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So, rear axle bearing failure has now morphed in to a bit more. Trunk pan replacement/differential redo, to include all new control arm bushings/body mount bushings/maybe new fuel and brake lines. Along with complete clean and paint frame and underbody...on jack stands.

Ive been using Eastwood xtreme chassis black for Diff/control arms/sway bar etc. But not sure if I should use this on the frame section where I've cleaned to bare metal. It says it is DTM (direct to metal), but after cleaning with a 3" cup brush, I have a mixture of bare metal and some rust. I was thinking POR 15 or Eastwood rust encapsulator, and then paint, but I think these do not adhere to bare metal.

Should I use a metal prep and then encapsulate? Just use a primer and paint? Or just use the xtreme chassis black...?

Any/all advice welcomed.
 

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Epoxy Primer is good as well as most of the Rust Converter's. I like those as they take care of the tight joints, then paint.
IMO no need for the high dollar and in most cases Re-Labeled products.
JM2C

Cheers
 

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Priming before application of the Eastwood product or POR-15 would defeat the whole purpose of those formulations. They are, indeed, intended to go directly on the bare metal, and there is no harm in using them over smidges of left paint that is well adhered. For the rust encapsulation to work, the special paint has to be on the metal - not on a primer that is on the metal. I have used POR-15 on chassis and steering/suspension components, and have always been happy with the result. It also top-coats nicely with enamel or urethane if you want to go a different level of gloss/satin/flat, or if you want another color altogether (besides standard black). Note that POR-15 is not made to stand up under UV exposure, so you really should not use it on any heavy sun-exposed parts, but underneath the car is fine, even without a top coat.
 
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