Normal - at least you did not have to take the big hammer to them.
Many will go with a mini-starter which is much smaller in size and packs good torque. Many will go with the RobbMc mini-starter ad you can clock the solenoid in different positions and you can clock it downward to get it away from the heat of the tubes. However, this will require some lengthening or replacing of the wiring when you clock the solenoid downward.
Oil pressure switch might be able to use a 90 degree brass elbow instead of coming straight off the filter adapter. Don't over tighten any fitting or oil sender into the housing as it will crack it. They are pipe threads and will tighten up as you snug it down with reasonable force. Do not put teflon tape on anything as the sender has to ground to operate. If you had a mechanical gauge, there is a port on top of the rear block next to the distributor. It uses and allen plug. It can be really hard to remove if it has never been removed and you can mess up/round off the hex edges, so treat it like a stuck bolt with some penetrating oil and some heat cycles - if you go that route. Then use the correct fitting in place of the allen pipe plug and then the oil line end fitting goes into it. I believe a kit will have all the parts needed, but has been many years since I did mine, so memory isn't helping me.
Clutch cross-over shaft as long as it is not hitting and you can get the full pedal throw out of it, you should be good.