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Discussion Starter #1
Greetings,

First time poster obviously. Unfortunately restoration is not my specialty and this'll definitely be a learning experience. My intentions are not a numbers matching pristine beauty, though I would like a close to original interior/exterior '67 and engine/tranny match for daily. I know a clone is probably better suited, but I'd like to have the eye candy close to original.

Looked at a 67 today and took a few pics. Guy has the whole thing primered in black and reports it was running until last winter I suspect '09 the engine block cracked (not original engine/tranny). The tires are too new looking to have been sitting for a year. I suspect they were put on the vehicle for viewing but kept elsewhere. Interior will need major work, floor pans and trunk pan will need replacing. Front end needs a bit of work as well.

My camera had poor/incorrect settings so many pictures didn't come out, but see below. Seems this one's cancer is terrible in some difficult spots, parts of the entire trunk lip are missing.

Seemed entirely too steep at $4000. Thoughts?
 

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if your already questioning your abilities and don't have a budget to pay someone the 25k or more it will take to get it fully restored don't do it. I am on my first full body on resto, and i would ask yourself a few important questions before you decide on any car
sounds like you want a driver for cruising

what years do you like? 66' and 67' are very similar.
what work can i do myself?
what work will i have to pay someone to do?
will i source my own parts to save the markup?
do i have room to have a torn apart car in my garage? (takes double the space of one assembled)
do i have the tools required to do this?
if not what will they cost?
do i have the time?
what is my time frame to complete?
what is my car budget?
what is my resto budget?
can my marriage handle this....lol, jk
not trying to be a downer just making you aware of things you will run into.

i would look for a car with the best body possible for your budget as bodywork and paintis very expensive (have seen bids of 25,000 + for cars in better shape than that one. your paint will only ever be as good as your body is. Also i would never buy a car someone else has taken apart, even if you take it apart yourself take pictures as you go, a year down the line or more when you are trying to put back together you will not remember how it came apart. Cars in the market you are looking will need the engine re-built most likely anyways to run on pump gas as a daily driver. True GTO's with a decent body and missing or burnt up drive train can fetch 10,000. You may want to look for a Lemans or Tempest of your favorite year as the initial price will be less, which will leave you more for the restore and if you MUST have a GTO you can make it a clone. ohhh, and when you get to the bottom three on the list, double them because we are all optimistic...:D

paid 2,500 for my Tempest and another 900 to ship it to MI from ID, all metal original body, 99.9% complete dealer serviced in a carport since 76' after throwing a valve on the 326 which is on the floor in lieu of a 71' 455 but will be rebuilt stock and kept with the car, not going to clone it, nice Leman's and Tempest are more rare now as most have been cut up as parts mules.

1966 Tempest pictures by instg8ter - Photobucket

Brian
 

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Brian covered this pretty good will just add there are some pretty good deals out there right now in the 15 grand range so might look around little more. If you are good with your hands & brain this is probably something you will enjoy doing. It makes for a great hobby. I have made many great friends. $4000 might be a little high you can always offer 3000 and wait for him to call you. Good Luck..Les
 

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:agree FNG, it is a buyers market, and is fun and rewarding, this site and other Pontiac specific sites are your best resource, and a great motivational tool (just look at what some of the guys have taken on as projects) so post and learn. Just passing along a little wisdom if i am able from limited experience. Our cars are more expensive than say chevy's and Fords, as they are really an animal unto themselves, you will also need a good PONTIAC mechanic or be willing to study and learn the intricacy's of Pontiac motors. so read, study, absorb, price and make an informed purchase and enjoy the perma grin every time you fire up your Injun.
 

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need more pictures to tell. cant tell much from what you posted. there was an estate auction here last month. they had a non original 67 gto that needed total restoration but it was complete. it brought 9k.
if we could see more pictures we could give a better opinion.
 

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I agree with Inst and FNG 100%. Nine grand for a non-original '67 GTO needing a total restoration is about 3k too high in this economy,IMHO, and that's California money where I come from. You would do well to avoid a rusty car and aquire either a "done" car for 15k or so, or a "fixer" car for 6-10k that needs mechanical and cosmetic work, but is drivable and not a rust bomb. A car that will not require you to become an expert fabricator, welder, etc. Good Luck.
 

