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Well I’m starting work on my 67 Tempest ‘‘Rat Rod” project.
A buddy of mine found the car in a junkyard in the south while he was looking for pars for his GTO. Thea car was a bit too nice to use as a parts car so he kept it. A few years down the road he needed to sell All of his car so I picked up the GTO and the Tempest along with a couple LS motors from him.

So I decided to work on the white Tempest first. It’s not a GTO and the Body was rust free it had a nice patina to it so we thought we would leave it ratty replace the locked up OHC6 with an nice fuel injected LS motor, and do a frame off with some brakes and upgrades.
 

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More of a sleeper project aka rat rod theme. I would leave the body alone, maybe add "Lot #" to those numbers on the doors so it looks like it came right out of Pull-A-Part. Put a protective coat over the body -rust and all (I don't know if POR-15 might work in "clear" and spray it on?). Rebuild/upgrade the chassis and I think I'd go with a blanket/afghan over the front bench seat, no new interior stuff. I could live with an LS swap in this instance. :)
 

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Thanks Jim
That’s exactly it I was planning on leaving the surface rust on the body, but was not sure if I wanted to clear over it or just leave it. If I clear it should I use high gloss or a matte clear?
We just pulled off the body from the frame and blasted it and getting ready for some mini tub action. And the normal new bushing, springs, disk brake exc. Then I will spray it all with a nice coat of flat black.
I just welded in some floor pans and painted the floors and entire underbody with some nice flat black truck bed liner.
I think I’m going to run the factory original vinyl flooring back in it cleaned up very nice.
My next question was to recover the seat or toss a blanket over it but you already answered that.
 

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Thanks Jim
That’s exactly it I was planning on leaving the surface rust on the body, but was not sure if I wanted to clear over it or just leave it. If I clear it should I use high gloss or a matte clear?
We just pulled off the body from the frame and blasted it and getting ready for some mini tub action. And the normal new bushing, springs, disk brake exc. Then I will spray it all with a nice coat of flat black.
I just welded in some floor pans and painted the floors and entire underbody with some nice flat black truck bed liner.
I think I’m going to run the factory original vinyl flooring back in it cleaned up very nice.
My next question was to recover the seat or toss a blanket over it but you already answered that.
:thumbsup: Very cool. I would probably go with a matte overcoat to go with the aged look. I think gloss would be out of place, especially on those rusty spots. I would try a spot and see how it looks. You can email the POR-15 guys and ask them what might be best. I have seen rat rods that have some bare steel/rust as their exterior look and they have some kind of coating/clear that keeps them that way without further rusting. There may be another type coating they use, but I think POR may work.

I am doing my frame using the POR-15 Rust Preventative stuff after I sandblasted the loose rust/road dirt off. My frame is pretty good and I did not go crazy on it, just like I said, went over it to simply clean it off leaving light surface rust in areas that I only dusted over with the sand blaster. The POR-15 seems to work best on rust surfaces/sand blasted surfaces, so I left it at that and brushed on a light overcoat. Says to use 2 coats, but, I feel one coat is enough as I didn't have any heavy, deep, flaky rust at all. 2 coats probably ensures you "bury" the rusty stuff and seals it in. I just purchased a pint of POR-15 Top Coat as this is supposed to go right over the Rust Preventative coating and further protect and seal it. You can paint, but it seems in my research that some paints take to it and some may cause you more grief and need to be re-done. So I bit the bullet and thought I would try it this weekend and see if it works.

Of course there are indeed other options, and cheaper too, but I wanted something that "claimed" to encapsulate the rust and seal it. I like Rustoleum primer, but these new paints have been reformulated and just don't apply like they used to and lift/craze when you re-coat if you are looking for a smooth job, so I am leery if the protect as they used to.

The quart of POR-15 covers a lot. You pour what you need into another container. I think I poured out about 1/2 the can and used about 1/4 of that to coat the rear section of my frame which begins going up over the wheels and on back. If I did a 2nd coat, 1/2 can would be about right. So my guess would be that you would need just at 3 quarts to do a frame 2 coats with a brush. Might be some good stuff to brush into your lower inside doors and quarter panels. Just follow directions. As hot as it is lately, I waited until late afternoon for the temps to drop a bit before painting as it says not to paint above a certain temp. First time I have ever used the stuff, so this is not an endorsement as I don't know how good it really is or if it works like it claims.:thumbsup: Stop Rust with POR-15® - We Know What Permanent Means! Ordered mine from Summit online.

PS How about adding just 1 electric exhaust cut-out so you could just tweak it open enough to make the car sound like it has an exhaust leak. Talk about suckering some "new muscle car" owner in and putting him/her to shame with that old rat bag of a car! :yesnod:
 

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Back in the day, before the term Rat Rod, the term for a tired old worn out car was 'roach', at least here on the Left Coast. Remember though, that was an era of Peace, Pot, and Microdot! Neat project you have, I like the idea, and keep us updated!
 

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Well we got the flat black on the frame and did not like how it collected watermarks so we scuffed it up and spray it with gloss black and it looks much better. Then we starts suspension assembly and the disk brake conversion kit. It’s all coming together.
 

