I’ll take a look at the braces, thanks for the heads up. Plan for the car is just a family cruiser. If it was a hardtop I might've gone more HP. It was an original automatic car, good observation there, and probably a good reason it didnt get wrapped around a tree or beat up even more. All the parts used to make the conversion seems to be original, its like someone had a four speed parts car and swapped it all over. I still need to clean up the rear end and see if I still have the original auto rear end.Moving forward, looks good. That's the way to do it then you know what you have and that it's done right.
I used the Eastwood Internal Frame Paint to get inside the frame areas that were boxed. I used about 3 cans on my '68 Lemans frame which has the open side rails. Your convertible are boxed, so it may take 4 cans, but I'd start with three. The stuff is runny and it was green in color - at least mine was. So you want to use this before painting the outside of the frame. Obviously you can paint over it as well if you do it after frame painting - which is what I did.
Demolish the hidden rust inside your project car’s chassis and stop new rust from forming with this anti-rust coating spray that helps restorations last.www.eastwood.com
Was the 4-speed added? Add to your list "Rear Upper & Lower Control Arm Braces." The 4-speed cars had these factory installed. It ties the upper control arm to the lower control arm using the control arm bolts and adds stiffness to the frame and is a plus if you plan on exercising the HP with the 4-speed.
You can go repop and get a set that is like the original or aftermarket. I went with a set from UMI which are tubular, have a bend to clear the floor pan, adjuster nut to adjust length should there be anything out of alignment, and new bolts/nuts. The factory are fine and should be used as a minimum. The UMI pieces are more money, but much heftier.
Not knowing what HP/TQ level you are looking for if you rebuild the engine, but keep in mind the 10-bolt is good, but once you go over stock HP/TQ numbers and then add wider/sticky tires and/or a posi you can break them. I have wailed the heck out of them with stock engines and never had an issue, but single leggers and the old bias-ply tires so the tires would just light up and smoke rather than grab. Left nice burn-out marks on the pavement. LOL