I dont know if anyone mentioned it yet, but just use a bronze bushing and be done with it. They work fine and arent subject to the mechanical failures of needle bearings.
And FYI, Silver Sport is no longer the awesome company that everyone loves. They're now owned by a New Jersey attorney, and it shows in their ethics.Check bearing OD also. While I love Silver Sport to death they did send me the wrong bearing in my kit.
Since the bearing should measure 1.3780 as stated above, the crank hole should be slightly smaller in the range of 1.3778-1.3779 or so. If the fit is close but too tight I'd polish up the crank hole by hand with a Scotch Brite pad.
If i can get confirmation that a bushing will work for the Tremec box, I'll do that for sure. There seems to be an opinion that they require a bearing.I dont know if anyone mentioned it yet, but just use a bronze bushing and be done with it. They work fine and arent subject to the mechanical failures of needle bearings.
That's a relief, I did a bit more internet digging today and found someone chiming in from when SST was Kiesler saying that the bushings were a suitable alternative. The oil impregnated bronze seems like a good way to go there.Yes a bushing will work... I had a similar issue and although I prefer bearings, I was more comfortable using the bushing. And for the record, I dont baby it.
Simply go to this thread and it lists the bushing that I used
FAQ - Powetrain: TREMEC TKX - Automatic to Manual ConversionThis is my final write up for the swap. It's NOT ANY CHEAPER to install a Muncie than a Tremec (if you're converting from an auto).. in fact, it's more expensive. A quality Muncie rebuild is going to cost over $2500, and then you have to buy a Hurst Competition Plus Shifter, linkage, doghouse...www.gtoforum.com
from your measurements it must not have been machined. but your right to check it more closely. i would think though calipers could get you closer than .040 . if you can get it straight in the hole. don't hurt to be cautious.so far it looks like the bronze bushing is the way to go.Divider calipers showed up yesterday, and I have a telescopic snap gauge coming too. The bore is almost dead on 34mm as close as I can tell without a micrometer. My Vernier calipers have a digital readout that goes to the hundredths, just need a new battery there. the bearing is stock sized 1.38 inches or 35mm. 1mm is 0.04 inches, so I'm about 40x what you could expect to press in. I'll measure about 100 more times before I get anything cut.
You don't want to get a new crank, the stock one is a strong piece. So forget that idea.Well, thankfully SST just called me back. They concurred that there's no problem with using a bronze bushing, so that's a relief. I'll be measuring the hole with divider calipers and telescoping gauge and talking with a local machinist to get it just right. Thanks for all of the input.
I don't know if I trust myself with the drill lathe approach, but I did order 3 bronze bushings and could always get more for cheap now that I know the part number.You don't want to get a new crank, the stock one is a strong piece. So forget that idea.
I had the same experience with a previous 400 build. I used a bolt that fit through the brinze bushing hole, used a washer/nut to tighten it up, chucked it into my drill, and spun it on a fine flat file (must be at least the width of the bushing to get an even surface). Suppose you could also use sandpaper on a flat surface.
A little milling, and a little fitting. Took off "enough", but not to where it was loose. Did not use a caliper, but that would be the way to go in measuring the amount removed. Worked fine and no issues.
You will want to check the depth once the bushing is in. The input shaft on the trans has the alignment pin that goes into the bushing. Measure it for length and then the edged of the bushing to the inside machined hole in the crank. You should have enough depth that the trans input shaft end will not bottom out - or you will be jamming the input shaft into the crank and you won't like the results.
I love it when I know what Im talking about. It's like winning on a scratch off... rare, indeed.They concurred that there's no problem with using a bronze bushing, so that's a relief.
"Improperly aligned bell housing, transmission, or too long a pilot shaft can cause the main thrust bearing to fail. This alignment must be checked and corrected with offset dowel pins if necessary. If the pilot shaft “bottoms” in the crankshaft, the pilot shaft must be shortened. Thrust bearing failure is also caused by improperly shimmed or defective torque converters."I don't know if I trust myself with the drill lathe approach, but I did order 3 bronze bushings and could always get more for cheap now that I know the part number.
Good tip on watching how deep everything goes; I don't think the install instructions contemplate any depth issues, but with the bellhousing mocked up, that will be an easy measurement to take
i was a machinist. you want repeatability when measuring so the feel of resistance has to be the same when using snap gauges or dividers. it will take practice and patience to get it. practice on something and try to get the same dimensions its a delicate touch that is needed for accuracy. a micrometer is best but calipers can be used.I have down to hundredths of a mm, or .0004 inch on my caliper, but I don’t know if my technique with the dividers and snap gauge is that precise. Would love to have a machinist take the measurements, but the engine is still in the car. Still need to track one down and get his take.