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67 Basket Case Restorer
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Discussion Starter #1
Not a Pontiac but the same body style and repair method. I should've had the GTO back in the shop by now, but I bought a '66 Chevelle in October. It was supposed to be a "driver" that I could cruise in and fix up as time and money allowed. We all know how those things turn out...:rolleyes:
After it got here from Florida, I drove 12 miles round trip to the DMV to transfer the title and put it in the shop for a few "quick" repairs. The front suspension and steering were all original and very worn out, so I was going to just do a complete rebuild and add power steering and power disc brakes while it was all apart. The shifter for the 4 speed was back unusually far and I thought it was because it had a Borg Warner T10 from an 81 Camaro with the Camaro shifter in it. After looking it over carefully and getting the block numbers for the engine, I discovered it had a '93 Gen V 454 TRUCK engine in it with the truck oil pan still on it. The oil pan is much bigger and instead of getting a correct conversion pan, the PO bashed in the firewall, cut and SPREAD the tunnel so the bell housing would fit and built a porch for the shift boot all back 2-3 inches from where it was supposed to be.....:mad: In addition to that, the core support was toast and the new repro that he sent with the car was for a 67, which is very different from a 66, so I had to find a core support too. Subsequently, I gutted what little there was of interior and removed EVERYTHING from the firewall forward.









Here I've pounded the firewall back out as best I can.


There was some rust thru in the floor in the driver foor well area along with all the butchering for the trans and shifter, so I ordered a pan to replace it all at once.


Here it is 3 days after I backed it in under it's own power....:willy:
 

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67 Basket Case Restorer
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2,717 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I cut the floor out and fitted the new pan. It covered 90% of the damaged from the PO.



There was a small hole left from the factory floor shift hole and I cut a piece off the old GTO floor to fill it.


Next I turned my attention to the lower windshield channel that was in very poor condition.




The metal dash panel was so bad, I decide to cut the whole thing out and weld reinforcements for the new channel to attach to.






The new channel didn't fit real nice, so I held it in place with a couple pop rivets and then started modifying it so the cowl grill would match up.


I had to cut most of the slots higher and bend the corners for a tighter fit.
 

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67 Basket Case Restorer
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2,717 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
I forgot to take a pic of how badly the grille fit before modifying the channel but here it is after the final fitting.


Next, I set the new windshield in place to check for fit. I had it in and out a few times to get the lip on the channel right.


Once I was happy with the fit, I used my flat bottom spot weld drill and milled 20 holes in the channel to cowl surface. I didn't drill thru the cowl panel, just the channel so I had a bottom surface to plug weld to.



Then I welded it in.


After carefully grinding and disc sanding it was very flat again.


Then I cut out a small square at the e-brake bracket that had rusted thru and made a patch for that too.


Patch held in place with a magnet for welding from the inside.


I still had a few pinholes after welding so I gave it a nice coat of seam sealer at the same time I sealed the entire perimeter of the new floor pan.


 

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64-67 Expert
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8,569 Posts
All those beautiful pictures, and not a single one of the Shop Toilet. What's up with THAT?? Seriously, I'm going to get in my '67 one of these days and drive it the 2000 miles up there and hire you to freshen up my trunk floor. You make this stuff look too easy! That's gonna be a really nice little '66. There's a Steve Earl song called "Sweet Little '66" that came out about 20 years ago about a '66SS 396....but you probably aleady know it.....
 

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67 Basket Case Restorer
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2,717 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
All those beautiful pictures, and not a single one of the Shop Toilet. What's up with THAT?? Seriously, I'm going to get in my '67 one of these days and drive it the 2000 miles up there and hire you to freshen up my trunk floor. You make this stuff look too easy! That's gonna be a really nice little '66. There's a Steve Earl song called "Sweet Little '66" that came out about 20 years ago about a '66SS 396....but you probably aleady know it.....
It IS easy............once you get past the fear factor of starting and make the first cut. Then you HAVE to continue to get it back together again...:eek:

Bring that car on up here, if it doesn't float away in all the flooding...

I'm not aware of that song...........now I have to go find it. All I remember is "Little Duece Coupe" and "Little GTO"....:D Oh, yeah, there's the "Little Old Lady from Pasadena".

