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Hi Goats, I recently received a 428 block & heads from a lost friend’s wife, its been apart for decades in the corner of the garage, doesn’t look the greatest but my question is how much surface rust is too much and would it be salvageable. Here’s the codes on the block: 114979 YH date l178 29P122362
Heads # 48 dates l268 & l269
Some pics for reference
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
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Hi Goats, I recently received a 428 block & heads from a lost friend’s wife, its been apart for decades in the corner of the garage, doesn’t look the greatest but my question is how much surface rust is too much and would it be salvageable. Here’s the codes on the block: 114979 YH date l178 29P122362
Heads # 48 dates l268 & l269
Some pics for reference
Sorry screwed up the head dates
l1268 & l1278
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Heads are definitely 1969 but the YH code 428 would be 1968 block. Did you happen to note the block casting date by the distributor? One of the photos shows that the caps are not on the block and wondering if you found them? Not the end of the world if missing but will add to the build costs finding either an original donor set or a billet aftermarket set and either will require a line bore. Original caps should be 4-bolt on a YH block which would be great. 428 blocks were some of the beefiest blocks Pontiac produced and as Jim said, looks like no core shift that plagued some of the later 455's.

Not a big fan of 46 heads, but a nice set of aluminum heads would make that shortcoming go away.
[/QUOT
Dated Sept 17, 68 Mick
Thanks for the replies, so block & heads all dated from September 68, then they all would be for 69 production? or considered as 68 ? Thanks !
 

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Thanks for the replies, so block & heads all dated from September 68, then they all would be for 69 production? or considered as 68 ? Thanks !
Heads are definitely 1969 but the YH code 428 would be 1968 block. Did you happen to note the block casting date by the distributor? One of the photos shows that the caps are not on the block and wondering if you found them? Not the end of the world if missing but will add to the build costs finding either an original donor set or a billet aftermarket set and either will require a line bore. Original caps should be 4-bolt on a YH block which would be great. 428 blocks were some of the beefiest blocks Pontiac produced and as Jim said, looks like no core shift that plagued some of the later 455's.

Not a big fan of 46 heads, but a nice set of aluminum heads would make that shortcoming go away.
Heads are definitely 1969 but the YH code 428 would be 1968 block. Did you happen to note the block casting date by the distributor? One of the photos shows that the caps are not on the block and wondering if you found them? Not the end of the world if missing but will add to the build costs finding either an original donor set or a billet aftermarket set and either will require a line bore. Original caps should be 4-bolt on a YH block which would be great. 428 blocks were some of the beefiest blocks Pontiac produced and as Jim said, looks like no core shift that plagued some of the later 455's.

Not a big fan of 46 heads, but a nice set of aluminum heads would make that shortcoming go away.
Thanks Lust4 got this with it looks like 1 cap is MIA , I think the heads are #48 dist date is I178
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks for all the input, I’ll get a better look at everything tomorrow and wire brush the head numbers, couldn’t tell if it is 46 or 48. Should I wipe or spray everything with motor oil or is there something better for protection ? till I can get it to a shop. Thanks ! I’ll look at that crank too, it was laying next to the engine so I grabbed it, could be from something else. There’s another Pontiac block with attached heads but it’s been outside half buried in the ground for who knows how long, I might get a better look at it soon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Well the old goats are again correct, that crank & caps are not from that block, would they be of use to anyone ? and it’s a 1968 428 block # 9792968
& #46 heads, if I build it would 4 bolt mains be necessary or even possible on this block? Here’s a pic of the area, there are holes with short studs, can they tap those holes for bolts ?
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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
the aftermarket caps are drilled in two bolt blocks all the time.those other holes on your block are for the dowels to locate the caps. two bolts are pretty stout but if you cant find the original caps. the new caps may be the way to go.
Have the shop put in main studs then 2 bolts are good enough that's what Butler did to my 461, it's not like you're going to be spinning it above 6000 rpms...are you?
If you haven't already go on Butler's site under the tech tab where they have all kinds of charts for cubic inch combos and compression calculators, motor identification, they have all the rotating assemblies you could imagine. It's fun to dream what you could do but make sure you're sitting down because they ain't cheap but they're probably the best in the land.
Thanks for the info, I’ll use that crank for a boat anchor, just got done cleaning the block & heads & sprayed it inside and out with mystery oil & trans fluid, looks really good and didn’t see any glaring issues. Two bolts are enough for me so I’ll be looking into everything else soon as well as all the great posts about engines on this great forum !!
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Now would be the time to take a rough bore measurement since many of the blocks this old are on their second or third life. Stock bore is 4.120".