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After a few cocktails we decided to do a bit of work on the rear end. Well we did not make much progress. But any time in the shop with your old lady is good.
 

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After a few cocktails we decided to do a bit of work on the rear end. Well we did not make much progress. But any time in the shop with your old lady is good.
Ain't no way. That's gotta be some gal from a modelling agency you had to pay to look like she was enjoying herself. Ain't no way. OH! I just got it. :blush: You said "do a bit of work on the rear end." :cheers :nono: :rofl:
 

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Making some progress. We have all the floors welded in and painted flat back inside and out as well as the trunk pan. Then we started sliding the frame back under the old beast I picked up some rolling dollies from harbor fright that made the job a lot faster. Im starting to run the brake lines now and getting ready to assemble the suspension and paint the inner fenders. And with my extra money this week I hired the girl from the modeling agency to help out.
 

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And with my extra money this week I hired the girl from the modeling agency to help out.

:thumbsup: Looking good, the girl from the modelling agency ........and the car. It is coming along nicely and in pretty good time. At this rate, you'll be driving it before Thanksgiving. Very cool.:thumbsup:
 

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Well I got the body back on the frame (about time) and ever thing went together ok.

Next I got bored and wanted to see how the car looked so I hung front clip on the car. It was also the first time I had the hood on the car so I tossed the seat in so I could sit in and look out the windshield and make driving noises. Yep im lame but it’s all part of building cars.

We rebuilt the factory 10 bolt rear end I’m not really familiar with the 8.5, 10 bolt but from what I read it’s the one to have and almost as good as the 12 bolt. I pressed in the polyurethane suspension mounts and put that nasty grease that comes in the package with them on (that stuff is nasty).Then we painted it you guessed it gloss black and slid it under the car.

I got the motor all cleaned up and ready for paint and had to paint it Pontiac metallic blue and it looks killer, I also painted the trans and bell housing. Then we slid her in for a final fitment. I was not sure if the intake and alternator would clear the hood and I wanted to check the placement of the proportioning valve with the new headers. Glad we did I found that there is less than ½ of an inch clearance so I think I should relocate it on top of the frame rail or up to the brake booster like the Chevelles. I was very happy to see the intake and alternator will fit so that will save me some cash. So I’m pulling the motor back out to work on the brake lines a bit more and install the steering components.
 

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I gotta be brutally honest here. Very disappointing photos. Oh sure, the car looks great and progress is doing superb...........but where is the model you hired for the photo shoot? The photos are just not the same without her. :smilielol: At the rate you are going, you'll be on the road driving it before Santa arrives. Maybe you can give him a little run for his money....that's if you've been good. :thumbsup:
 

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Very nice Jim lol. The model is back at work trying to make me more money to put in the car. Please don’t worry she will be back. She is working hard to make some extra money for the new turbo set up we decided to add to our little projects. I think we’re going with the GT 45 turbo VS Racing
So I don’t know if we will make it before Christmas but will be on the road soon and planning on the power tour in 2016!!!

Like the photo below if you know what this is for.
Share if you have ever removed one to replace the floor pan.
 

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Very nice Jim lol. The model is back at work trying to make me more money to put in the car. Please don’t worry she will be back. She is working hard to make some extra money for the new turbo set up we decided to add to our little projects. I think we’re going with the GT 45 turbo VS Racing
So I don’t know if we will make it before Christmas but will be on the road soon and planning on the power tour in 2016!!!

Like the photo below if you know what this is for.
Share if you have ever removed one to replace the floor pan.

Not even a challenge on the ID. That's the Flannigan Delvekio Valve the regulates the 24V electrical box found on select Pontiac's sold to the US Army. Pretty rare and would probably fetch near $12,000 on Ebay. :thumbsup:

What you see there is the foot operated dimmer switch to change the headlights from low beam to high beam and back. You step on it to simply push it in and release. It does the same thing as the high beam arm on today's modern cars, except its on the floor in "the good old days."

Get a new one, easy enough. The dimmer switch will have a plug on it with a couple wires. Pull the plug and toss that sucker away.........or bronze it and mount it on a finished piece of wood, put a big price on it, and sell it at a flea market telling everyone that you were told it was rare, that your uncle brought it back after WWII, but not sure how it works. :lol:
 

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A shot of PB Blaster on that dimmer and Bob's your uncle.
Quit worrying about that floor pan that is just patina and it increases the value of the car.
Throw a set of Maypops on it and drive it like you stole it.
 

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I have been lazy and not working much on the old car. I was able to get the car a bit lower in the front end and most of the turbo hot side piping made.
Hopefully this week I will be able to plumb the fuel system and finish the turbo piping and mounting.
 

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I have been lazy and not working much on the old car. I was able to get the car a bit lower in the front end and most of the turbo hot side piping made.
Hopefully this week I will be able to plumb the fuel system and finish the turbo piping and mounting.

Nice fabrication work going on there. Going to be an awesome sleeper. :thumbsup:
 
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