Commode went to landfill heaven...:seeya:
 

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65 Posts
TooMP,
Thanks for showing such great detailed pictures of your work. I need to do a lower windshield channel repair on my GTO and your pictures really are helpful.
Thanks!
Dave
 

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67 Basket Case Restorer
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2,717 Posts
Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
TooMP,
Thanks for showing such great detailed pictures of your work. I need to do a lower windshield channel repair on my GTO and your pictures really are helpful.
Thanks!
Dave
Glad they are helpful to you. The channel isn't as hard as some other panels I've replaced. Patience and a steady hand with the cutoff blade to remove the old one is the key. The Goodmark channel I got fit OK, with a little help. If you haven't bought a channel yet, check out Ames Performance. They test fit all the parts they sell and state theirs includes the pins for the trim clips now too.
 

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Ahh yes, I was wondering which panel you used.....I couldn't tell if yours came with the studs or not. I called AMES a couple weeks ago about their channel piece. They said it was better than the older ones and comes with the studs. I intend to get one next month when they come to a swap meet in January in Springfield MA. They bring orders to shows for no shipping charge.
Keep up the great work, I look forward to seeing your GTO work too....
 

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220 Posts
TMP at it again!
 

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67 Basket Case Restorer
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2,717 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
hoooleee shipsh1t batman i thought that was a driver you bought????? well now you got another "project" lol good luck and love the pics
It was.......I "drove" it in the shop and tore it down...:willy:

Holiday delay lately and the last 2 days repairing the neighbors Bobcat bucket and truck plow. I should've taken pics of the plow blade. It was a real train wreck. Took me 6 hours to porta-power and hammer it back into shape then weld the tear and reinforce it.
Should be back on the Chevelle this week yet.
 

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67 Basket Case Restorer
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2,717 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Wow, I haven't updated this in a while.
Dash panel welded back in. Same process as the channel to cowl..,


Painted.


I had to replace the lower leg from a donor too, as it was rusted thru from the windshield leaking.


I won't bore everyone with details, but there's MANY hours invested here from wire wheel cleaning of the entire inner firewall and kick panels too multiple treatments of rust stop and paint to get to this point.


Heater box, column bracket, every removeable part in these pics was blasted and treated before paint.


Outer firewall prep involved stripping to bare, scrapping all old sealer off and cutting an access hole in the left cowl to address rust inside. I could get at the right side thru the blower hole to spray with rust stop but wasn't able to do a good job on the left. This hole allowed me to feel comfortable that I had covered everything inside and have stopped the rusting process.




Done and painted the same Charcoal Grey Metallic as the inside.
 

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67 Basket Case Restorer
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2,717 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Here is a contributor to the firewall/floor butchery. Having the wrong oil pan and locating the engine rearward, the PO welded these newer mounts to the frame. I cut them off and dressed the surfaces.


I also have done the initial clean up of the right control arms in the blasting cabinet.


Original vintage mounts to correctly locate the engine.


Right control arms with old bushings and ball joints removed, sand blasted and rust treated, ready for assembly. Prothane bushings, Moog ball joints and Global West off set upper shaft.


Assembled, ready for paint.


All chassis parts and frame will be Eastwood Detail Grey


speaking of the frame. I trusted the seller that the frame was "fine". Here's "fine"......both sides rusted thru behind the front wheel.


Cut plates out of 1/8 steel and welded them from the front box to the side rail.


Then I fabbed a piece of angle iron to tie all three pieces together for strength. NOT fun laying on my back trying to weld in such a confined area with sparks flying all over.


Left side too. It isn't very pretty but under the circumstances, it's plenty strong.
 

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67 Basket Case Restorer
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2,717 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Mitch, you should have a show on speed TV....kinda like Stacey David's "Gearz".......:cheers Eric
That would be great to get a sponsor to pay for all my toy repairs but speed isn't in my work description....:rolleyes:
 

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Mitch,

This project is really moving along, its looking great. That is a bummer about the frame but thats how rust goes. I found a couple surprises in areas I wasn't expecting on my frame...:(

I Like the suspension components that you got. On the front upper A-Arms, how does that mount bar come apart/go back together?

Thanks,
Thor
 

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67 Basket Case Restorer
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2,717 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Thor7352;254179 I Like the suspension components that you got. On the front upper A-Arms said:
They slide in the arm from the end and then the bushings get pressed on over it. The first bushing is easy without the shaft in the way. The second one, I removed the poly insert and used the nut and washer to put pressure on the shell and then put a socket over the nut onto the washer and smacked it with a hammer to get it to slide. The arm wants to crush from the tension, so I cut a piece of 1/2" pipe to fit inside the arm to prevent it from moving.
 
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