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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi, Just wanted to start a thread on here about my 1966 GTO I bought in Tucson AZ in 2005. Drove it as is until last year then decided to do a full resto / build on it. Here are some pictures showing what we are doing as we go along. I will post updates as we progress.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
This picture is from yesterday. We ordered Goodmark doors and fenders and did alot of research to see which ones would fit the best. We put these new Goodmark fenders and doors side by side with the originals from the car as soon as they showed up and the largest dimensional discrepancy we found was 1/16" between the Goodmarks and the OEM parts. I think you will probably find 1/16" difference measuring two OEM parts against each other. Everything fit up well when we mocked it up and I am very pleased. The hood and grill header panel are OEM NOS items I managed to talk someone into selling. The Goodmark parts will require very minimal bodywork to get the gaps and edges even and to make them perfectly smooth. I ordered them from LKQ, our collision parts supplier for aftermarket sheetmetal.
 

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I am thinking of going with some Edelbrock heads instead of the stock ones. Anyone have any experience/ recommendations? Here is a pic of its current state, pretty much ready to drop in.
 

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nice car. Im fascinated by your temporary wooden front wheels. Is there any reason why this was more useful than just mounting a couple old steel wheels during the build? I mean, Its obvious they save space for working around, but anything else I'm missing?
Edit: Ok it just occurred to me you may have been experimenting with the stance? Using different diameters to check the stance?
 

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nice car. Im fascinated by your temporary wooden front wheels. Is there any reason why this was more useful than just mounting a couple old steel wheels during the build? I mean, Its obvious they save space for working around, but anything else I'm missing?
Edit: Ok it just occurred to me you may have been experimenting with the stance? Using different diameters to check the stance?
They were required because of the large 13" rotor disc brakes we installed. We did not have an old rim large enough on the backside laying around to clear the brake calipers. Also you are correct, we do use different diameter wood mockups to figure out the wheel & tire sizes for stance, wheel offset and clearances.
 

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Great start :) !

How did you strip the paint ? Are you doing the work or is this a professional shop ?
 

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Welcome to the forum.
I love the signage and the pumps and of course the goat.
Looking forward to more pics as the project moves forward and have stickied this thread.
 

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Are you in Tucson, AZ ? If so, what is the name of your shop?

Thanks

Chris
 

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Is it originally a Carrier Blue Iridescent car, and is it going back to that color...i get so many compliments on mine, it's not a color you see alot.
 

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Is it originally a Carrier Blue Iridescent car, and is it going back to that color...i get so many compliments on mine, it's not a color you see alot.
It was originally a Palmetto green car with a white top and white interior with tri-power and 4 speed. The previous owner changed it to blue with black interior. Not sure what color it will get but it will for sure be metallic.
 

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I am thinking of going with some Edelbrock heads instead of the stock ones. Anyone have any experience/ recommendations? Here is a pic of its current state, pretty much ready to drop in.
I'm late to the party on this one :) Love your work so far. If you prioritize performance over originality then aftermarket heads are the way to go. They have advantages: they flow better, they have hardened exhaust seats so that they tolerate unleaded fuel better, and being aluminum you can get away with more compression --- just to name the big hitters.

One strong recommendation: If you do choose to go aftermarket aluminum, do NOT buy them "ready to run" with valves and springs already installed. There's a reason that the price delta between bare heads and "ready to run" heads is so small. Guess what it is....

The way to go is to buy bare heads and send them to a GOOD cylinder head person to have them outfitted correctly with good valves and good springs, set to the correct pressures and installed height for the cam you plan to run. Witness:

Bear
 

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I'm late to the party on this one :) Love your work so far. If you prioritize performance over originality then aftermarket heads are the way to go. They have advantages: they flow better, they have hardened exhaust seats so that they tolerate unleaded fuel better, and being aluminum you can get away with more compression --- just to name the big hitters.

One strong recommendation: If you do choose to go aftermarket aluminum, do NOT buy them "ready to run" with valves and springs already installed. There's a reason that the price delta between bare heads and "ready to run" heads is so small. Guess what it is....

The way to go is to buy bare heads and send them to a GOOD cylinder head person to have them outfitted correctly with good valves and good springs, set to the correct pressures and installed height for the cam you plan to run. Witness:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OH0-iEIrfv8
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LmVVoUT7Di0&t=315s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N3jn2ER455Y

Bear
Thanks for the info! Never would have thought the A/M stuff would be so bad! :surprise:
 

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The heads themselves are good, some are even great. I'm making really good power with mine, 72cc Round Port Edelbrocks. Fortunately someone I trust urged me to buy them bare and then have them prepped by a skilled head porter. I'm very glad I did.

Bear
 
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