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Good luck with your project. Looks like a good one. Though I've not done business with OPGI, I'm with 052 regarding Ames. Real good folks who know their Pontiacs and great customer service.
 

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Thats the way I like to buy cars....original paint and no primer to cover up bondo. I bought a Z28 once with qtrs primered and was expecting bondo. Just not chicken wire and bondo lol. Nice start there. I used those pistons because the price was reasonable with a 068 cam, ramair manifolds, 2.5 magnaflows, mated to 3 speed dearborn and 3:55 rear. Plenty of power and torque.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Good luck with your project. Looks like a good one. Though I've not done business with OPGI, I'm with 052 regarding Ames. Real good folks who know their Pontiacs and great customer service.
Thanks
Already check Ames and will do business with them 100%
 

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About Butlers parts... The one i find is this https://butlerperformance.com/i-316...pereutectic-pistons.html?ref=category:1459563

This one is w/o camshaft

Check some other in ebay - They call them master rebuild kit and includes camshaft and other bits.

Really, dont know nothing about this 400ci and will need advise, just point me the way to go. If it was 2jz engine no issues at all, but this is new to me :)
You did not metion this and assume you know enough about engine rebuilds, you want to disassemble the engine and hot tank/clean the parts and magnaflux the heads/block/crankshaft for any cracks. Then you can decide how much you might have to bore the block or turn down the crank before ordering any rebuild kit.

I would also consider lowering the compression down to 9.0 so you can run on the lower octane gas. You can do this ordering custom piston AFTER you CC the combustion chambers on the heads so you know how many CC's you will need to build into the piston tops to get you near that 9.0 compression range - unless you want the high compression and can get high octane gasoline.

Using the compression calculator and filling in all the numbers will give you a good idea of what your engine compression will be. You can adjust several of the numbers and then you will know where you can make your changes.

 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
You did not metion this and assume you know enough about engine rebuilds, you want to disassemble the engine and hot tank/clean the parts and magnaflux the heads/block/crankshaft for any cracks. Then you can decide how much you might have to bore the block or turn down the crank before ordering any rebuild kit.

I would also consider lowering the compression down to 9.0 so you can run on the lower octane gas. You can do this ordering custom piston AFTER you CC the combustion chambers on the heads so you know how many CC's you will need to build into the piston tops to get you near that 9.0 compression range - unless you want the high compression and can get high octane gasoline.

Using the compression calculator and filling in all the numbers will give you a good idea of what your engine compression will be. You can adjust several of the numbers and then you will know where you can make your changes.

Of course, I will first disassemble, clean and check all engine parts. I hope to do it in 2-3 weeks. I have restored several Toyota 2jz, 3sgte, 7mgte engines, but it has always been with stock parts.

I admit that I've never dealt with v8 and I've never changed compression before. In my country, gasoline is 95 octane and 100 octane.

Either I will have to think seriously about compression or maybe seek advice from the one from whom I will buy the parts for the engine - Butler most likely.

Thanks for the advice though

P. S. If someone still went this way and has a ready solution, please share it, because I'm not sure I will be able to handle the calculations completely correctly.

Thanks in advance
 

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]]
Of course, I will first disassemble, clean and check all engine parts. I hope to do it in 2-3 weeks. I have restored several Toyota 2jz, 3sgte, 7mgte engines, but it has always been with stock parts.

I admit that I've never dealt with v8 and I've never changed compression before. In my country, gasoline is 95 octane and 100 octane.

Either I will have to think seriously about compression or maybe seek advice from the one from whom I will buy the parts for the engine - Butler most likely.

Thanks for the advice though

P. S. If someone still went this way and has a ready solution, please share it, because I'm not sure I will be able to handle the calculations completely correctly.

Thanks in advance
If you search my post "cracked open my 400 this is what I Found". Maybe it will give you a starting point for your questions. I too had rebuilt/refreshed engines but not a pontiac or a full rebuild. Guys here walked me thru it and all is good now.
 

