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I need to make some room in my garage for another vehicle so I think it’s time for the Lemans to go.

I’m not really sure what the car is worth or what the market is like right now. I’m hoping you guys can give me a rough value for the car. It runs, drives, and stops :grin2:. Body is in decent shape but could definitely use a little body work and paint.

Pictures: https://imgur.com/a/1xa5PsJ

1967 Pontiac LeMans. Originally a 326 with A/C. Previous owner swapped in a Pontiac 400 and removed most of the A/C system. I’m not sure if it was originally a manual or an automatic but it has a 4 speed manual now.

Pontiac 400 Engine: Most likely from a 1970 B-Body
Date Code: AG80
Block Code: XZ
Engine Unit Number: 0392049
Intake manifold: 9799068
Rochester Quadrajet: 7040264

Rear End:
0783383
B217 = February 21, 1967
Carrier 2417
Ring Gear 41:16 GM968 CQ (2.56 gearing)

Highlights of what I’ve done to it:
The engine was recently pulled and refreshed, converted to electronic ignition, upgraded with a 100amp alternator, and mini-starter.
The radiator has been rodded to stop the engine from overheating.
Rear end cleaned, fluid changed, upgraded to tubular control arms, new springs, new shocks.
Front end steering components replaced, new springs, new shocks.
Upgraded to Rally gauges.
Carburetor was just rebuilt by Cliff’s High Performance.

Previous owner did a few things to it. Not sure how long ago. I’ve had the car for about 3 years.
Painted the car
Recovered the seats
Replaced headliner
Replaced front brake lines
Headers and exhaust

Parts I have but aren’t installed:
Wheel trim rings (original)
Dash grab handle (eBay find)
Ashtray (original)
Misc box of small parts and bolts from previous owner.
A/C brackets (original)
Some of the fender lettering (original)
Fan shroud (New, OPGI)
Axle seals and bearings (New, Yukon Gear & Axle)
Axle brake lines (New, Right Stuff Detailing flex and hard lines)

Parts I know are missing or need replacing:
Antenna Assembly
Trunk Mat
Deck Lid Molding w/ Clips
PONTIAC Deck Lid Letters
Hood Emblem
Seat Release Button Assembly
Shift Boot & Trim, Screws

Maintenance Log:
Jul-15 Radiator Rodding
Jul-15 Thermostat Replaced
Jul-15 Coil Spring Insulator, 45G18001
Jul-15 Rear Shocks, KYB KG5507
Jul-15 Shifter Knob, Ames R159BD
Jul-15 Sideview Mirror, Ames F160T
Aug-15 Headlight Switch, GMK-4010-523-641
Aug-15 Rear Tires, Cobra Radial GT P 275/60R15 107T SL RWL
Jan-16 Instrument Cluster Lense, Ames A273F
Jan-16 Ignition Cylinder, Ames M160E
Feb-16 Oil Pressure Sending Unit, EL6480Z
Feb-16 Rally Guage Harness, IN12622G
Feb-16 Rally Guage, IN3059G
Feb-16 Turn Signal Lense IN3041G, IN3042G
Feb-16 Front Shocks, KYB KG4515
Feb-16 Front Coil Springs, MOOG 5256
Feb-16 Sway Bar Link Kit, MOOG K6629
Feb-16 Sway Bar Bushing, Moog K5241
Jul-17 Rear Disk Brake Cleanup
Jul-17 HEI Conversion: Electronic Ignition, Distributor, Wires, Plugs
Jul-17 Alternator, GM 100 Amp Alternator
Jul-17 Mini Starter, Powermaster OSP P669610
Jul-17 Tune w/ R&R to Engine: Cleaning, painting, etc
Jul-17 Oil Pan Gasket
Jul-17 Motor Mount
Jul-17 Distributor, A1 30-1851
Jul-17 Ignition Wires
Jul-17 Timing Chain Replacement, CLO C3043
Jul-17 Timing Cover Refurbishing
Jul-17 Starter Wiring
Jul-17 Water Pump Replacement, MTC CP975
Jul-17 Thermostat Housing
Jul-17 Ignition Coil, PTX 40011
Jul-17 PerTronix Ingition Conversion Set, PTX 1181
Jul-17 Spark Plugs, AC R45S
Jul-17 Distributor Rotor, BWD D138
Jul-17 Distributor Cap, BWD C158
Jul-17 Fuel Pump, PFP M23107
Dec-17 Rear control arms, BMR-RSK007R, BMR-RH002
Dec-17 Diff bushings, BMR-BK044
Dec-17 Changed diff fluid, Royal Purple 75W90
Dec-17 Rear Springs, BMR-SP014R
Dec-17 Diff Cover Gasket, RAT-5106R
Dec-17 Cleaned and Painted rear end
Dec-17 Rear Shock Bolts, CH28893
Dec-17 Axle Flange Gaskets, FEL-13394
Apr-18 Pitman Arm, Proforged 103-10041
Apr-18 Steering Rebuild Kit, Proforged 116-10012 (center link, idler arm, tie rod ends & sleeves)
Sep-18 Carb rebuild, done by Cliff’s High Performance
 

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My opinion. Looks like it may have been a pretty rusty car at some point prior to all the repairs. Much bondo and other tricks to hide rusty panels.

