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Discussion Starter #1
Forum friends....Here are some pics of my frame with the fuel and brake lines routed. I found that I come up with a lot of questions where a simple photo would help when the diagrams from the manuals and the Zazzarine book are too small or not clear enough. Hope this helps someone in the future...I threw in an extra pic of a cool DPD car. No charge for that one....










 

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Very nice job, the only suggestion I would make would be to keep the fuel line inside of the frame and have it exit at the front of the cross member just below the fuel pump. The fuel line currently will be within an inch of the exhaust manifold and you may have "vapor lock" problems.

Keep the pictures coming,
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Dammit! Thanks very much for catching that. Randy.....I knew it didn't look quite right. I should have known they didn't just give me some extra tube to trim as needed!
 

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Also, the brake line at the front cross member needs to be against the crossmember, not free-floating. Great looking frame and lines, though. Nice job!!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks GTOguy....When you say "against the crossmember and not free-floating", does that mean the part by the white arrow should be against the cross member like the red line? Just in that place or other places too? Thanks again for the help, all. Any suggestions how to bend it properly?

 

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Discussion Starter #8
What I learned today:

  • The fuel like goes THROUGH the cross member and comes out in front.
  • You should post pictures of your frame and lines for your friends to check out BEFORE you put the body back on the frame.
  • If you fail to do the above, the fuel line CAN be correctly routed from under the car but it takes some patience and you must drop the cross member.....
  • It's much more pleasant to work under a car in August with a freshly painted frame and floor than it is to work on a rusty and dirty car in January in Detroit.


Thanks again for the help! I straightened out a wire coat hanger and put that through the cross member to help route the fuel line through. Worked like a charm.
 

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Widetrack, it goes against the crossmember, but at the back. Not on top of it where your line is. Just behind it. At least mine does. Also, at the front....the brake line lays right on the crossmember, right against it. No floating out in space. As for bending, when I burnt a hole in mine 25 years ago against a header, I just went to the wrecking yard and pulled one off another '65, flushed it out and bolted it on. Ahhhh California rust free living!! (bending lines can be a real PITA...you've done really well, IMO........)
 

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Thanks for posting all the pics WideTrack. I'm about a month from starting the reassembly process on my 65, so this will really come in handy. Great tips from everyone!
 

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Wide Track, nice job on the frame and lines. I noticed the the E brake cable and distance from cross member Is your car a 4 SPD or Auto? I have two lengths of secondary cable and read somewhere that cables are different for either transmission. I have an Auto trans and am not sure which to use on my 65. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #12
OG, that's a good question. Currently the cable is not being held by the hook that hooks into the cross member hole. I just found that particular part in my bin and have to blast and spray it. I'll take another picture when I get that done. In the photos I'm just using a disc brake part to hold it out of the way. I can't remember where I purchased the new cable but my car is a 2-speed powerglide trans. I can't remember if they asked for the type of trans. I'll have to keep an eye out when I put it back together. Hopefully between the cross member hook at the two hooks on either side of the floor pan, the cable will be out of the way of the trans and u-joints. Is there something else I should look for? The cable seems like it's about the right tension with just the right amount of adjustment available with the adjuster nuts at the junction point of the cables.

Also...Since you also have an auto trans...how does the kickdown switch hook up???? I can't find it in any manuals or the Zazzerine book. I assume the switch goes under the accelerator pedal linkage but how and where does it hook up or wire up from there? I have the switch that came in a pile of parts with the car but am clueless as to how it interacts with the accelerator pedal, carb and trans. Have any pics????
 

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WideTrack; when I got my 65 convertible it came in a bunch of torn boxes that filled three pickup trucks along with the body. Therefore all of my small parts were missing. I did not have any original parts for the kick down from my 2 SPD ST300 set up, not sure how that was originally configured, does someone out there know? I decided not to go with the original trans and installed a Turbo 400. I used a kick down switch and bracket for the 400 that was commonly used in 67 GTOs. This was a direct bolt in under the accelerator bell crank with no modifications. Power comes from the fuse box, through the switch and plugs onto the spade connector on the trans Not sure if my pictures will help with your set up, but I can try sending. Let me know. As for the ebrake cable I am not sure what I can add, now that I know that yours is an automatic car I will try to copy your setup. Thanks
 

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WideTrack; sorry but my mother board went on my old laptop. All my pictures are on the hard drive. I switched to Apple but had to order some hardware to down load the pictures and am just waiting for the hardware, I should get it sometime next week. Sorry for the delay I will send out my kick down pictures as soon as possible. Thanks,
 
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