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Discussion Starter #1
Sorry as I know this has likely been asked 100M times....I tried searching but could not find what I am looking for.

Essentially my passenger door is poorly aligned and I would like to improve without taking the fenders and hood off the car. I can get to the #4 screws that hold the hinges on the door and chassis, so I think I should be able to make the fit better. What I am hoping to find is a detailed "how to" ideally with pictures. I am looking to raise the rear of the door up.

Thanks in advance for your help....

Chris
 

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64-67 Expert
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8,569 Posts
The huge phillips screws are a one shot deal...strip them out, and you are sunk. Use an impact bit the correct (big) size, and hold turn it with a 5/16" socket over it, snapped into a long 3/8" drive breaker bar, and put a piece of wood behind the head of the breaker bar and against the door. By lightly pressing the door against the breaker bar to hold the screw bit into the screw, you can break the screws loose. Use care. Now, the bolts that are buried under the fender can be easily reached with a GM door hinge wrench, shaped like an 'S'. I bought a whole set of them at Harbor Freight for under $20. NOTE: check your hinges. Most door alignment issues are in reality worn out hinge bushings.
 

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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #3
The huge phillips screws are a one shot deal...strip them out, and you are sunk. Use an impact bit the correct (big) size, and hold turn it with a 5/16" socket over it, snapped into a long 3/8" drive breaker bar, and put a piece of wood behind the head of the breaker bar and against the door. By lightly pressing the door against the breaker bar to hold the screw bit into the screw, you can break the screws loose. Use care. Now, the bolts that are buried under the fender can be easily reached with a GM door hinge wrench, shaped like an 'S'. I bought a whole set of them at Harbor Freight for under $20. NOTE: check your hinges. Most door alignment issues are in reality worn out hinge bushings.
Thanks! For clarification, should I adjust on the door side of the hinge or the frame / body side of the hinge? Thanks

Chris
 

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Registered
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174 Posts
The body side will get you the up and down movement your looking for. Loosen the bolts just enough to move the door up by leveraging by pulling up on rear of door. If you loosen the bolts too much, the door will drop down and chip paint.
 

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64-67 Expert
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8,569 Posts
Masking tape on the door and fender edges is prudent. The door will adjust in many directions. Up and down, in and out, kind of on a 'roll'. The door is aligned to the quarter panel, which is not movable, and the front fender is aligned to the door. Use paint stir sticks under the door to support it and for the proper gap. Also, a padded floor jack can be a big help. It is CRITICAL that the 'roll' of the door is right for the wing vent chrome and the rear of the window glass to mate perfectly with the A-pillar and rear 1/4 window. Too much tilt inward, and you'll damage the vent wing surround, and too much outward, and you will have a ton of wind and water leaks. As stated, loosen JUST enough for slight movements. It took me HOURS to get the door on my '67 right after replacing both door hinges. Total PITA.
 

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Premium Member
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167 Posts
The huge phillips screws are a one shot deal...strip them out, and you are sunk. Use an impact bit the correct (big) size, and hold turn it with a 5/16" socket over it, snapped into a long 3/8" drive breaker bar, and put a piece of wood behind the head of the breaker bar and against the door. By lightly pressing the door against the breaker bar to hold the screw bit into the screw, you can break the screws loose. Use care. Now, the bolts that are buried under the fender can be easily reached with a GM door hinge wrench, shaped like an 'S'. I bought a whole set of them at Harbor Freight for under $20. NOTE: check your hinges. Most door alignment issues are in reality worn out hinge bushings.
What are the sizes you would need for a 68 GTO? I have been looking on eBay and have seen 9/16 and 1/2 inch.
 
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