Body lines are bad at quarters/door/fenders.

Looking at the picture from the front, the passenger side fender/bumper/grille appears to be pushed up - possible collision damage/bent frame horn?

Needs a lot of work if someone wanted to invest. Would make a better driver as is rather than undergo a big restoration or rebuild.

I would place the value at 8-10K - looking more at the lower end price than the higher end.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
My opinion. Looks like it may have been a pretty rusty car at some point prior to all the repairs. Much bondo and other tricks to hide rusty panels.

Body lines are bad at quarters/door/fenders.

Looking at the picture from the front, the passenger side fender/bumper/grille appears to be pushed up - possible collision damage/bent frame horn?

Needs a lot of work if someone wanted to invest. Would make a better driver as is rather than undergo a big restoration or rebuild.

I would place the value at 8-10K - looking more at the lower end price than the higher end.
I had never considered it might have been in a collision. I just assumed the previous owner assembled it himself and didn't do a very good job aligning things. If I crawled under the car do you think it would be obvious if the frame horn was bent/damaged? Neither of the shops I've take the car to have said anything about it.

Thanks for your feedback! That value is actually right around what I was thinking.
 

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I had never considered it might have been in a collision. I just assumed the previous owner assembled it himself and didn't do a very good job aligning things. If I crawled under the car do you think it would be obvious if the frame horn was bent/damaged? Neither of the shops I've take the car to have said anything about it.

Thanks for your feedback! That value is actually right around what I was thinking.

It could be poor reassembly. Look at the radiator support-to-frame bushings. They could be deteriorated, radiator support rotted away, or even the frame hole rusted out.

To check the frame horn, I would get the car at the same height from the ground (level ground needed here) at 2 points on the frame like right under the frame-to-body mounts at the firewall. Get the left and right side of the car the exact same distance from the bottom of the frame to the ground. Example, if the bottom of the right frame measures 6 1/4" to the ground, then you want the bottom of the left frame at the same point to measure 6 1/4" to the ground.

Once you get these the same distance, you can then measure off the front frame horn to the ground. Use a bolt hole or flat edge on the horn to measure off of and then repeat on the other side using the same reference point.

Check out this diagram of the 1964-'67 frame dimensions. The Chevelle frame is the same as the GTO with a few differences. However, you can get an idea of the measurements. I would also measure the outside of the frame horn which in this diagram shows 35 1/2". Then move back as far as you can go and measure that point to see if the measurements are the same.

Not the best way to do this as a frame machine is the way to go, but it should work to indicate any major bending of the frame horn if your measurements show up to have a big difference between them.
 

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Agreed, I have been watching and searching to score on a GTO / Lemans and have you seen some of the ones on eBay, what are these people thinking, quarters almost gone, no motors / no trans, trunks rotted away, damn, wonder what I could have got for that 73 I had ????? Lol
 

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Agreed, I have been watching and searching to score on a GTO / Lemans and have you seen some of the ones on eBay, what are these people thinking, quarters almost gone, no motors / no trans, trunks rotted away, damn, wonder what I could have got for that 73 I had ????? Lol
Yep, not the range I would pay, BUT, it seems to be the selling range. The refreshed engine, 4-speed, and other mechanical work are what will add to the value. It was most likely an automatic car with 2.56 gearing and must be tough on the clutch to get rolling.

My fear on this one is that it was a car that has been sitting outside for a long time and under the paint is a very rusty body shell. Some guys will take a very poor condition car and do a quick basic clean-up and then throw a coat of paint to make it shine or rebuild only the engine/trans in the rotted out shell and try to sell it. Then they want top dollar.

I think there are many cars with way over the top prices and they never sell either. I see them at the swap meets, cars missing the lower 1/3 of the car because it was dragged out of a field, frames rotted away, no drive train........but it is RARE, so the asking price is absurd. You have to look at what the honest input of labor & materials will cost and what the true selling value would be if you completed the car. More often than not, you will lose money on most of these cars - and most CAN'T be returned to original condition with all the parts missing, even if it is RARE.

The stupid car shows on TV/Cable don't help the hobby and when people watch these, well........ their rusted piece of scrap iron suddenly becomes worth thousands of dollars because one of these car shows whips something just like it together in a weeks time and flips it to a buying customer who just happens to be in the neighborhood looking for that car and has no problem laying out the absurd price tag after a quick walk around. Gotta remember, its a TV show and they have to make it look exciting and that every car has a buyer. I wonder how much is given to these guys to use certain products for endorsements which balances their losses in labor. :yesnod:
 

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Bottom line is, people price items too high, I was just saying their have been some really rough cars listed on eBay and the starting bids seem really out in left field. This guys car has some issues, but to the right guy, it’s doable. Peace
 

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Has a '66 interior....and that rocker rust is the tip of the iceberg. It's a 4-5k car at most, IMO....and not a restoration candidate. Drive as-is. To fix and restore, you'd be upside down in a heartbeat. Talking 40-60k or more to end up with a car worth 20k.
 

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Do yourself a favor and have a body shop
local take a look st it . Spend the money snd get the phs. I don't understand how anyone can give you price without seeing phs and car in person . And to make those statment without the car in front of you is not fair to you. Doug
 
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