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1969 GTO, 400, 4sp, Goldenrod Yellow. 2005 GTO, 6.0, 6M, Yellowjacket with dealer installed sunroof
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Also working on a 69 GTO and had some issues with OPGI. Ames Performance has both the knowledge and should have most of the parts with better quality.

I'm from Colorado so good to see a survivor being restored! Can't get over the trailer hitch, but we do some odds things here in CO! Best of luck!
 

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06FC9D05-CC78-4249-909D-8DEDECF768A8.jpeg



Regarding the Data (Fisher Body) plate.

ST 69-24237
Body Style
Year 1969
GTO (242)
2 door Hardtop (37)

BDY BT06136
BT -Body Manufacturing Plant Baltimore
06136 Body Sequence number for that particular plant / date / assembly line

TR 252
Interior Trim - Gold

Paint 63 F
63 Champagne
F (unknown)

03C232
03C Date Built - Third week of March 1969
232 Unknown; Depending upon manufacturing plant this could be options added to the car

Since this is a Baltimore car you may not have the VIN stamped on the frame as done by the other manufacturing plants. If you do it should be located on top of the frame just behind the left rear wheel.
AC528F33-D982-4692-BC5F-2FF3F7FACB54_1_201_a.jpeg


The frame identification is located in the same area but on the side of the frame
tempImageqt18dj.png
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Also working on a 69 GTO and had some issues with OPGI. Ames Performance has both the knowledge and should have most of the parts with better quality.

I'm from Colorado so good to see a survivor being restored! Can't get over the trailer hitch, but we do some odds things here in CO! Best of luck!
thanks

i already chose Ames
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
View attachment 142481


Regarding the Data (Fisher Body) plate.

ST 69-24237
Body Style
Year 1969
GTO (242)
2 door Hardtop (37)

BDY BT06136
BT -Body Manufacturing Plant Baltimore
06136 Body Sequence number for that particular plant / date / assembly line

TR 252
Interior Trim - Gold

Paint 63 F
63 Champagne
F (unknown)

03C232
03C Date Built - Third week of March 1969
232 Unknown; Depending upon manufacturing plant this could be options added to the car

Since this is a Baltimore car you may not have the VIN stamped on the frame as done by the other manufacturing plants. If you do it should be located on top of the frame just behind the left rear wheel.
View attachment 142489


The frame identification is located in the same area but on the side of the frame
View attachment 142490
many thanks sir
 

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I was incorrect when I said your car was built in Baltimore.
BT is Arlington Texas.
BAL is Baltimore

With regards to the numbers following the date code I was wrong as well. That only pertains to the 64-67 models.

From The Chevelle Stuff website;

From 1964 through 1967 some plants would include group option codes while others did not. Beginning in 1968 this feature disappeared as well. The group option codes were to indicate to Fisher Body that something had to be changed from the 'norm' to accommodate an option typically installed by the final assembly line. This could be anything from noting tinted glass (all) or just tinted windshield; a different transmission (automatic or floor shifted manual) required modifications to either major dash assembly or floor pans; air conditioning required a different dash as well as firewall; even something as simple as a rear antenna required the hole to be marked in the passenger side quarter panel for the mounting. Optional equipment that required no modifications or installation by Fisher Body (such as a standard radio) were not noted in these group options.


My apologies.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
I was incorrect when I said your car was built in Baltimore.
BT is Arlington Texas.
BAL is Baltimore

With regards to the numbers following the date code I was wrong as well. That only pertains to the 64-67 models.

From The Chevelle Stuff website;

From 1964 through 1967 some plants would include group option codes while others did not. Beginning in 1968 this feature disappeared as well. The group option codes were to indicate to Fisher Body that something had to be changed from the 'norm' to accommodate an option typically installed by the final assembly line. This could be anything from noting tinted glass (all) or just tinted windshield; a different transmission (automatic or floor shifted manual) required modifications to either major dash assembly or floor pans; air conditioning required a different dash as well as firewall; even something as simple as a rear antenna required the hole to be marked in the passenger side quarter panel for the mounting. Optional equipment that required no modifications or installation by Fisher Body (such as a standard radio) were not noted in these group options.


My apologies.
Not a problem Sir

Thanks anyway
 
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