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Well, the car has been at the body shop since november and finally I will be able to bring her back home at the end of this week!!! :party:
She was stripped to bare metal to reveal a few dents, dings and bondo here and there. The worst being the rear quarters. Had the outer wheel wells and both quarters replaced, truk got a few patch panels, body is worked smooth now, and my body guy will put her in epoxy primer. My plan is to 2K prime it, block it and paint it myself (going with SPI products epoxy, primer, base and clear). Then when she's pretty from the outside it will be time to get to work on the heart of the machine. Plans are for a 461 stroker with Tremec TKO 5 speed trans, probably gonna stay with the 10 bolt rear until she can't hold up, then upgrade that. Last but not least will be the interior. Hoping on getting her completely done by the fall if moneys allow it. Heres a couple pics, I planning on keeping up to date with pics and progress as I go along. Hope you enjoy!
 

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Well, finally got the GTO back from body work on Saturday March 3rd in epoxy primer. Went ahead and set up paint booth in my garage and got some regular 2K primer on her on Sunday the 4th. Sanded a little sunday afternoon and a little tonite. Will have her blocked out tomorrow night and will put more primer on probably thursday night. Not looking too bad I don't think.
 

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(Cars, boobs, beer) Josh I see you have your priority's in order. Hope you get her done in time for summer fun!!!!!!!!!!!.. Les
 

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i'm thinking of buying 65 gto no motor or trans for $2500 .is that a good price ?
has rust on roof rails fenders, floor ,
I think so...........I suppose it depends on how involved the rust repair would be (and if you can do it yourself), is it surface rust or rust through requiring replacement of fenders, floor, roof rails ect....? What I can tell you is that I paid $6500 for mine and i made the deal having to give back the motor/tranny to the owner (he rebuilt and and was in love with it and it was the only way I could pry the car from his fingers). I could have left the body alone and enjoyed it but..........I decided to have the body done. The body work I had done.....replacement of both rear quarters, outer wheel wells, trunk pan patches, the trunk lip that holds the weather stripping replaced, patches on the inner wheel wells, trunk supports above the gas tank replaced, door hinges replaced, couple of patches in the doors, complete paint strip, re-working of the entire car body and put in epoxy primer, that ran me 8K.
I realize with this being a clone, when Im all said and done I will have more in it than its worth but Im totally okay with that as this car is the holy grail of cars for me and plan on having it for the remainder of my years (Im 36 y/o) so in the end if I make it another say 40 years enjoying this car it will average about 600 dollars a year. thats only $50/month!!!!! :lol: Well worth the money as far as Im concerned.
 

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I got what I hope to be the final round of 2K primer on her today. Will be sanding it off tomorrow.

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Nice project, looks like its coming along good. Too bad you had to give the drivetrain back, but nice score!
Yeah, buts its the only way I could get the car (have had my eye on this car since I was in high school). One thing that does make me feel good about it is the 400 thats in it now leaks like crazy! oil, coolant, and the tranny leaks as well, both would need tore down and re-built anyhow. Im looking to go with a 461 stroker and tremec 5 speed when I get the paint done.
 

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I think so...........I suppose it depends on how involved the rust repair would be (and if you can do it yourself), is it surface rust or rust through requiring replacement of fenders, floor, roof rails ect....? What I can tell you is that I paid $6500 for mine and i made the deal having to give back the motor/tranny to the owner (he rebuilt and and was in love with it and it was the only way I could pry the car from his fingers). I could have left the body alone and enjoyed it but..........I decided to have the body done. The body work I had done.....replacement of both rear quarters, outer wheel wells, trunk pan patches, the trunk lip that holds the weather stripping replaced, patches on the inner wheel wells, trunk supports above the gas tank replaced, door hinges replaced, couple of patches in the doors, complete paint strip, re-working of the entire car body and put in epoxy primer, that ran me 8K.
I realize with this being a clone, when Im all said and done I will have more in it than its worth but Im totally okay with that as this car is the holy grail of cars for me and plan on having it for the remainder of my years (Im 36 y/o) so in the end if I make it another say 40 years enjoying this car it will average about 600 dollars a year. thats only $50/month!!!!! :lol: Well worth the money as far as Im concerned.
I like your monthly payment breakdown! I'm only 29 and it makes me feel a lot better about the mass of cash I'm dumping now! Great looking project!
 

