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Discussion Starter #21
I live in Maine so I'm all about winter. There's no taking it on the street after the first snow in October until the roads have been washed off by spring rains in May. Just starting it will fill the bowls back up and hopefully keep the bleeds open. As I mentioned though, I do not start mine all winter long. Startron is one of several types of ethanol conditioners that use an enzyme to break down the ethanol. When I say "heavy" I mean double-triple the recommended "dose". It is safe to do so per the label.
Thanks for the details Mine'sa66. I do the same thing, I might be able to sneak out in April but it's usually May until I feel the roads are clean.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Efforting to get in touch with Ruggles... hopefully tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Pertronix HEI I have came with a coil for on top of the cap and the electronics under the cap to replace the points system. It utilizes the stock distributor.
 

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So it has an aftermarket module, but it was and still is an HEI distributor and the .045" sparkplug gap will work fine. Maybe drain the gas out and use it in your lawn mower or daily driver and get some fresh fuel in it.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
So it has an aftermarket module, but it was and still is an HEI distributor and the .045" sparkplug gap will work fine. Maybe drain the gas out and use it in your lawn mower or daily driver and get some fresh fuel in it.
Thanks for the verification.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Talked to Cliff Ruggles this AM. Nice guy, knows his s..t!!! Sent him pics of my setup, told me all about it and how to improve/correct several issues. Most of those issues he noted will make my car run perfectly!! Even offered to look at it in person(turns out he is only an hour or so from me - especially if I have any issues after I rebuild the carb utilizing his suggestions.
 

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Cliff is a great guy, always ready to help, glad he is close by for you take your GTO to. He really does know his s..t.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Problem solved... mostly!!

Before I rebuilt the carb I decided to implemented a couple fixed for issues Cliff saw in my pictures I sent him - figured I would change one thing at a time to see what helped with what and a rebuild at the same time as those other changes I wouldn't know what did the trick .

Now she doesn't stink at idle, doesn't bang/lurch when put in gear (idle doesn't change at all), doesn't want to stall in gear (forward or reverse) and idles perfectly! Drivability has improved drastically, it actually brakes at lights now, it's not like I am holding back a raging bull at a stop light. And coasting is now coasting!! No more idle coasting at 30 miles per hour! ;)

I still have a stumble when hitting the throttle (bad accelerator pump) but I can live with that for now. I'll double check the idle timing tomorrow (no vacuum) and set the proper idle speed - Idle speed changed when I began using the correct vacuum source (one of Cliff's suggestions).

I also gave the transmission it's own vacuum source (Distributor and transmission were together). Now she shifts better (smoother).

I can still burn rubber, she flies on the highway and now is very nice to drive on the street.

Next, spark plug check, vacuum tune air/fuel mixture and a full carb rebuild (not necessarily in that order).

Thanks for all the input gents.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Spoke too soon... ran better or a few trips then "fell off the table". Ran like crap after being hot and had to feather the throttle leaving the line.

Took the carb apart today and cleaned it for a rebuild (as well as a spare carb - have an extra rebuilt kit). Waiting for the JB Weld to cure on the well plugs and reinstall tomorrow. Will redo everything next (timing, idle, high idle etc).
 

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Discussion Starter #32
A mechanic of 40+ years experience moved onto my street recently and offered to help me setup my car (carb, timing etc). At the moment I have 13 degrees initial timing and 42 total. She runs very good but found out my distributor vacuum advance is shot. He also showed me my choke pull off diaphragm was bad. I took the one from my backup carb as it tested good.

He also offered to adjust the valves.

Amazing how many issues I had... goes to show you "don't know what you don't know"!!!
 

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Turn that base timing back to 7 degrees...so you have 36 total until you can get that distributor right....too much timing will cause detonation..

vac advance should be hooked to full manifold vac to aid in your idle timing....
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Thanks Lemans Guy, those are not the final settings - I won't be driving it until everything is fixed. I will redo everything after valves are adjusted and vacuum advance is replaced.

I should have mentioned the 42 degrees was at 4K rpms (wasn't worried about final timing), just set it at 13 degrees base so I can start her and move her from my house to the mechanics to adjust the valves.
 

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Super, that sounds much better. Lots of guys drive around with way too much advance timing, not unusual at all to see 35 degrees centrifigal timing and the base set at 12:eek:r 15!

and then a vac can that pulls 20 more degrees!... but you are doing it all the right way.

perseverance pays off!
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Also forgot to mention, if you are a Quadrajet owner and want to rebuild it or have it rebuilt by a pro look up Cliff Ruggles for the parts or service. The kit he sent me was dead on with what is needed for a full rebuild including secondary plate screws, power piston lock ring (with a slit built in) and secondary actuating cam. The former mechanic I'm working with said he wished he knew about Cliff Ruggles and his supplies years ago. "That was a nice kit" he said a number of times.

I'm like most of you, old school... do good work and I'll sing your praises, do bad work and I'll find another source... Cliff is my source. I bet he forgets more than I'll ever know about these cars and carbs. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #37 (Edited)
Well... Found broken rocker arm studs in engine while doing valve adjustments. Anyone know if the rocker studs go into any water passages? The mechanic I'm working with vaguely remembers they do but we want to conform before starting to disassemble the top of the engine. Also found the studs vary in length like the engine builder just used what ever he had laying around.

Also, anyone "know" these studs are grade 8? The one stud broke inside the lock nut! It's dirty like it's not a fresh break so we surmised it was broken at or shortly after the rebuild.

Thanks for any help in advance, Dan
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Thanks Old Man Taylor... you are correct. Much appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Weelllll....... finally got all the parts... studs arrived last week (grade 8 from Butler), but couldn't get poly locks from Butler (didn't trust the old lock nuts), they sighted supplier issues because of The Rona. Found poly locks at Summit...drove to pick them up after they put my order in limbo for a few days (apparently they have issues shipping because of The Rona)... installed studs and locks then found out I needed stud spacers (washers) because the poly locks bottomed out only when the allen lock screw was backed all the way out... back to Butler for some washers... washers arrived today and I installed them and set the valves. Put everything back together and she roared to life!!!! I'm sure the un-retired neighbors didn't appreciate a 10pm Pontiac 400 start up but I don't care! :)

She sounded and ran great! no more tick and smoooooth! Tick is why I was doing the valve adjustments in the first place... plus it was the first adjustment since the rebuild some 1500-2000 miles ago.

Some time in the very near future I will set the timing (base and total) and let her rip!!!

Oh, almost for got... found some issues as well... while checking the total timing I noticed it "jumped" from x to y. Took out the rotor and noticed some grooves being warn in the "shelf" on the underside. Bought this rotor as part of a HEI kit from Summit. Turns out the under side is 1/8th inch thicker than other rotors (I.E. AC/Delco and Standard) which interferes with the weights travel as mechanical timing increases!

Also found the HEI "brand sticker" had come off the module and was laying across the wiring connection (it's a foil sticker). That can't have been good either... so moral of the story, if you upgrade to HEI make sure the rotor you use has clearance for your weights at or near total timing and remove the sticker!

I also wonder if the new distributor weights are slightly thicker than OE. I will have to pull out the old weights and compare.
 
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