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Discussion Starter #1
hi, i installed a rebuilt power steering box 2.5 turn lock to lock made by cardone and also a standard rebuilt cardone pump, i am having problems with steering as i dont have a turning circle as tight as my original box, i have heard about stops in these boxs but cannot get a clear answer out of the seller, i am just about over messing with this cardone box, my question here is whats the best power steering box available ? i am now considering one made by AGR its 12-1 ratio 2.5 turn lock to lock.....does anyone know anything about these AGR boxs or any boxs worth using
also i have been told if i use a quick ratio box i should replace the standard pump with a more performance pump hi flow one that can do 3-3 1/4 GPM, any ideas ?...i want the best and if a pump will make a difference i will replace the rebuilt cardone one....thanks
 

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Do you still have your original steering unit? If so, the folks at powersteering.com can rebuld it into a quick-ratio unit for you. All the stops will be right and it will still be numbers matching for your car. I had them do the one for my 69 and I'm very happy with it.

Other than that, as long as the pump is working, not making noise, and not leaking there's not a whole lot of reason to replace it. A pump either provides pressure to work the system or it doesn't.

Bear
 

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I put a rebuilt Buick Grand National/ Monte Carlo SS box in my 65. 2.5 turns lock to lock and turning radius doesn't seem any less than stock non power box. Think it was only about $130.
 

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I had the AGR box on my v8 s10 blazer. I lost turn radius
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Do you still have your original steering unit? If so, the folks at powersteering.com can rebuld it into a quick-ratio unit for you. All the stops will be right and it will still be numbers matching for your car. I had them do the one for my 69 and I'm very happy with it.

Other than that, as long as the pump is working, not making noise, and not leaking there's not a whole lot of reason to replace it. A pump either provides pressure to work the system or it doesn't.

Bear
bear....i still have original box....not actually sure if it is the correct factory original, it looks right but i never checked....anyway i am in australia so getting it rebuilt is not practical, after searching around the 2.9 turn quick ratio sold by performance years sounds like the best bet, i made it very clear i dont want to loose turning ability so they know my concerns

as for pump well it seems to be working fine, it does make that whining noise on full lock but only when holding steering wheel fully locked, i think thats normal on most boxs, i think !

anyway after fitting 2 cardone boxs i am over it, i hope PY comes to the rescue they did seem to feel there box is correct and i wont have any issues.....thanks
 

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PonchoNorm... Does that box fit right in? Does anyone know of a quick ratio(quicker than the original that is) that I can pick up at pickNpull, that will fit right in?

Thanks.
 

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Any one use the Delphi box from Ames? Expensive but they say it is like the ones used by Nascar cars--looking for one with quick ratio and more effort than stock the power stering box.
 

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Inststalled the delphi box --12:1 --2.5 turns lock to lock--feels great but many times has a groan sound when turning right --left is fine--did not make this noise with the stock power steering box--anyone know what is wrong?
 

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Groaning is usually trapped air/unit not full.

Make sure reservoir is full
Start engine (do NOT turn the wheel steering wheel), let it run a few seconds
Shut off and recheck fluid level, refill as needed.
When you get to the point where the fluid level doesn't change...

Start engine
turn steering wheel a little bit (no more than 1/8 turn) in both directions
Shut off engine and recheck level, refill as needed.
Keep repeating, working your way up to larger and larger turns of the steering wheel.
When you get to the point where the fluid level stays constant, even when you turn the wheel lock to lock, you're done.

You still may have to drive it a few days before all the air makes its way out of the system. Keep checking fluid level.

Bear
 

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I put a "3-turn" steering box from Year One in my '67 GTO and it works fine, although it is a bit more than 3 turns... more like 3 1/8. I would like it a bit quicker (like the 2 3/4 turn one).

From your description (in your original post), your increased turning radius makes me think that the steering box you have is from a Firebird or Camaro. Years ago, I bought a wrecking yard box from a Firebird to install on my goat, but I happened to stumble accross a post on a Chevelle forum where a guy had the same issue as you. A reply post said that the problem was that the quicker ratio box was probably from a Firebird/Camaro and the shaft rotation at the pitman arm on these cars is 72 degrees. The shorter wheelbase cars only needed that to get a decent turn radius,, but "A body" cars used boxes with 90 degrees rotation. I checked the wrecking yard box I had.... sure enough ~72 degrees!

I was kind of bummed out at the moment..... until my dim bulb mind flickered as I looked over to the other side of the garage where there sat my '69 Camaro that really could use quicker steering :)

The one I ordered from Year One had 90 degrees rotation and my turning radius is just as it was before.

