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Checking to make sure your BCM wiring harness is not chafing:

If one removes the glove box, the BCM is visible behind and up to the left under the dash. Behind the glove box once it's removed you will see a metal bracket that runs parallel to the dash with a notch cut out on the right side.

The cable that runs to the BCM runs vertically (which is hidden behind the glove box but visible one its removed) to it but as many have reported I was told, the wiring harness rests against the bracket at that notched cut out. From vibration and over time it chafes against the metal causing the casing to wear through exposing bare wires, some have reported BCM issues and this was found the chafing to be the culprit. A few in our club took their glove box apart and found their wires were chafing as well. My BCM was changed years ago and the new one installed the wires were not in contact.

The fix: Some have added rubber tubing to help insulate it. Although I had no issue and since my glove box was removed, I wire tied the harness to: If you look over at the fender from inside the glove box area there is a round bracket or brace that runs vertical in front of the fender. I wire tied the harness to that bracket just as a precaution. This allows ample room between the wiring harness and that bracket.

To remove the glove box: With the glove box open, look to the left side wall of the interior you will notice a rubber plug about about 1-1/2" long. Carefully pry this off while holding the glove box. There is an identical plug on the right hand side, leave that one alone. Once the plug is removed the glove box will open downward, twist it gently upwards to the right, the glove box will release from a plastic stud sticking out of the dash on the Left hand side. Remove the glove box. To reinstall reverse the order making sure you properly seat that plug, it may take a couple of tries as it must snap all the way in or it will be misaligned.
 

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I recently starting having problems with my gauge cluster and decided to check my wiring since it's been known that some issues with the cluster was a result of the worn through wiring of the BCM harness. Well yesterday I checked mine and sure enough the wires were not only visible but the bracket had cut through the insulation exposing bare wires. I shoved a piece of foam between the bracket and the harness which will prevent the problem from happening again.

To add to Judge's post, here are some photos from another site that shows exactly what Judge and I are talking about. In the first photo on the lower-right hand side you will see the clip that you will have to pull the glove box from as Jugde explained before you can remove it from the left side.







Everyone should check their's regardless of what year your GTO is. Even if you're not having any problems now you still should check 'em out before problems do occur.
 

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I just checked this on mine. 74K miles and I had just a hint of the chaffing. I wrapped it up just in case. I don't even want to know how much it would be to replace the BCM.:eek:

And my temp fix. I'll put hose over it later.
 

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I just checked this on mine. 74K miles and I had just a hint of the chaffing. I wrapped it up just in case. I don't even want to know how much it would be to replace the BCM.:eek:

And my temp fix. I'll put hose over it later.
What size tubing do you think would fit over that? half inch or full 1 inch?
 

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Checking to make sure your BCM wiring harness is not chafing:

If one removes the glove box, the BCM is visible behind and up to the left under the dash. Behind the glove box once it's removed you will see a metal bracket that runs parallel to the dash with a notch cut out on the right side.

The cable that runs to the BCM runs vertically (which is hidden behind the glove box but visible one its removed) to it but as many have reported I was told, the wiring harness rests against the bracket at that notched cut out. From vibration and over time it chafes against the metal causing the casing to wear through exposing bare wires, some have reported BCM issues and this was found the chafing to be the culprit. A few in our club took their glove box apart and found their wires were chafing as well. My BCM was changed years ago and the new one installed the wires were not in contact.

The fix: Some have added rubber tubing to help insulate it. Although I had no issue and since my glove box was removed, I wire tied the harness to: If you look over at the fender from inside the glove box area there is a round bracket or brace that runs vertical in front of the fender. I wire tied the harness to that bracket just as a precaution. This allows ample room between the wiring harness and that bracket.

To remove the glove box: With the glove box open, look to the left side wall of the interior you will notice a rubber plug about about 1-1/2" long. Carefully pry this off while holding the glove box. There is an identical plug on the right hand side, leave that one alone. Once the plug is removed the glove box will open downward, twist it gently upwards to the right, the glove box will release from a plastic stud sticking out of the dash on the Left hand side. Remove the glove box. To reinstall reverse the order making sure you properly seat that plug, it may take a couple of tries as it must snap all the way in or it will be misaligned.
Hi, I have had this drain problem on my 06 battery also, totally stock 60 thousand on it checked the harness got lucky there no cutting going to do the piece of rubber hose and zip ties thank you for that, so I'm checking draw with the negative off across my meter and find that all the 60 amp large square fuses under the hood are drawing with everything in the car off between pulling the main and the engine fuse stops the draw the lightning fuse has some draw also but drops off when the other two are pulled. So reading about the BCM sleeping and remembering why the little relay for the running lights was missing from the rack ( because I'm so smart I pulled it to keep the lights from coming on ) I dug it out from the console and put it back in. Tested the battery this morning after disconnecting the battery last night and putting the deltron gel charger on it, red top gel battery light was solid green on it this morning, tested voltage 12.9 ok started the car fired off no problem no abs flash got 15.1 alt is ok by that I'm guessing might be a little high but now I've shut it off and going to leave it a half day come back to it and check fuse draw on inside and under hood before unlocking or opening doors left windows open to crawl in and depressed pin on grill for hood locked it down left hood open.
Now I was wondering if anyone else has pulled that brain child move and caused the same reaction, the BCM possibly going to sleep because of pulling the running lamp relay and not completing a circuit, also is there a specific fuse that in line with the BCM that I could test to make sure its sleeping or bad one thing I read was they could be set correctly by using a GM tec2 for a time delay is that true. Thank you for you time any any help.
 
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