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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Attached are pics of my water pump and alternator I pulled off the car today. I was wondering are these original to the car?
Not finding much part number info in the AIM or restoration guide.
The Ames catalog does list the water pump number and date code.
The water pump lists 9782482 and L140.
The Alternator lists 1100733, 55A, 6K17, 12V NEG. It’s a Delco-Remy unit.
Are these correct for a Jan 68 Pontiac Michigan site build?
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Thats a service replacement water pump. Dated Dec 14, 1970.
Something I've noticed about Pontiac 8 bolt water pumps. There is a large C cast into the housing for 8 bolt water pumps built after August of 67.
For a mid-January 68 build you would normally have a water pump with a Dec '68 date (L - 8)

Same for the Alternator. It's dated Oct 17, 1966. Replaced sometime in the last 55 years.

The letter designates the month. Here's where its a bit confusing.
For cast parts the Letter I is used to designate September. Dec would be the letter 'L'
For Stamped parts like the Alternator, I is not used. So Dec would be the letter 'M'
 

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The Ames 9782482 water pump isn't correct for matching numbers.
First it is cast with a large C which should date it after July of '67 as I mentioned above. Then they put a '66 date on it.
Pontiac didn't date their water pumps until mid '67.
 

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Since neither the water pump or the alternator are correctly dated for your engine, do you really want to invest the additional money to have these restored? I could see sending out original items for the car to be rebuilt, but wouldn't bother with these. Then again, I never could get that excited about peripheral items that have been replaced several times over the last 56 years, but realize that many people do.

My stuff is period correct from three feet away, well five if you have good eyesight...
 

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I have a 7-M-26 37 amp working core

if needed

on the water pump there is a few items to beware of

wrong impeller used on the rebuild
a cast impeller thats had the top shaved flat
8 bolt flange used

beware
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Here’s a pic of the water pump impeller side. Looks like cast iron..not sure how to identify if it’s had its top shaved flat. It does have an 8 bolt flange…but don’t they all in order to align with the timing cover? I can say of those 8 holes, previous owner snapped 1 of the bolts and drilled out to put in a bolt/nut. I’ll need to tap that one out. I snapped off another of the bolts but was able to extract with some heat and PB blaster.
Still debating having the water pump sent out vs buying new.
As for the alternator…it spins almost too freely. Not making any noises and I’m not sure if it actually works. Just thinking while I have the front end off the car it would be a good time to change it.
As for the power steering pump…the pulley has some in/out play and as with the alternator…may be a good time to rebuild/replace it.
Any leads on who rebuilds alternators and power steering pumps?
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I sent my alternator to a Corvette restoration shop in CA. They offer different levels of restoration.
About Corvette Stop - Vintage Restoration Parts and Exchange.
They also have an Ebay store with GM Delco original parts

Water pumps can be sent to 'The Flying Dutchman' up in Oregon.

But if you're concerned about matching dates Mick and Scott offer good advice. Wait to find an accessory that matches your build date and then have it restored.

If you have Air Conditioning you'll want a 55 Amp alternator, without air, a 37 Amp will do.
Eight bolt water pumps were used from late 63 to 68. The four cylinder also used the same water pump but it and the 63-65 pumps used a small impeller. They also have a different part number.
9782482 is the one you want with the correct impeller which is on the one you have. But as Scott said, some of these pumps have been rebuilt and may have different impellers including the steel version which is what most of the commercial rebuilders use and you find at the auto part stores.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The Flying Dutchman was my west coast contact. Been communicating with a Wade who quoted me prices based on cast iron versus steel impeller. I’m okay with period correct and think I will send it out to Oregon.

The car wasnt built with AC…but those holes in my firewall tells me some aftermarket unit was installed at some point. My 55 Amp alternator supports that theory. I have no intentions of reinstalling AC, hence not sure what I’m going to do with it.

I also want to deal with the power steering pump while I have the front end off. Seemed to be working during my short auto carrier trailer to my garage trip…but it at least needs clean up and paint. Are these pumps date coded and who rebuilds them?
 

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Power Steering. There is a casting date on the pump itself but thats hidden inside the reservoir. Some reservoirs were dated but I think they were for Corvettes.
Each division had their own style of pump reservoir. Make sure yours is a Pontiac for the proper year / years. Photos would be helpful.
Power steering pump is very easy to rebuild. The hardest part is getting the nut off the pulley. Just take lots of pictures of the disassembly and follow the shop manual.
Seal kits are between $14-25. Internal mechanical parts come up in ebay quite often although rarely needed.

When buying new hoses don't buy the pressure one with a metal band in the middle. Not correct in spite of what the vendors say.
A lot of owners take their original hoses to a hydraulic shop and have new hoses attached to the original fittings.
 

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I like Lee steering in the Los Angeles area. They've rebuilt several power steering gears for me. They also do pumps. Their work is among the best and the price they charge reflects that.


There are others but I have no input on them.
 

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Our club members have used Lee's and always had good luck. A couple years ago one of the employees bought out the business after Lee retired and the good work continues.

Ask to see a rebuilt pump for your car at the local parts store - not to buy but just to get a feel of how much in-and-out play is standard on the shaft. Even new (and not rebuilt) pumps have pretty clunky shafts. Main problem with old PS pumps is eventually the rubber seals dry out and start leaking. I've had friends that are rather anal about output pressures state that none of the rebuilt pumps produced high enough pressures for their liking. They say that most rebuilders just replace seals and don't bother freshening up the vanes or wear surface inside the pumps.

Most of the time just the pump is replaced and the old pump is removed from the reservoir and the new pump with the new O-rings is fitted back inside. If the old reservoir was dented up and causing leaks then it will still leak with the new pump. More expensive but the easiest is to buy a pump/reservoir assembly ready to bolt on. You just have to do a little digging and insure the new reservoir is the correct style. A '68 would still have the oval neck. There are also slight differences in the return tube on the reservoir but that would be for looks since the tube styles don't differ by much.

As Ed said, the date codes are inside the pump and no stampings on the outside. If you buy a new pump there is no core charge and you can take the old pump apart and see how they're made. I rebuilt this one and it's sitting on the shelf waiting its turn when one of the ones in use starts leaking. There are a few things on the rebuild that can cause some stress but being really attentive on how it came apart will make it go back together fairly easy.
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks guys, let me get it off and I’ll add some pics.
I‘m pretty handy and like to do jobs myself if possible. Currently have the power brake booster apart awaiting the rebuild kit. Also have the windshield wiper pump torn apart and have just got the new pump and piston and awaiting the rest via a rebuild kit. I‘ve also got the core support, radiator and hidden headlights rebuilt and ready to go.
If I choose to work on the power steering pump…any tips on getting that pulley off….and should the hoses be replaced? Of the 4 hose connections, 3 are bolt ones but the last looks like a press fit.
 

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I use a battery powered impact to loosen the pulley nut.

The return hose to the pump usually has a small clamp. Not always reused. If not there the hose should just slide off with a little effort. If replacing, just slice the hose lengthwise
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
As promised, attached are 2 pics of the power steering pump. Didn’t have any luck removing the pulley when on the car. I’ll try again on the bench once I figure out a way to hold the pulley while removing the nut. Vice maybe?
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Are you using an impact? I've found that by holding the pulley and using an impact it will come right off.
If using a ratchet you need a special pulley wrench or grind down a wrench to fit on the pulley center fitting to hold it.
DO NOT put the pulley in a vise.

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