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Discussion Starter #1
When I had upgrades to my engine (2005 6m) made I also had the transmission upgraded for 650 hp, which is way more than what the car puts out. When driving around town, shifts are precise, though stiffer than stock. However, when I try to shift at high rpm (4500-5000) I can't get it out of either 2nd or 3rd. Is this caused by the shifter (B&M) or could it be a defective transmission rebuild? My problem is the tuner who did all the work sold out to another and the new tuner doesn't have record of which transmission shop did the work. Otherwise I could take it back and try to get it taken care of under warranty.
I've read where B&M is not the most regarded shifter for these cars but at normal driving speeds it seems to work fine. Anyone ever upgrade their trannies and experience this problem? Thanks for any input.
 

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What clutch do you have?
Was going to ask the same thing. And OP did you have a new clutch installed with your trans rebuild?

Sounds like the clutch isn't fully disengaging, assuming everything is correct inside the transmission. You may need to shim the clutch (if it's new). Or if it's old clutch setup, it's possible your slave is going bad or your pilot/release bearing is going bad.

Not sure about the B&M causing it. i don't have any experience with that.


Side note:
Just recently I had my trans rebuilt. New blocker ring kit (everything but the actual syncro assemblies was replaced) along with billet 3/4 keys and springs. Also had a new Monster level 2 clutch installed when they put the trans back. Everything shifts fine at high rpm. I can even Power Shift (no lift shift) every gear with the stock shifter and it goes to the next gear like butter at 6500. So something is up with either your Trans rebuild or Clutch setup.
 

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It isn't the B&M. B&Ms just snap off and/or leak but function OK for shifting. Every shifter is a freely pivoting ball on the other end of the stick. All the gates and such are in the transmission. High RPM lock-outs are almost always the clutch
 

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Discussion Starter #5
It is a Spec Twin disc clutch. I had this installed when the first round of upgrades were done (LT headers, suspension and tune) about a year before the engine rebuild was done. It would always have a whirring noise when I pushed the clutch pedal before shifting but since it worked (till now) I just thought it was just another noise associated with these engines when you start modifying them. Could that be a throw out bearing issue?
 

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I would be willing to bet whoever installed the clutch took no measurements to see if slave shimming was needed. The noise could be the TOB but I doubt that's causing the lockout unless it got a lot louder. For fun put your car in gear on a flat surface, push the clutch pedal in and with your foot off of the brakes rev it a few times. If the car attempts to move at all you have a disengagement issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Car is at a mechanic shop nearby. They said whoever rebuilt the transmission didn't put a plate on top of it that's supposed to be there so maybe that's my issue. Said clutch looked barely worn. I will call and tell them about checking to see if it needs shimming. Now I'm afraid my B&M shifter may not work as well but I'm not familiar at all with what kind of plate he's talking about. I'll look at some pictures and see. Also my brand new steering rack was leaking; cause seems to be header pipe is right next to a seal putting out a lot of heat on it and also my steering shaft is rubbing against the header so fix is to insulate the part close by the rack and dimple the header where it's being rubbed. I've read somewhere that the steering shaft can actually be moved sideways a bit? Is this true? Thanks for your help and advice!
 

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I hope they know what they're doing. It seems a lot don't know how to measure for a shim. I'm curious what "plate" they're talking about. The B&M as I said works OK but it's prone to leaking and breaking
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I hope so too; haven't had the best of luck with tuners/mechanics with this car. 2nd tuner damaged engine mount and oil filter when they put the engine back in the car but didn't tell me. This guy knew about shimming and had already checked for that as to probable cause for lockup. Looking more and more like sloppy installation of the shifter; I had experienced a loud rattle on the right side of the console when accelerating hard and turns out something was very loose. 2 bolt holes needed to be retapped. He said it was a mess so won't know until the car's back on the road and tested. Rear end was leaking but turns out it was a gasket so easy fix there. Hope it holds up; don't want to happen what happened to you, Svede. Ziggy should be fairly bulletproof by now.
 

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I don't trust a one of them, period. What I didn't know how to fix I learned and I'm happy I did. If it screws up I know who to blame and how to fix it. BTW the B&M only uses 2 bolts to hold the shifter on and is why they are prone to leaking. All the others use 4 bolts. The breakage problem is the little ball on the end that goes into the transmission cup snaps off.
 
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