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Al there is no difference in the performance of any of theses distributors. Curving it later for optimum performance will be all you need later. But get it together first.

if you have a rusty plate or weights or screws. Get some “Evaporust” from an auto parts or hardware store. Throw the small parts in a coffee can and pour in the liquid covering them. Leave it overnight. It will take the rust off. Evaporust just binds with molecules of Iron oxide…which is rust and turns it to liquid.
 

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Oh almost forgot get a new new B26 vacumn can. Those work best on most builds. It is the can that I use the most. And it will allow you get the optimum curve later.

Standard Motor Parts # SMP VC 181
O’Reilly Auto Parts # BWD V375
NAPA part # VC 1808
Niehoff Part # DR 320

this is all the same vacumn can made by Standard Motor Parts, but each Distributor puts on their own number. You need one, depends where you shop what number to use.

Here is Rock auto for it

 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Al there is no difference in the performance of any of theses distributors. Curving it later for optimum performance will be all you need later. But get it together first.

if you have a rusty plate or weights or screws. Get some “Evaporust” from an auto parts or hardware store. Throw the small parts in a coffee can and pour in the liquid covering them. Leave it overnight. It will take the rust off. Evaporust just binds with molecules of Iron oxide…which is rust and turns it to liquid.
Man I've tried EVERYTHING on rust and never had much luck. Never tried evaporust though.
Think that stuff work on intakes??
I've got 2 tripower Pontiac intakes and a 70 4 barrel intake that have rust inside.
The intake for my car is all set but I've got these besides.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Oh almost forgot get a new new B26 vacumn can. Those work best on most builds. It is the can that I use the most. And it will allow you get the optimum curve later.

Standard Motor Parts # SMP VC 181
O’Reilly Auto Parts # BWD V375
NAPA part # VC 1808
Niehoff Part # DR 320

this is all the same vacumn can made by Standard Motor Parts, but each Distributor puts on their own number. You need one, depends where you shop what number to use.

Here is Rock auto for it

Does/is the vacuum canister going to matter as far as originality?
I mean through the eyes of a perspective buyer ?? Tough question to answer i guess
Buyers ALL have different quirks. Lol
 

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No the only differences is internal, when it pulls vacumn and how much, they all look the same from the outside
 

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It will work on intakes, you may need some big bottles of it, which they sell. Get a plastic tub and set the intake in it and cover it up with Evaporust. Evaporust is reusable, just pour it back in the bottle with a funnel. It can be used multiple times.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
You guys recommend a certain brand/type of exhaust system for a 66 with a tripower?
Again here trying to stay correct.
I need manifolds and all the way to the back. Full exhaust system
 

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Lot’s of views on this..I use the Ram. Air HO manifolds and two manga flow straight through mufflers and two manga flow resonators…work great
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Lot’s of views on this..I use the Ram. Air HO manifolds and two manga flow straight through mufflers and two manga flow resonators…work great
I just saw those but isn't that system for later models?
Not sayin it wouldn't work but I mean as far as for authenticity
 

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I would pick the second one down, that is the one I have. You want the 2.5 collectors and no heat riser valves. I have those I did have Butler drill the heads I have to fit more bolt holes.

It fits nice, runs great and is an improvement. If you are doing concourse shows, some judge may say that it is not stock. Maybe there is a buyer who would object and that matters to you.

But you could just put those on and keep originals if you have them. And you can give them the originals when you sell.

We are all different I built my car for me. Strong, reliable, efficient and fun. Those issues don’t matter to me, but I understand they do to many guys. So you just have to decide.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
I would pick the second one down, that is the one I have. You want the 2.5 collectors and no heat riser valves. I have those I did have Butler drill the heads I have to fit more bolt holes.

It fits nice, runs great and is an improvement. If you are doing concourse shows, some judge may say that it is not stock. Maybe there is a buyer who would object and that matters to you.

But you could just put those on and keep originals if you have them. And you can give them the originals when you sell.

We are all different I built my car for me. Strong, reliable, efficient and fun. Those issues don’t matter to me, but I understand they do to many guys. So you just have to decide.
Ok I see and the first one on the list would be what was out of the factory. Correct ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
I'm not sure which would be a better sell . Original or ram air . Seems like alot of guys would like the idea of ram air but others might want to see it original.
I don't have the original.
Ofcourse if they want really original they won't get it here anyway because although it's a 66 389 block it's not the correct number for the car or for a goat so the exhaust being original or not may not make any difference at all in this case .
 

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I'm not sure which would be a better sell . Original or ram air . Seems like alot of guys would like the idea of ram air but others might want to see it original.
I don't have the original.
Ofcourse if they want really original they won't get it here anyway because although it's a 66 389 block it's not the correct number for the car or for a goat so the exhaust being original or not may not make any difference at all in this case .
Hmmmm. Are all you exhaust pipes/mufflers still the original factory pieces? That would answer the question right there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Looks correct, 4 bbl or tri power were the same valve covers. And just by the way if there is still a original set of exhaust pipes past the manifolds on a 50-58 year old car I’d like to see em.
Thanks man.
Would this part here have been on the 66 ?

 
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