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I like your monthly payment breakdown! I'm only 29 and it makes me feel a lot better about the mass of cash I'm dumping now! Great looking project!
Yeah, makes it a little easier to justify the cost to myself, let alone my wife. Although I haven't let her in on my financial breakdown as of yet.

Got the last round of blocking done and some pics after I washed it off. Got a paint booth rented for next Tuesday, gonna lay some color!

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very nice....yep you know your done wet sanding when your primer shines like a finish coat....i rented a booth too, best 200.00 i ever spent, recommend anyone wanting to take on paint find one to rent and get as much dust out of the equation as possible, whats the final color gonna be?
 

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very nice....yep you know your done wet sanding when your primer shines like a finish coat....i rented a booth too, best 200.00 i ever spent, recommend anyone wanting to take on paint find one to rent and get as much dust out of the equation as possible, whats the final color gonna be?
Yeah, I thought about trying to pull the entire paint job off in my garage but I imagine I would not have been happy. Booth here in lincoln $150 for the day, totally agree that its gonna be worth every penny. Although Im going to spray color/clear on the door jams, bottom side of trunk and under the hood the inside of the fenders (not the wheel wells) in the garage this weekend. That way at the booth I won't have to open it all up just be able to spray the body and be done.

Went back and forth on color but settled on a nice bright red, its a southern polyurethanes red base that I'm using. Its a really nice red, no orange or purple hues just a nice looking red. Cant wait to see her in full color!!!!!

I will be sure to post some pics
 

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I did the same thing, sprayed jambs and hidden stuff in the shop then feathered the clear in the jambs at the beginning of each coat in the booth. Took around 7 hrs to get 3 coats base and 4 of clear down on the body. Make sure you have enough paint on hand, i will have to look back and see how many oz's per coat, i know me and bear figured it out before he shot his. want to say it was around 85 reduced per coat
 

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Exactly what I'm planning is 3 of base and 4 of clear. 85 oz per coat would be right at 2 gallon. Ive got i gallon of base that I reduce 1:1 so end up with 2 sprayable gallon. Perhaps I should get an extra quart just to be on the safe side. Lord knows it would be a bad day to run out of paint with no options in a rented paint booth and plenty of clear to go on. The clear I should be good on, I ordered and extra gallon of that. Im hoping my expericence with painting goes as well as yours did! Just got to remember to be patient and take my time. I suffer from a condition called "instant gratification" and tend lose focus because it done NOW!!!!
 

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... i will have to look back and see how many oz's per coat, i know me and bear figured it out before he shot his. want to say it was around 85 reduced per coat
I used "Kevin's Rule of Sevens": 7 ozs of mixed/reduced/ready-to-spray material per coat, per panel. For me that was 10 panels (hood, roof, trunk, 2 fenders, 2 doors, 2 quarters, bumper+valance) times 3 coats of base (10 * 7 * 3 = 210 ozs) plus 4 coats of clear (10 * 7 * 4 = 280 ozs). It worked out pretty close.

Bear
 

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yep i cut it close with about a cup of base left, i would grab the extra quart and that way you have some original mix in case you ever need touch up. First coat is the worse, just relax and start in an area that will not be noticable to get your speed and flow right. There is a pattern that you will want to spray also so you are overlapping coats in different areas, i will dig up the prep procedures that a buddy who does body/paint sent me.

ok its a bit long but GREAT INFO for first timers....:cheers

No sweat, man. Once you're masked up....

Show up with a box of paint prep wipes (good paper towels)

Moisten a couple wipes with water and kinda "dust mop" the car to remove dust.

Put on gloves. Keep fresh latex or nitrile gloves on the whole time.

Degrease the car with wax n grease remover. Get it wet, wipe it dry.

