The rebuilder warned me, saying they usually failed within 5 years, and I remember this to be the case as a child of the '60's. So get a quartz movement!

 

[Ron B]

Thanks for the help, especially the quartz movement clock. To clarify, if I attempt to replace the blank space with a clock, and TRY to install a clock with out removing the cluster A) is there any reason to remove the dash pad? B) how does the blank cover get removed ? (i.e. is it secured with screws that then would be used to install the clock? If not what's the scoop. And C) since you are WAY MORE EXPRINCED with this, how would you tackle the project? Obviously I'm trying to get round opening Pandora's box by trying not to remove the entire instrument cluster. _ Thanks again, Ron

 

[GTOJUNIOR]

Well that changes everything, mentioning you were looking to install a clock would have helped.
As per the Service manual you need to remove the radio and the center air duct if you have AC.
You could also remove the ashtray and bracket for more access but this isn't necessary.
No need to touch the heat controls-cables.
This will allow you to remove the block-off-blank plate and install a clock.
Removing the dash pad is not part of this procedure.

 

[Ron B]

Again, gentlemen thanks for your help At 63 I'm not quite as motivated as I was 20 years ago so your help is greatly appreciated. GTO guy looks like we are from the same neck of woods, I live in Ventura county.

 

[O52]

There's only two good places to live in SoCal. Ventura and San Diego Counties. I'm currently in San Diego but lived in both. I fondly remember summer vacations in Camarillo during the mid-sixties cruising Oxnard and Ventura with my 16 year old aunt and her 61 Rambler. Just like American Graffiti.

 

[Ron B]

Ed, I agree about Ventura and San Diego counties. In fact I almost moved to San Diego 20 years ago. Cruise night in Ventura continued until the early 80's. Then the city put a halt to it. Bummer. While I'm asking lame questions I might as well ask one more. On the bottom of the speedometer there is a red lens that looks like and instrument light. Yet it doesn't work and I can't find any information that tells me what it is. Do you by any chance know? - Thanks, Ron

 

[O52]

I'm guessing the parking brake light.

 

[geeteeohguy]

It is the parking brake light. It was not standard. If the car wasn't ordered with it, the lens was installed but no switch or wiring was installed. In '67 it became standard. I have driven my '65 with the parking brake on more than once, I'm sad to say. It's been over 30 years, but the pain of the cracked brake shoes remains.....

 

[GTOJUNIOR]

 

[Ron B]

GTO Jr. Thanks, would mind telling what document(s) the top two pics came from? I can't make them out from your pics. - Thanks, Ron

 

[GTOJUNIOR]

Ron,
Those are from the 1966 Accessory Brochure.

 

[Ron B]

Thanks, again, boy my GTO is the definition of a "Plan Jane!" No parking brake lamp, no hazard flashing lights, no ash tray lamp, and no glove box lamp. As usual I have a few more questions.
1) Do you think the Accessory Brochure can still be found? and if so is it worth getting?
2) Your third pics shows the parking brake warning parts setting on top of what looks like a a page from some type of manual. What manual or document did that come from?
3) If I can find the parts (which I haven't started looking for yet), I would like to install the parking brake warning switch and light, and the road side hazard flashers. The parking brake warning system seems (I use the term seems lightly like it would not be to difficult, but the hazard light system is probably not. I guess it depends on where the switch is suppose to be located. How difficult are both of these to install?

GTOGuy, GTO Jr., and Ed I really appreciate all the information you folks have provided me. Obviously, I'm new to the GTO world, but I'm learning. And to top it off I just had rotator cuff surgery so crawling around under and over a car is out for a while. - Ron

 

[GTOJUNIOR]

Yes the Acc brochure can still be found and bought online. Its nice to have if you like items factory related to your car.
I've been collecting 1966-67 brochures, catalogs, promotional items and original advertisement's for years.

Looking at the accessory brochure you will see (F D) this indicates that the options shown could be Factory or Dealer installed.
As far as the 3rd picture that part of a dealer kit for the parking brake and this includes installation instructions.
This is how I was able to install the light in my '66 as it wasn't originally ordered with one.

What I have always found funny was that ALL1966 gauge clusters came with the bulb and "BRAKE" lens,
and if a buyer didn't order this warning light it was just taped over on the backside from the factory.
This warning light option cost around $4.81 new.

The hardest part of the kit to find is the brake pedal switch.
If your somewhat handy I'm sure you could make something. The harness is available in the aftermarket.

 

[GTOJUNIOR]

Hazzard Flashers, Another option that was a Plug & Play type installation from either Factory new or Dealer afterwards.
The Flarestat / Signal-Stat #105 units were Pontiac custom for 1966 with a cost around $11.50.
Very simple to install IF you can find one.

Another item I added to my '66 years ago.

 

[Ron B]

Well I found the parking brake switch and cable, no bracket, but that looks easy. Now onto the hazard lights system. I'm guessing that maybe a problem!

 

[Ron B]

While I'm at it, does the installation of the Hazzard lights require getting into the steering wheel column?