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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, I need to remove engine to replace damaged intermediate shaft and oil pump, I have a 400 and turbo 400 auto, I have been told mixed opinions about if I should remove just engine or engine and auto, some say remove both its more easy but I worry about damage trying to get the engine and box out in one go seems a scary task, but with bonnet off just lifting engine out seems like less chance of damage to car in the engine bay, but I am told getting the box and converter lined up again is really difficult, anyone got any opinions and ideas or tips on the best way please let me know, thanks
 

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67's might be different, but on my 69 even with all of the front sheet metal off the car (fenders, hood, inner fenders..) I have never been able to re-install the engine and transmission as a unit. I've never found it to be difficult to re-mate the engine and transmission/torque converter, just line up the big dowel pins, push the two together, then bolt the converter to the flex plate.

Bear
 

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When I pulled the Chevy 350 out of my '67 to put the 400 back in, it was definitely easier to pull the transmission separately, and put them back in separately. It's funny how the physical removal/installation of the engine is the easiest part of an engine swap...
 

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I suppose I live in a different world than the rest of you guys. I raced a '67 & a couple of '69 GTO's, as well as several 1st gen Birds, two 2nd gens, and one Ventura 2. I've pulled & installed the engine/trans together countless times. And this includes a Powerglide, a TH350, & both long & short tail TH400's. Have also pulled the engine by itself, and the trans by itself.

But obviously, if the trans don't need to come out, you can pull the engine by itself. I have no problem with guys doing it any way they choose. As with many things Pontiac, especially cam choice, opinions differ.
 

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Yeah, BigD - I'm not saying it can't be done, just that I've never been able to do it. Then last time we tried, my son and I messed with it for a solid hour, and that was with all the front end sheet metal off. We got into a Catch 22 situation where when we got the engine high enough so that the dog ears on the motor mounts could pass over the frame saddles, we couldn't move it rearward enough to be able to straddle them because the transmission was hitting the tunnel. We tried tilting it to lower the tail, but all that did was make the backs of the heads hit the firewall and cause the same problem. There may be a way to do it - we just couldn't find it.

Bear
 

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Discussion Starter #7
well after talking to my friend about the various ways it seems best I just pull the engine, he said just make sure the box is supported correctly so its not moving anywhere, and move the engine forward about 1 inch, the engine should now be disconnected from the box, then lift engine out, seems the obvious way to go, just have to be careful the converter does not move forward during the process...
 

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well after talking to my friend about the various ways it seems best I just pull the engine, he said just make sure the box is supported correctly so its not moving anywhere, and move the engine forward about 1 inch, the engine should now be disconnected from the box, then lift engine out, seems the obvious way to go, just have to be careful the converter does not move forward during the process...
Remove the starter, remove the inspection pan and remove the 4 bolts that attach the converter to the flex plate,
Drain anti freeze, remove fan and fan clutch, radiator shroud and radiator.
Pull distributor.
Unbolt bell housing, I use a socket on a long extension.
Unbolt exhaust.
Pull the two long bolts on the motor mounts.
Disconnect hoses, fuel line, loom etc.
Place bottle jack under tranny to support, you will have to raise the engine to clear the exhaust before you can pull it forward.
Make sure to run the bottle jack up as you lift.
The torque converter will not move forward as long as you have removed the 4 bolts holding it to the flexplate.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Remove the starter, remove the inspection pan and remove the 4 bolts that attach the converter to the flex plate,
Drain anti freeze, remove fan and fan clutch, radiator shroud and radiator.
Pull distributor.
Unbolt bell housing, I use a socket on a long extension.
Unbolt exhaust.
Pull the two long bolts on the motor mounts.
Disconnect hoses, fuel line, loom etc.
Place bottle jack under tranny to support, you will have to raise the engine to clear the exhaust before you can pull it forward.
Make sure to run the bottle jack up as you lift.
The torque converter will not move forward as long as you have removed the 4 bolts holding it to the flexplate.
great stuff that all helps, ok so I need to lift a bit before going forward , I get it all good, hopefully !.....thanks
 

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Remember that there are alignment dowels in the back of the engine that go into the trans bellhousing. You can't just lift up, you will have to separate the engine from the bell, simply pry it apart with a screw driver if it gives you any problems.

Also support the transmission as it will nose down without the engine attached, pulling out the driveshaft and draining ATF all over the place. Don't put a jack under it or anything else that will focus pressure on one spot or you will cave in the trans pan. I have used a nice piece of 1/2" or 3/4" plywood big enough to be about the same size as the pan so as to spread the weight evenly and put a hydraulic jack under the piece of plywood. Don't jack under the torque converter either, you will damage the seal and who knows what else.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Remember that there are alignment dowels in the back of the engine that go into the trans bellhousing. You can't just lift up, you will have to separate the engine from the bell, simply pry it apart with a screw driver if it gives you any problems.

Also support the transmission as it will nose down without the engine attached, pulling out the driveshaft and draining ATF all over the place. Don't put a jack under it or anything else that will focus pressure on one spot or you will cave in the trans pan. I have used a nice piece of 1/2" or 3/4" plywood big enough to be about the same size as the pan so as to spread the weight evenly and put a hydraulic jack under the piece of plywood. Don't jack under the torque converter either, you will damage the seal and who knows what else.
ok the plywood under pan sounds like the plan on my hydraulic jack, that's easy enough,

there is only about half inch or less between the exhaust manifold and frame so it wont move forward much, so I have to start lifting to get the manifold clear before I can move engine forward, engine might separate a bit maybe with a screw driver but it wont be much from what I'm seeing, I assume I will need to lift engine and the box both at the same time enough for manifold to clear, then I can separate....
 

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Correct.
You can also use a piece of 2x6 across the pan on the tranny.
Once you lift the engine high enough to clear the exhaust jack the tranny up to take the stress off the area where it meets the bell housing.
Chances are at this point if you shake the cherry picker it will just separate.
The set up on the lift points on the engine is important, if there is twist or too much pitch it will give you problems, moreso reinstalling than pulling.
Here are some pics of the gambrel Ron and I made for the chain and the attachment points.
A strap at a 3rd point will keep the engine level side to side.
If you don't get this right on install it will fight you.
You basically want the engine level from side to side and at an angle that matches that of the tranny.
Look at the back of the engine and the face of the bell housing, if these surfaces aren't parallel you won't be able to mate them back up.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I bought this load leveler to attached to the hoist, I will bolt each chain to each corner on the heads, this leveler will hopefully make it easy so I can adjust the tilt if needed, I have almost got things ready, just got to unbolt the flex plate and take out the engine mount bolts and I'm ready to go

my friend suggested I unbolt the autos crossmember where its bolted to the main frame rails at each end , so it still supports the auto but will slide back, if I support the weight a bit on a trolley jack the tranny can slide back a bit on the tailshaft, without actually removing the tailshaft, apparently the tranny will slide back maybe half inch or so, this will help in getting engine manifolds over the frame
 

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