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Discussion Starter #1
My 65 when I start it up takes a bit to warm up. So its warmed up and Im driving it about 2-3 minutes from the start I floor it, the car bogs down untill I allow it to warm up for a few minutes more. Im not concerned but can anyone tell me why it needs warming? Sounds stupid but Im curious. Once its warmed it great, lots of power etc.
Also theres a bit of smoke coming out when I start it im assuming its the valve guides and the heads need to be redone.
Any books on just head removal & rebuilds. Does Rockys have a section that does just heads? Or Lars?
 

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check choke settings
 

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The credit card adjustment? It was formally in Salt Lake so thats probably the answer, thanks. Mr Integrity. The former owner said they never adjusted the carb when installed, but they may have adjusted the choke.
 

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The credit card adjustment? It was formally in Salt Lake so thats probably the answer, thanks. Mr Integrity. The former owner said they never adjusted the carb when installed, but they may have adjusted the choke.
Why they need warming..I dont know but my choke works fine and I am sure its open all the way and it still needs to run a little before or it too hesitates. I set the carb with a vacuum gauge and my plugs look good. Just for some reason it needs to warm up beyond just the open choke. Good question, anyone?????
 

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I think there a lot like us old timers, they love to be warmed up in the get go lol. I will let her sit for 7 to 10 let her roll out the driveway and without fail she will bog right when I take off on the main highway. But after that she is fine runs better and better as she gets warm.Best running old car I ever owned.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
It does run nice once warmed. I was thinking might have something to do with the heads needing reworking but I guess not. Thanks for the input fellers.
 

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Gas does not vaporize well when cold. When the intake is still cold it puddles in drops on the walls and floors of the intake....like condensation on the outside of your cold beer.

The choke, chokes off air and makes the mixture richer, that more gas..let’s more gas get thru on a cold engine...enough to make it run.It still puddles, but it has enough..

When you blip it after cold after a couple of minutes ..you are sweeping that pooled gas in and it bogs from the overly rich mixture.....then it does not happen again as the intake is hotter now and less puddling or wall wetting effect.....

Our intakes are called wet intakes because the carbs send that fuel in there atomized...

At least that is my story and I am sticking to it!
 

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Once hot you would get a lean bog, but for the squirt of extra gas from the accelerator pump......the intake is hot then and you need the extra squirt because the fast press of the throttle sends in a bunch of air.......which will bog without the accelerator pump...a lean bog
 

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Its like the old computers. You turn them on go get some coffee use the restroom. Come back and hopefully its up and ready to go. My parents always would send us kids to go start the car to get it warmed up. My first two cars were the same both had the heat damper in the exhaust manifold gutted so they took forever. I would start it up take out the trash or pickup the yard to give it a extra couple minutes.
 

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I would also suspect the exhaust crossover isn't working - like on most of these older cars. That might not be the whole problem but could be a contributor. The exhaust crossover valve would force exhaust gas through the intake manifold to heat it up faster. Most of them 'disappeared' long ago. My spring and shaft are still working but the plate attached to the shaft inside the exhaust manifold is long gone - apparently just rotted away after years of dealing with hot exhaust.
 
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