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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
I called Quadrajet parts.com today and they said i should replace the carb to manifold gaskets with three stages of gaskets, the first one being a composite gasket followed by a stainless steel gasket and then another composite gasket followed by the carb. They said given the age of the carb it was due to the fact that the carb surface are not as straight as when they were new. So now im debating weather to do just that ,to tap and plug the exhaust valley in the manifold, Thanks for that input.
 

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While Quadrajetparts.com provides a great source of hard to find carb parts, the three gaskets they sell come to around $26 before shipping. The plugs allow a simple $5 gasket to be used, and no bottom gasket to blow out. The one year only vents allow hot exhaust gasses right under the carburetor. At least with the standard design the exhaust gasses are at the bottom of the manifold. Here's a photo of the plugs installed in a '67 manifold.
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My guess is it had to do with emissions. The channel would allow the carb to warm up quicker in freezing weather. Unfortunately does a pretty good job of boiling the fuel on a hot summer day. Maybe someone has a better explanation?

The thing we do know is GM abandoned it the next year.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Sounds about right, now i have a stupid question, does the gasket under the carb go on dry or with some sort of gasket sealant like form a gasket?
 

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All input is welcome !!

Threads for the water temp sending unit look a little stripped? Have you tried to install a temp sender in there? Might just be the picture angle.

Don't over tighten the carb bolts as this can warp the top of the carb. Torque to spec. After it runs a little, come back and retorque.

Install the rubber "O" ring gasket at the front of the intake and use a light coating of sealant. Tighten the water pump bolt first to draw the intake tight. Then torque intake bolts. This will ensure no water leaks. Same as carb, run it a little to heat cycle your parts/gaskets and re-torque your intake bolts.
 

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Im taking my 67 back to original, putting back original intake manifold and Rochester carb. I have the intake manifold gaskets, Throttle return spring, Divorced choke, new intake bolts, Is there anything Im missing that you can think of.
Recently had an Edelbrock aluminum intake / Edelbrock 4bbl / MSD distributor removed from my stock 400 engine. The original intake was cleaned, prepped & painted, the original Rochester rebuilt and the OEM distributor 'recurved' (as it was called) so the entire package was functioning together correctly. The first drive was pure joy, but after a few hours of driving I was SURE I had damaged the fuel gauge sending unit (just filled it up) since the gauge was 'stuck' on F. After driving another hour the next day, the gauge finally moved. It feels more 'punchy' when the 4bbl's kick in and the mileage went from utter shite to what you'd expect from a cast iron V8. Now the suspension goes in so I can keep it on the pavement.
 
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