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Hi,

I have gotten out my 1967 GTO after it has set for a number of years. Its running good. I have the PHS docs and its a very nice original car.

I have been trying to decode the data plate on my GTO. A picture is attached. I can get most of the data such as the black bench seat, signet gold, Baltimore Assembly, build date, body number, ect. but I am stumped by the 671 number at the top of the plate (I think it could be number 671 GTO built at the Baltimore plant on December 6, 1966 but I am not sure?). I have no idea what the 219161 means at the bottom of the plate. It does not coincide with the VIN or the engine number. I can not seem to find these numbers on other data plate examples. Any help would be welcomed.

Thanks
 

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671 is your Daily Sequence number or sometimes called the job number that resets each day. This would include all makes of cars for the BAL plant since they made more than just Pontiac GTOs.

219161 is the manifest sequence number that spans across the model year that is internal to the plant.

You also have what appears to be a gate number of 6 (upper right hand corner above the word BODY). This is the location of where your chasis was welded up in the plant.
 

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Also, in response to your other question, your tag indicates a first week Dec '66 build date. Early 67 GTO's only came with an engine EUN code on the passenger side of the block. It does not correspond to the VIN. Later in the model year they added a second stamp near the timing cover with the "2" for Pontiac division, 67 for the model year and last 6 digits of the VIN. The only way to verify if the block is original on the early cars is by matching the EUN on the PHS to the block and verifying the date code on the distributor pad.

Lastly, it looks like you have a "G" for console car below the code for the bench seat. I thought the console was only available with bucket seats. Anyone else know what this means?
 

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Thank you guys,

Rodger that - I did not see the 6 in the upper corner of the data plate. Thank you for pointing that out. The 671 also showed up on a tag I found under the seat and it says Job Number. I understand it is some kind of daily plant total. Picture attached. Manifest Sequence number is also now understood.

67Twistytee - On the right side of the engine block shows YZ and the number above the letters matches the PHS Engine Unit Number (098428). See Picture. Date codes are:
Engine Block J266 = October 2, 1966
Casting Date: September 26, 1966
Carb: 3895S
Casting date: J296 = October 29, 1966
Carburetor: 7027262 L6 WA

I believe the engine, trans and rear end are original.

The car has a manual black bench seat with a fold down center arm rest?
 

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The code of 235 on your cowl tag is the black "Notchback Strato bench seat". This came with the fold-down armrest which was only available on the 2 door LeMans and GTOs.
 

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If original that YZ block would indicate it's an automatic HO engine. Very rare for a bench seat, column shift car. Most automatic GTOs came with a YS block. '67 auto 4-barrel carb should be a Rochester #7027262 so that looks original. The engine dates look correct for a Baltimore built car with a early Dec '66 build date, but the the YZ code is strange. Did you order the PHS and does it indicate this is an HO car?

You should be able to get the rear end code of the driver's side axle tube, readable when facing the rear of the car. Should be a 2 letter code.

The TH400 tranny should have a riveted tag on the right hand side. You should be able to match this to the date of the car build.

The build sheet you found also lists Group 2 R (rear seat or rear speaker?); Group 3N (roof reading lights); Group 4 G (this could be the arm rest since their were two bench seat versions offered in 1967) & H (heater delete?); Group 5Y are the custom seat belts.
 

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I will post the PHS docs tomorrow. Original owner said he ordered a bench seat, column auto and HO motor. He thought it was the fastest package at the time. PHS docs confirm HO motor, column auto., bench seat. It has the Ram Air manifolds and heat shield still in place. Rear is.3:55. PHS docs show wide oval red lines but no indication of wheels. Owner said he ordered wire hubcaps but the ones in the trunk when I picked it up were 1966 wire hubcaps? Not 1967s? I will have to get under it to check trans and rear end codes this weekend.
 

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Almost forgot it has courtesy reading lights on both sides, rear speaker, am fm, power steering, retractable seat belts, clock, tinted windows, original paint and painted pin stripe. It does have a heater however. Also trunk and engine compartment lights.
 

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Sounds like you have a very nice, all original car. Great that it still has the original block and RA manifolds. Mine is the same color with pin stripes too, but its had a respray and the pin stripes were reapplied by hand.

Did he do any work to the engine to lower the compression? Mine is still standard bore but with an added 068 cam. It pings with the original 670 heads. I've been mixing in race gas but have decided to bite the bullet and rebuild the engine to lower the compression. It's too much of a pain to drive it any distance on today's gas.

Good luck with the car and post some more photos!
 

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TwistyTee! My car was delivered in Siler City NC. Near you?
That's in Chatham County southeast of Greensboro. I'm about 1 1/2 hour drive southwest of there in Union County - closer to Charlotte. My car was built in the Pontiac plant on about the same build date as yours. It was delivered in Florida.
 

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No it pings too. I have about 33 degrees total advance it it at 3k with 670 heads and depending on the weather it pings a bit when I get on it. I think mine has the original HO cam in it. I added disk brakes to it and a ram air pan.

I would be interested in your rebuild. Dished Pistons or modified heads?
 

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The retarded timing helps some, but it's probably still spark knocking where you have it. The 670 heads like total advance closer to 36 - 38.

I still need to sit down with my engine builder to talk about the specs. I don't want to cut open the original heads, so they'll probably just get valve work and I'll go the dished piston route with a more modern cam grind. Aluminum heads sound appealing for the weight savings and heat reduction, but they're expensive and I'd like to keep the engine looking as stock as possible.
 

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Twistytee,

I have attached the PHS doc that show the 360 HP HO engine and turbo 400 with column shift. Maybe rare but not really valuable in my opinion. I think the original owner thought it was a bit lighter than buckets with a console. Seems a bit taxi cab like however.

I may crank up the timing a bit this weekend and see how it responds. We have some decent leaded gas here in Tulsa that I am going to try.

Vmax
 

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I still think it's a very cool and very rare car. To find a one owner, original paint, numbers matching 242 car with a YZ motor and original RA manifolds and a copy of the original build sheet is quite rare in this decade.

It's funny that he ordered it that way to presumably save weight but chose the HT over a post coupe. The coupes are lighter. Since it is all original, I'm not sure I'd want to change much. You could always convert to bucket seats and a floor shift set-up if desiring to change up the sporty feel a bit.

On the compression/detonation issue, I guess it depends on how much you drive it and the quality of gas you can get. The closed chamber 670 heads will contribute to detonation on today's gas unless you can get the octane way up or use true lead additive like Octane Supreme 130. Even if you can't hear it it's still pinging. That will eventually damage the internals if you drive it with any frequency. I tried keeping the timing down where you are but the exhaust temps would get too hot and the engine would overheat.

If looking to avoid this over the long haul, the cheapest route is finding a good head guy to open them to 80 - 85cc so you can get the compression down. Some guys chose to run different heads so they can save the original 670s and keep the rest of the engine unchanged. Uncut original 670s are rare.

I've found the 670s like a lot more timing, which keeps exhaust temps in check but definitely contributes to pinging. Since I like to drive it a lot and because like yours the driveline is all original, I've decided to budget more money and go the dished piston route.

Good luck and keep us posted on your progress.
 
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