If you can, find a shop that will "shake-and-bake" the block for cleaning. This entails the block being heated up to around 450° and then tumbled in steel shot to get it squeaky clean. I use a particular shop just for this cleaning process and magnafluxing, and then use another for the actual machine work. We have a shop locally that has the old fashion hot tank still in business from the 50's and while I admire the effort it took to keep it active with all of our state's EPA insanity, it still doesn't produce the results of baking a block to rid it of paint, grease, and calcium buildup. The crank photo I pictured above was with the old hot tank method and even after an additional hour or so of cleaning after I got it home there is still rust and paint on the block. Here is a photo of a block back from the shake-and-bake but prior to my scrubbing it down. It sat out in someone's back yard for years before I rescued it and had its fair share of rust and gunk.
View attachment 161145

Pull out all the gallery plugs if you can or pay the shop to do it before the cleaning process and also have them remove the cam bearings. Unless you have the proper tool, don't hammer them out - very easy to damage the block by chisel gouges. If it passes magnafluxing, then have the shop pull all your main cap dowel pins. Those remaining in your block have been driven down almost flush and need to come out. Shops have a special tool as long as there is enough sticking up to get the tool to bite into the dowel, otherwise they will weld on a bolt to the dowel to get pull out.
Great information, I’ve never heard of the shake n bake before but I’m going to look into it around here, everybody I knew “hot tanked “ them but I’m talking about back in the day. Your block looks great like new ! Hopefully this one hasn’t been punched out too many times, I’ll get a measurement before anything else, how big is too far gone? Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
To me, looking at the tops of the cylinders, it looks like it has never been punched out. Looks like a virgin std. bore block to me. I always try to go as little as possible oversize. .020" or .030". .060" oversize for this era of Pontiac block is about the limit. I like the idea of someone long after I'm gone being able to rebuild my engines again and enjoy them in the future decades from now. And not do an LS swap. LOL...
I pulled out the old dial caliper and took a couple measurements, looks like 4.13 ish, so probably pretty good still, and the caliper may read a fraction much as when it’s closed it reads + 1 tick, let me know what you think, also got a old edelbrock pontiac torker # 2720 intake, what do you think of the combination 69 428, 69 #46 heads & this intake ? My intention: old man with cool ass GTO, cruising around town, sounding awesome doing the very occasional burnout, no racing but I do like it when the passenger has to “try” to reach the grab bar!!
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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
I'm no expert but I don't think that's the best choice of an intake for what your intentions are...going to hurt the low end. I think that manifold is rated for 3000- 7000rpms without checking and is pretty tall so hood clearance could be a problem depending on the air cleaner. I'm running a Performer RPM with a 1/2" phenolic spacer on my 461. Just my thoughts.
Thanks for the reply, I have my stock 66 4 bbl & tripower so I’m good on intakes, that edelbrock was just part of the pile of stuff
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Your block number is the same as my 428-9792968 which is at the machine shop in progress. The engine code on mine is XF. Mine has the 4 bolt main caps, so I assume you can adapt to the 4 bolt main set up. I don't know what the criteria was for 4 bolt vs 2 bolt?
Mine is YH and is a 2 bolt main, for my basic plan of a mild build most advice I’m getting is to leave it as is unless you’re going for 500+ hp & 6000 rpm or more. Just gonna be a street engine. 👍
 
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