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and Welcome to the forum d3d9 :cheers...lol, how rude of me, you will find us Pontiac guys are passionate about our cars and like to share our experiences and pass on what others have taught us to perpetuate the breed. The bright side is A-bodies are fairly simple mechanically, if you are at all mechanically inclined and willing to learn you can rebuild frame, suspension and drive train and interior with stock+ parts fairly reasonably i have done mine and i'm a carpenter :willy:. there are always plenty of people around here that have done this many times and will help as needed...for them i am grateful.:party:
 

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If you are gonna build a nice car....i might pass on that one. It will probably need lower 1/4 panels also. If the motor is shot as you think, you will need a new block and rebuild ($5000). You also MUST find out what is under that black primer (all over)......It is easy to spend another 10-15K.......look around some more. IMHO... Welcome and Happy hunting! Eric:cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Much appreciate the sage advice everyone. I do think I'll pass on this one. There is another 67 GTO a few hours away I'll be taking a look at this coming weekend. Though the pictures aren't great, it's still in the original burgundy and looks like it has surface rust in some parts.

The only downside is it is lacking an engine and a tranny (and for the project, i've factored in $5-6K for the part that makes it 'go') and asking $5500. I'm sure I'll bring back many more and much clearer pictures. The whole thing covered in primer had me concerned since you can see where rusted sections were painted over.

Thanks!
 

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post back when you get some pics d3, 5K will get you the motivation you need now just need to find a good foundation to put it in and your halfway there. where you located? i will keep an eye out on my travels for 66'-67'
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Central Texas. Making a 7 hour round trip for the next chassis, so I'm willing to make a drive. Thanks for keeping an eye out!
 

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d3, a car in original faded out paint is ALWAYS a better bet than one that has been "upgraded" with a coat of "hide all" primer. You'll be able to see exactly what you're getting. If it's solid but missing the motor/trans, no biggie. Drivetrains are tons cheaper than body panels and fab work. Plus, Burgundy is a kick a$$ color on these cars!! good luck.
 

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Good idea to pass on that one. There are many replacement body panels available, but quarters are a very sore point with these cars and the rust over the tail lights in the quarter are hand fabricate only. Nothing available as a replacement. Also, the rust at the bottom of the rear window....that panel is available, but again, the structure under it is most likely badly rusted too and is NOT available and would need to come from a donor car. I can well imagine how the rest of the under side and trunk floor look from just those two pics and it's a rust bomb. Those are areas to closely inspect on any older car you are looking at. Finally, no mention of the frame but you HAVE to inspect the frames on these cars because they rust too. The first and most common area to go is right behind the front tires where the square, boxed front frame welds to the open C channel that runs under the doors. There is a natural trap that collects dirt and moisture and they rust out along with the body panels. Here's a pic of what I'm referring to;


You need to crawl right inside these cars and inspect everything before buying or you will be greatly surprised and disappointed when you start tearing it down. The pic is of a 66 Chevelle I bought out of Florida last October and trusted the sellers word that the frame was good. I cut plates and welded them in to reinforce the frame for now, but it will a MAJOR undertaking in the future to section in a donor replacement to be 100% again.

Follow the link in my sig for an eye opening look at how badly these cars rot away and use that knowledge for future considerations....;)

Good Luck with the hunt and have fun doing it...:seeya:
 

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Welcome to the forum. Looks like you're having fun and enjoying the hunt. Keep in mind the more you can get right off the bat the less you have to fix later.
:agree With Mitch, check the car over well. Crawl under it, listen to it run, drive, feel all the fenders on the outside and inside for the ones you can get too. Note any previous strange looking repairs or missing parts. And most important find a car you really like and can envision yourself fixing and driving!

-Thor
:seeya
 

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As previously stated the 66 and 67 are VERY similar, 67 is also a more desirable year from what I have seen so you are going to pay more for it. I personally love the louvers on the tail lights of the 66, and the front end differences are negligable. If I was looking in your budget, I would take a clean body with a stripped drivetrain over a driver that needs tons of rust repair any day of the week. Getting in and going is nice, but you will save buckets of cash in the long run.

I paid 14500 for my 66 with a completely fresh drivetrain, clean interior, and minor rust. It needs paint BAD though, the only noticable rust I have seen is the base of the rear window and a small hole in the trunk pan. Most would probably say I paid a bit more than I should have, but I got a bad case of the "I wants" when I found the car. At the end of the day, I do not feel I overpaid and am happy about with what I got. And that's all you need to be really concerned with.
 
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