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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
First let me say I'm looking for answers or a direction where to ask to get the answers. I'm not looking for your opinion on the idea or suggestion about buying one with the right drivetrain. And sorry if you've seen this thread on all the gto websites. We're hoping to find the person that knows the answers.


The person that is getting my M6 is doing all the work for free. It's a straight one for the other. He has a shop at his house with every tool and even a lift. He's no noob at working on cars just not familiar with the whole computer system on the car . His is an '05 with a built Level VI 4L65E and he's getting my M6 with a monster 3 from my '06. Here's the questions we need answers to.

1. Does he have to swap PCMs? Or can they be tuned respectively for their new applications?



His car (the A4) already has an aftermarket TCM from Lingenfelter.

2. Do the TCMs also have the VINs "programmed" into them?

3. If so, is he going to have to have that re-programmed as well when he installs it into my car?



He also understands he's going to have to deal with re-programming the DICs....which are also VIN-matched, as he understands it.

4. Would it just be simpler to swap every computer component from each car...PCM, BCM, TCM, DIC, etc???



I appreciate any help I can get related to getting this accomplished.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Mechanic58 is going to have a thread but at the "other" forum. Do you think a transmission place that specializes (meaning does alot of work on the GTO) in the GTO will have the answers for free or even a fee if it comes to that?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I wouldn't see why not. If he doesn't I can post it here too. Some other people are wanting to know also about what all is needed and involved to make this a 100% complete install (for both swaps) with every feature working like it came that way from down under.
 

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yea i'd like to know how this pans out cause im looking for someone to do an a4 to m6 swap. selling the car isnt an option for me so im interested in how this works out.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Before


After



Swapped PCM, TCM, DIC, PIM and BCM. Hopefully Mechanic lists everything but I thought I'd give an update. I go and pick it on Monday and Tuesday get it completely retuned for the auto. The tune on it now is for TT's and 60# injectors. I have just cam, headers, vararam, 255 pump, 72# injectors. I will be monitoring my wideband and was told by SNL that I should be ok if it stays between 12-16 cruising at highways speeds. And yes I'm not that dumb to try a WOT even just once. My dyno for the manual was 419/393 at the same shop in Feb. Hopefully the auto with a 3200 stall doesn't eat up that much.

Is asking for 400rwhp out of the question?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Mechanic got this done pretty quick considering he was working 7 12's. And only my car is complete M6 to A4. And it doesn't hurt when you have a garage the size of football field with a lift.
 

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I bet your guage cluster doesn't show the A4 gears on it.
 

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It should, I don't see why not. We'll see what he says.
When I was shopping arroud for a spare cluster to practice soldering color change LEDs I found out a few things.

1. miles ARE stored in the cluster. I would assume that the ECU or whatever would also store miles, but the cluster doesn't update itself.
2. swapping clusters will NOT throw a CEL or set of any tamper stuff.
3. the A4 cluster display has the gears on it PR1234D even when off the car. The M6 does not have these.
4. when you unplug the cluster, your trip, avg fuel, ect all are reset to zero as if you reset it
5. *assumption* since the A4 and M6 differ with displaying gears, I'm thinking that when you put it into gear or part it won't have the bid temporary display show the gear its in.
 

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He said that he replaced the DIC. I'm assuming that its the cluster. But I see what your are saying from the picture.
 

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He said that he replaced the DIC. I'm assuming that its the cluster. But I see what your are saying from the picture.
Sonuds like a personal problem. :rofl:
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Swapped everything hence why I gained over 3k miles without the car moving :) emission testing is another animal. Will require a Tech 2 but I don't live in a county that tests. He even swapped out the color face in the cluster. And I wouldn't care if it didn't show the gears really. It's an automatic. Do I really need it showing me on the cluster what gear it's in? Isn't that what the indicator by the shifter is for?



My car made 418rwhp/393rwtq with the manual. Anyone have a good guess what it'll make (N/A) with the auto w/3200stall? I fly in on Monday to pick it up and getting it tuned Tuesday evening at SNL. Curve ball thrown in, it'll be tuned for nitrous.
 

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3. the A4 cluster display has the gears on it PR1234D even when off the car. The M6 does not have these.

isnt 3rd really drive and 4th OD or did the GTO come with a 5 speed auto. Im counting 5 forward gears. Then again I've never seen the inside of an automatic GTO or the gage cluster. DANIEL O'NEIL good luck with your setup Im assuming you switched tranny's for drag racing purposes. I notice after a certain horsepower rating the automatic becomes more consistant and faster as well as long as the converter is correct----------Danfigg
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Yes I went auto for drag and I've been driving a stick car for about 3yrs and it's getting old or maybe I am. I tried with my manual at the strip but I was all over the place. I'm sure running street tires didn't help along with it being my first time ever drag racing. Plus if I ever go FI then I'd like to go auto and this A4 was built by RPM and rated at 1,000hp.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Got home this morning at 2:30am. Was well worth the drive. It put down 404.4hp @ 5700 rpm and 417.4tq @ 4650 through the A4 with 3200 stall. When I was there a few months ago with the manual it put down 418.1HP @ 6850rpm and 392.7tq @ 5100rpm. Was told the tq is higher due to the stall multipler something blah blah blah. I don't pretend to know what the hell he was talking about. Here's the funny part, he was amazed I made it to the shop with the engine still running. Here's a few things I could remember about the tune from the previous car. Keep in mind the tune was for a completely stock LS2 engine with a TT setup and 60# injectors. I have cam, headers, vararam, 72# injectors, walbro 255 and still using a MAF.


It was tuned for a 2 or 3 BAR (which is mafless), idle set to 500!!, fuel trim was not adjusted below like 2k rpm, ALL O2 sensors were turned OFF. Yes, turning the rears off is ok (unless you're with the EPA or a tree hugger) but he turned them all off even the front ones. Is there a good reason to turn the front ones off?

I have the graph if anyone really cares. It did make the HP and TQ alot earlier than it did with the manual.


Don't know if it's ok to say this but SNL Performance in Haslet, Tx is by far the best shop in Texas if not country.
 
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