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First post here, just got my 64 back on the road after collision repairs to the rear end. I picked up this car at auction. And I love my car as it has been a long dream to own one.

Thought I would post for any insights before I go fully down the rabbit hole.

Both left and right turn signals work when the car is off and the key is turned to the left in the accessory position. They work in all combinations with lights on and off and brake pedal depressed or not. All good.

Turn the car on. Both signals work with lights on and off WITHOUT the brake pedal depressed. When I depress the brake, the left turn signal blows the fuse. The right one works fine. Brake alone does not blow the fuse.

So long story short, left turn signal with brake depressed blows the fuse with the car on.

I've done some very basic trouble shooting such as checking the tail light wiring and changing bulbs. I've read through the other threads on trouble shooting process but wanted to see if anybody had any other suggestions before I go through all of that.

Thanks
 

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I have the same issue with my '66 Tempest convertible as 707hp has with his '64 GTO, but the fuse blows when I use either turn signal when I depress the brake. Any insights would be helpful.

I did install a new (more modern?) turn signal flasher earlier this year. Could a newer signal flasher pull more amps than the older ones? The original fuse block call for a 15A fuse to service the turn signals and brake lights together, and I've tried a 20 Amp fuse, and it still blows that size, too.
 

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First post here, just got my 64 back on the road after collision repairs to the rear end. I picked up this car at auction. And I love my car as it has been a long dream to own one.

Thought I would post for any insights before I go fully down the rabbit hole.

Both left and right turn signals work when the car is off and the key is turned to the left in the accessory position. They work in all combinations with lights on and off and brake pedal depressed or not. All good.

Turn the car on. Both signals work with lights on and off WITHOUT the brake pedal depressed. When I depress the brake, the left turn signal blows the fuse. The right one works fine. Brake alone does not blow the fuse.

So long story short, left turn signal with brake depressed blows the fuse with the car on.

I've done some very basic trouble shooting such as checking the tail light wiring and changing bulbs. I've read through the other threads on trouble shooting process but wanted to see if anybody had any other suggestions before I go through all of that.

Thanks
I had a similar problem with my 65. I had replaced the turn signal switch mechanism and the signals worked fine until I applied the brakes, it would then blow the fuse. What I found is that the turn signal indicator arm, which is made of metal, was shorting out across the two wires in the switch. It apparently crushes the plastic enough when the screw is tightened. See attached photos. I used tape to insulate the metal from the wires and no more problems. You did mention that this happened after a colision repair, so check for pinched wires and check the filament in the 1157 bulbs. I have seen one filament break and short out to the second one.
 

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also try pulling the bulbs out of the back and if it still blows
I would head to the column
if it doesnt blow sumthins up out back....
 

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I had a similar problem with my 65. I had replaced the turn signal switch mechanism and the signals worked fine until I applied the brakes, it would then blow the fuse. What I found is that the turn signal indicator arm, which is made of metal, was shorting out across the two wires in the switch. It apparently crushes the plastic enough when the screw is tightened. See attached photos. I used tape to insulate the metal from the wires and no more problems. You did mention that this happened after a colision repair, so check for pinched wires and check the filament in the 1157 bulbs. I have seen one filament break and short out to the second one.
Did you check your brake switch? It was giving me all kinds of similar issues.
 

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Did you check your brake switch? It was giving me all kinds of similar issues.
Yes, I checked, then replaced the brake switch, but the problem definitely was the turn signal switch, as that made no difference. I believe the plastic the reproduction uses is not as strong as the original and crushes when the screw that holds the turn signal arm is tightened, creating a short. I couldn't believe it myself and did repeated test to confirm. The failure of and difficulty in fitting reproduction parts has been one of the most challenging in the restoration. It's really a shame that the aftermarket suppliers allow so many sub-par parts to be sold. There was a time when you replaced a part, you were done and could eliminate that from the overall issue, but that's no longer true. I had a new reproduction Delco headlight switch fail right out of the box. NPD didn't even question it, nor have me return it, they just sent me another new one, which fortunately worked. This tells me that they have so many failures that they often don't bother with returning the failed parts. This is really sad for our hobby and frustration for us trying to keep these cars alive for the next generation.
 

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I had a new reproduction Delco headlight switch fail right out of the box. NPD didn't even question it, nor have me return it, they just sent me another new one, which fortunately worked. This tells me that they have so many failures that they often don't bother with returning the failed parts. This is really sad for our hobby and frustration for us trying to keep these cars alive for the next generation.
In all honesty and due respect, that is not the truth whatsoever.. Failures out of the box like that are extremely rare. And when they do happen, our priority is to take care of our customer as quickly as possible, and not fiddle around with the delays and expense of getting the part back from you, all over a $29 retail switch. It's more expedient and prudent to 1. Trust the customer, 2. toss the bad switch in the garbage, 3. get you a replacement a.s.a.p..

And FWIW, our AC Delco switches are genuine AC Delco, not reproductions. And with AC Delco, it's not like you can take a defective switch, send it back to them, and they open up an investigation as to why it was faulty... They don't take electrical components back, and there's no one to call to complain. It's no different than GM, or FoMoCo, or Mopar.

Rick
NPD
 

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In all honesty and due respect, that is not the truth whatsoever.. Failures out of the box like that are extremely rare. And when they do happen, our priority is to take care of our customer as quickly as possible, and not fiddle around with the delays and expense of getting the part back from you, all over a $29 retail switch. It's more expedient and prudent to 1. Trust the customer, 2. toss the bad switch in the garbage, 3. get you a replacement a.s.a.p..

And FWIW, our AC Delco switches are genuine AC Delco, not reproductions. And with AC Delco, it's not like you can take a defective switch, send it back to them, and they open up an investigation as to why it was faulty... They don't take electrical components back, and there's no one to call to complain. It's no different than GM, or FoMoCo, or Mopar.

Rick
NPD
Rick,
I am not slamming NPD. Your team was great in replacing parts and had the new switch to me the next day. I was unaware of your return price policy and that's great. I had a power steering pump fail and your team in the Ventura store replaced it as well. I know, having worked in manufacturing and working with overseas suppliers that's it's difficult to impossible to maintain 100% quality of products, but I believe that no one would argue that the overall quality of the reproduction parts is less than ideal. I had several reproduction parts purchased both at NPD and Ames that simply would not work and were returned or thrown in the trash. Regarding Delco parts, good to know you get them directly from the supplier, but I can only guess they come from overseas too. In 2003, I purchased a new Corvette and had it for 12 years, selling it only because so many of the parts failed. Not high tech parts, but things like headlight motors, power window and door lock controls, shocks and spark plugs, yes I said spark plugs. They were defective from the factory. The car had less than 25,000 miles when I sold it. I will personally never purchase another new GM product of any kind as a result, so I guess it's no great surprise (to me) that the Delco headlight switch failed.
 
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