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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Im taking my 67 back to original, putting back original intake manifold and Rochester carb. I have the intake manifold gaskets, Throttle return spring, Divorced choke, new intake bolts, Is there anything Im missing that you can think of.
 

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Good time to replace the PVC valve, grommet, and hoses. If the valley pan is leaking might as well do the gasket.

If you have power brakes what ever fittings are required for vacuum line.

You are going to have to drain the AF, so depending on what it looks like inside cooling jackets you may want to flush/cleaner
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I sure couldnt do this job without a little help from this forum. all information ive received from everyone is sure appreciated and welcomed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Another question i have is, are the intake manifold bolts installed without a washer? I know the timing case bolt has a weird looking washer or spacer when installed.
 

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Im taking my 67 back to original, putting back original intake manifold and Rochester carb. I have the intake manifold gaskets, Throttle return spring, Divorced choke, new intake bolts, Is there anything Im missing that you can think of.
you didn't mention the bracket that throttle cable / return spring attaches to. I could not find a repo in Ames Performance catalog.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Another thing i noticed is the original intake casting has the words FIREING ORDER casted on it, I dont know for sure but did they spell that wrong, shouldnt it be FIRING ORDER instead.? or was it an honest mistake.
 

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Im taking my 67 back to original, putting back original intake manifold and Rochester carb. I have the intake manifold gaskets, Throttle return spring, Divorced choke, new intake bolts, Is there anything Im missing that you can think of.
I did the same thing last year. For originality you will need the formed metal vacuum line for the vacuum advance, possibly the brass fitting for the back of the carburetor and the formed metal line for the power brake booster. You will need a stainless steel plate that goes between the carburetor and intake manifold if you don’t already have one. Also for originality you can get the plastic vacuum connector and shaped vacuum hose at Ames as well. Make sure your intake gasket set has the seal that goes between the intake and timing cover. You’ll probably need a new steel gas line between the fuel pump carburetor to avoid any splices or rubber/neoprene close to the engine.

Good luck with your project.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Im almost finished cleaning up the intake with a new coat of paint, original carb .installed, so ill use your info to complete my project along with everyone elses input, I will take pics of it all soon.
 

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The carb heat passage directly under the carburetor was a terrible idea and by 1968 model year was nothing but a memory. While you can still obtain the heat resistant lower carb gasket and the stainless plate, it's much easier to simply tap the two holes for pipe plugs and go back to one simple Quadrajet standard gasket. Now is the time to do it while the manifold is off the car and all the chips can be blown off and out of the manifold. I prefer brass pipe plugs but standard steel also will work. Note that the holes do not run straight down and both have a slight angle to them. Tap the holes deep enough where the plugs sit below the gasket surface.
 
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