[oldog97]

Good Morning everybody, this is my first post here, beside my "introductory"
post, I've had a couple 68 goats & a new 72 goat 45 - 50 yrs ago, back in my teen years. I'm now in the market for a clean 68 -69 goat (hardtop) & see that alot of them have a/c, (which I don't need or want,) I want a clean, un-cluttered, easy to access engine compartment. With that being said, what is the "proper" way to remove everything & still have functioning heat & defrost? I don't want to only remove the pump/compressor & hoses, I also want to get rid of that big nasty box attached to the firewall, that I'm assumming houses the evaporator? I appreciate any help/pointers you guys can send my way. Also, if you know of anybody selling a clean 68 - 69, please let me know.
Thank You & Stay Safe out there!

 

[PontiacJim]

Good Morning everybody, this is my first post here, beside my "introductory"
post, I've had a couple 68 goats & a new 72 goat 45 - 50 yrs ago, back in my teen years. I'm now in the market for a clean 68 -69 goat (hardtop) & see that alot of them have a/c, (which I don't need or want,) I want a clean, un-cluttered, easy to access engine compartment. With that being said, what is the "proper" way to remove everything & still have functioning heat & defrost? I don't want to only remove the pump/compressor & hoses, I also want to get rid of that big nasty box attached to the firewall, that I'm assumming houses the evaporator? I appreciate any help/pointers you guys can send my way. Also, if you know of anybody selling a clean 68 - 69, please let me know.
Thank You & Stay Safe out there!

My guess would be that you will need all the parts from a non-AC car. First get a Service Manual for your car which should provide the differences between AC and non-AC.

Send a PM to BLACK69JUDGE as he may have the parts to do the swap.

 

[Lemans guy]

Old dog,..I did this job on my 66 Lemans. First order an AC delete panel. OPGI or NPD or somebody will have some. You will need a box of those caulk like strips for sealing, really important. Not just any caulk will work easy.

I would recommend that you change the heater core at this time, since you will be way in there and you will see that you won’t want to do it again. The evaporator is behind the fender well in the 66 yours is likely similar and you have to remove the front inner fender well. Take off all the compressor and lines and even that big firewall box. Then remove the inner fender and the evaporator. There is one hidden bolt on the fender well you access from the wheel side as I recall. Read up on that and also on removing and installing new heater. Core.

Then reverse it and seal it up, you do have to paint the AC delete panel black before install as it is white molded plastic stuff. But looks fine once installed and really gives you plenty of room inside the engine compartment.

Heater still works great. One added tip when you put on your new heater hoses, put a bypass cutoff in the line. Because on all these cars 24/7 the heater core has hot anti-freeze going thru it. If you put on the bypass, then in the spring you just shut off the heater core.

Now when you turn on your dash controls the blowing air is ambient and really makes things a lot better. Keep all of you under dash ac ducting as it still works really great and blows air thru all the vents when driving...and much cooler inside when heater core is not constantly hot....just turn it back on in the fall!

It gets involved and take your time, but you can do it! Let us know how you do

 

[Lemans guy]

I can’t quite remember how I did that fan.....if I had to buy a new standard heater fan or not....you may have too and 68 or 69 will be different than mine as well

 

[oldog97]

My guess would be that you will need all the parts from a non-AC car. First get a Service Manual for your car which should provide the differences between AC and non-AC.

Send a PM to BLACK69JUDGE as he may have the parts to do the swap.

Thanks Jim, my wife is going to love this, I used to spend all my evening time searching Harley parts on ebay, then, it was reloading components, now it's going to be car stuff again. LMAO, I guess I better get her something too, so that she'll get a package or two in the mail. Time to go on the hunt for parts!

 

[oldog97]

Old dog,..I did this job on my 66 Lemans. First order an AC delete panel. OPGI or NPD or somebody will have some. You will need a box of those caulk like strips for sealing, really important. Not just any caulk will work easy.

I would recommend that you change the heater core at this time, since you will be way in there and you will see that you won’t want to do it again. The evaporator is behind the fender well in the 66 yours is likely similar and you have to remove the front inner fender well. Take off all the compressor and lines and even that big firewall box. Then remove the inner fender and the evaporator. There is one hidden bolt on the fender well you access from the wheel side as I recall. Read up on that and also on removing and installing new heater. Core.

Then reverse it and seal it up, you do have to paint the AC delete panel black before install as it is white molded plastic stuff. But looks fine once installed and really gives you plenty of room inside the engine compartment.

Heater still works great. One added tip when you put on your new heater hoses, put a bypass cutoff in the line. Because on all these cars 24/7 the heater core has hot anti-freeze going thru it. If you put on the bypass, then in the spring you just shut off the heater core.

Now when you turn on your dash controls the blowing air is ambient and really makes things a lot better. Keep all of you under dash ac ducting as it still works really great and blows air thru all the vents when driving...and much cooler inside when heater core is not constantly hot....just turn it back on in the fall!

It gets involved and take your time, but you can do it! Let us know how you do

AWESOME, thanks for all the info! What exactly is a delete panel? Online it looks like a FLAT piece of sheet metal, wouldn';t it need to have provisions to re-install the blower motor? Also, I love the idea about the "inline shutoff valve", makes alot of sense & I never would have thought of that! Thanks again!

 

[oldog97]

Well looks like my search is back on! The 68 Goat I was seriously looking at was advertised by Streetside Classic Cars of Nashville, a beautiful, (in the pictures anyway), mayfair maize (pale yellow) with black top & interior. Consignment & they couldn't let me get in touch with the current owner to ask my boatload of questions. I googled the vin number & saw a ton of pics before the restoration was started. Looks like a junkyard special, plus the info the dealer gave me about the car did not even come close to the description/info on the vin search. They told me it was a 20 year old restoration & the car currently has 75,800 miles on it. On the search, before the restoration was started, the mileage was 75,400 miles. Only 400 miles put on in 20 years? And no matter how nice it looks now, it started out as a broken down bucket of rust. I think I can find alot better for $42,000.00

 

[Lemans guy]

Yes there is a place for the blower I think it goes in the side where the evaporator was, in other words it goes in just like it would on a standard car without AC. But Just read up on that AC delete panel install

 

[pontrc]

Well looks like my search is back on! The 68 Goat I was seriously looking at was advertised by Streetside Classic Cars of Nashville, a beautiful, (in the pictures anyway), mayfair maize (pale yellow) with black top & interior. Consignment & they couldn't let me get in touch with the current owner to ask my boatload of questions. I googled the vin number & saw a ton of pics before the restoration was started. Looks like a junkyard special, plus the info the dealer gave me about the car did not even come close to the description/info on the vin search. They told me it was a 20 year old restoration & the car currently has 75,800 miles on it. On the search, before the restoration was started, the mileage was 75,400 miles. Only 400 miles put on in 20 years? And no matter how nice it looks now, it started out as a broken down bucket of rust. I think I can find alot better for $42,000.00

Yeah old dog be careful with those “Dealers “ better off to buy direct from the owner if you could