Loved our time in "OZ" by the way - can't wait to go back!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
well this steering box issue is still going, i could write a book on the expirence, the first cardone box from rock auto locked up the 2nd day i drove it and after many calls to rock auto they replaced, i fitted the 2nd replacement cardone box and lost my turning circle, it was so bad that when turning into a street off a main road i had to line it up careful to get around very dangerous, my left side wheel only came out past the guard lip by about 1 inch, i had about 30 emails with rockauto and they refused to replace a 2nd time, one incident had me turning out of a street onto the freeway i could not make the turn and ended up pointing down the wrong side of the road into oncoming traffic with my 2 kids in the back seat that was very very serious, it was touch and go i just got out of that one, after that i had 2 mechanics check the install, pitman arm was correct , all is correct, i sent rock auto pics and explained how i was now out of pocket for 2 installations and my time but they still refuse refund, so i said i will post on forums and spread the word about the 2 faulty boxes , well now they finally offer replacement box but tell me i have to send back the faulty box , this will cost me $160, the thing is i wont install a 3rd cardone box its not worth the risk i dont feel safe driving with a potential lock up again, i figure after spending money to have 2 installations done and all the time wasted and nearly having a serious accident the least they could do is refund my money or send a new box at no cost to me, i paid for a box already and should not have to pay $160 on top of mechanics costs, but they still wont budge , i repeatly warned them i do not want to continue with this and dont want to go to this point of forums and magazine storys , yes i am doing one about this with lots more detail, but they are being stubborn, so here i am spreading the word, at this point i am down around $1000 and no working box , you wouldnt believe the amount of emails and time i put into trying to explain to rock auto the time and issues i had with these boxes, and the amount of questions they kept throwing at me dragging this out and i guess just hoping i would go away, its definatly not the money here its just the principal of the whole thing, 2 faulty boxes, bugger trying a 3rd i want my money back, i'm buying off another company that has gauranteed me if i loose turning circle with there box they will replace at no cost to me and i can throw the first box in the bin ! now thats a company gaurantee i can deal with, box is on order so for now its to be continued.....
 

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Has anyone tried using the Jeep Grand Cherokee box? I guess those bolt right up, are quick ratio (3 turns) same turning radius with increased effort and they may kits for the power steering lines to fit?! I think you have to use years 93-97.
 

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Reviving this old thread because I am looking to do the same conversion. Can anyone shine some light on doing this swap? Ive got a ton of part numbers and ideas, but id like to speak to someone who has done the Grand Cherokee box themselves. Get a re-man? If so what part number? I have a Jeep specialty wrecking yard by me who has a GC box for $75 out of a Grand Cherokee that had 80k miles on it.
 

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$75 is a fair price for a decent used one. In the Pick-N-Pulls, I watch the jeep GC's that have the mileage paint penned on them next to stock number and date. have pulled half a dozen GC boxes over the years during 1/2 price sales, really dont like todays pricing. Reason for watching for mileage is the Jeep GCs have digital speedo's and I'm not the most comfortable buying boxes off 300k mile Jeeps. Usually it's the bells and whistles that go bad on the Jeep GCs, the 4.0 6's will go forever, two of the last Jeep GCs pulled boxes off had been beat up bad with hail.

Have installed 6 or 7 used Jeep GC boxes on late 60's A bodys and '80's G body's over the last decade. Years earlier sold and installed a bunch of '78-80 WS6 boxes. Have shipped out a bunch of both, as well.

Going on an earlier A body, you will need the correct rag joint and the 2 insert fittings from Lee Mfg, so you can use your SAE thread original style steering hoses. Swapping the GC box on an 80's G body, I'd grab the valve out of the back of the GC's PS pump at the pick-n-pull and swap it out before you connect the line. not real important though.

You will need to have the pitman arm pulled off your original PS box, and then install it on the Jeep GC box. After hauling dozens of heavy filthy steering boxes across townto my circle track buddy, I finally broke down and bought a nice used Snappy pitman arm puller at a local garage auction. You might ck local parts store with a tool loaner program, will save some bucks. If you are handy with tools, is fairly easy swap, I used to literally spend more time getting the pitman arms off.

Here's a link from earlier this year detailing more on the GC box and the needed rag joint.
http://www.gtoforum.com/f50/steering-88081/#post630729
 

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Going on an earlier A body, you will need the correct rag joint and the 2 insert fittings from Lee Mfg, so you can use your SAE thread original style steering hoses. Swapping the GC box on an 80's G body, I'd grab the valve out of the back of the GC's PS pump at the pick-n-pull and swap it out before you connect the line. not real important though.

http://www.gtoforum.com/f50/steering-88081/#post630729
Lee MFG is actually out of business! Shocking to most im sure because he was the go to guy for high performance reliable gear boxes. I have been doing extensive research on this for a few days and all my parts are lined up. Ill do a nice step by step write up with pics later this week for people to reference in the future searching for this info.

So far here are the parts im using on my '66:

A1 Cardone Remanufactured Power Steering Pump part number - 20-6117 $46 (works great with 67 and later alum accessory mounting block, lots of room for adjustment with alternator and PS pump on driver side.)
Summit Racing® Power Steering Pulleys Summit Racing part number - SUM-G3975 $36 (nice aluminum pulley about same diameter as the pump itself)
A1 Cardone JGC reman box part number: 27-7525 $129 O'Reillys Auto Parts or Summit Racing (for $55 more i decided to take my chances on a lifetime warranty reman from a store 3 miles away than an unknown mileage used unit. I have read several forums where guys used this same box with great success)
Doorman rag joint: 31011 $48 Summit Racing
Classic Performance Products line adapters: 605SOL $16 Summit Racing


Ive read about the Lee fittings. Even when they were still available and they seemed to work for people im not too hip on threading SAE lines into metric holes with little aluminum fittings to butt the 2000psi inverted flare pressure line against. And all within 6" of my headers? No way id rather cut a metric line and reflare the pump side with the SAE fitting before doing that. Or like you said just change out the fitting in the back of the pump. Those CPP fittings are brass and convert the newer box 16mm and 18mm o-ring holes to the SAE 5/8-18 and 11/16-18 inverted flare our PS lines use. O rings included. Several reviews and testimonies online of them working perfectly.

Ill have a sticky worthy installation write up and review in a few days or after the weekend once i do it on my Le Mans.
 

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I replaced my worn steering box on my '65 a few months ago with a "stock" ratio box from cardone. also replaced my pitman arm n steering coupler. the car drives n steers very nice, the way that it did when it rolled off the assembly line 50 years ago.
 
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