Put your can of color on the paint shaker and let er rip. Put on a cheapo paint suit preferrably with hood. Or wear a ball cap.

Unfold a fresh tack cloth all the way then ball it up loosely and grab your blow gun. Turn the booth on.

Tack and blow the car off simultaneously. Use medium-low air pressure and be thorough around gaps. Don't mash on the tack rag. Tack the masking also. This should take like two or three minutes.

Booth off. Grab your color off the shaker. Open and stir with a stick. Scrape the bottom of the can and be sure theres no clumps there. Shake more if so.

Show up with two empty gallon paint cans from the paint store. Or a couple old plastic pitchers.

Set your freshly cleaned gun in the gun stand in your mixing area. Pop the lid and put a paper strainer on top.

Show up with four or five paint sticks marked off in numbered half inch increments with a pencil or permanent marker.

Chunk one of them in an empty can. Set the lid back on your color and tap one side down. Hold the lid down and pour your color.

Mix one coat's worth of color (best guess how much, err on the too much side). Second coat you'll know how much to mix if u pay attention.

Hit your mixing ratio exactly every time. No buts. Mix up your reducer and color now. Stir twice as long as you think you need to.

Get it into the gun and don't make a mess. Booth on for good. Cork it and go to the Temptress.

Stand by the exhaust fan and gently blow yourself off with low pressure air. You are ecstatic but loose, not nervous. Stretch, breathe. Concentrate. Respirator on.

Check your gun pattern on the masking someplace. Make it do what you want. Wide fan, but even top to bottom. Not too dry, not too wet.

Practice the roof right before u spray first blue. Will you make it in one sweep front to rear or will you have to move the stool and make two sweeps per side? Gotta keep the gun pointed straight at the panel without touching the car for support!

Its gonna be over before you know it. Go to work.

Roof first, one side then the other. Deck n rearend same way. Then quarters and work your way forward, ending with the hood.

50% overlap on color. Medium wet coats. Medium pressure. Medium gun distance and speed. Take your time.

Stagger the start/stops of each coat down the side. For example, spraying the quarter beginning at rear, on first coat , go top to bottom (carry that wet edge down) and use the back of the wheel opening as your landmark. Next, just the area over the well. Next, well to door handle and so on. Second coat, go from bumper to middle of well, then from there to the door gap. Thats what I mean by stagger the start/stops. Gives you a better chance at even coverage.

...and don't flip the gun at the end of your strokes. Trigger off with gun moving.

Get all your coats down. Hopefully you used the slowest reducer available, or the next one down. Let flash thoroughly. It should have no texture to speak of and no loose overspray.

Dab gently with tack rag when dry if some trash is laying on the paint, but don't tack the whole car.

Thoroughly clean the gun. Remove nozzle if possible and flush.

Same way on mixing clear. Get out your other empty can and marked stick. Mix enough for one coat. Set up for easy refills. May take more than the color did.

Everything is more on the clear, but none to the extreme. Overlap your last pass by 2/3rds instead of half. Little air pressure bump. Go faster, hold gun closer. Do not tilt gun. Let the reducer do it's job and don't overwet at start/stops. Hit it hard, dump it on and keep moving. Be a robot and don't look back. Don't drown it because it WILL run. When the wettest spot on your masking is sticky or stringy, you're ready for the next coat. Don't drag a hose or pant leg in it!

Dang, I gave you the whole shootin match, ha ha! Make notes or a list for yourself. That was a whole walkthrough, you know how I can be. Count on being rattled by some condition or other, and needing your checklist. I wish you a drama free spray day. If I was there I would refill your cup for ya and stand by the fan being a fan myself plus permagrin the whole time because you are pretty much painting my dream car. Yeah I'd do a few things different of course, but as a whole the car is a over the fence home run to me. The model, color, engine, air cleaner....man oh man. My Dad would crap a moon rock right on the seat. When he bought his Sprint6, he started up a 389 and it scared him because it tilted the fenders so hard when he blipped it, lol.

Any more Qs? I'll try to provide straight As.
 
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