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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,

Still amassing information: What is considered the best shifter replacement ??

I understand B&M has one and one called "Ripshifter" is also available, any others ?? ?? ??

Opinions welcomed on pros and cons of all available shifters !!!
 

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i've tried the stock (naturally), B&M and the GMM Rip Shifter. the stock is crap and very inaccurate. the B&M is better but has had many reported problems with leakage and the bolts staying tight. the pattern is between stock and GMM. i obviously liked the GMM the best. it is tight and rock solid. third is found by just slamming the shifter forward (try that with the stock :)) i've hurt my palm slamming third at the track because it is so solid. every gear is precise. it has external stop bolts to take the curse off of the tranny internal stops and syncros. the only down sides are the cost :( but especially in this case you get what you pay for and the muscle car shifter sound you get esp under WOT (i think it's kewl). Hurst is coming out with a shifter sometime around the end of the year. it uses a "remote" linkage like the stock, uses the stock shifter base and is levered for a shorter throw. i doubt with the linkage setup it will be better. it will be about the same price as the GMM (maybe just a little cheaper) and will not accecpt the stock knob. the Aussies who have used the GMM for years swear by them.
 

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Stock shifter's crap. No problems with the B&M. If you use true red Loctite, as opposed to the red stuff that claims to be the same as Loctite, the bolts will not back out. And if you apply the RTV sealer to the top of your transmission -- you won't get leaks. Why B&M's instructions tell you to put that stuff on the bottom of the base is beyond me -- because if you don't outline the pattern of the transmission case correctly -- the oil's gonna flow.

That said, the performance of the B&M does leave something to be desired. I used to have a Mustang with a Pro 5.0 shifter -- and it worked just how svede says the GMM works in his car. With the B&M -- finding some gears, particularly 3rd, 5th and 6th -- just isn't precise -- where my old Pro 5.0 was almost like a ratchet -- bang, bang, bang, bang.

Yes, the GMM costs a lot more -- and, from what I've heard, is a total pain in the rearend to install -- but if I wasn't working morning, noon and night -- I'd buy one and replace the B&M in my car. Hope that helps.

Would like to know your thoughts on the CTS-V vs. the GTO. Was going to get a CTS-V -- but didn't want to fork out close to $50K with T&L on a depreciating asset. Got my GTO for $25,999 -- and haven't regretted the decision one bit. And the CTS-V's interior isn't nearly as nice as the GTO's.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
My take on the two - CTS-V vs GTO - is that the GTO (with same driveline - yes I know the diff is different) is a much better deal dollar wise.

The CTS seems to be plagued with wheel hop - at least - the two I test drove did (factory has a "biscuit" kit that is supposed to help) where the GTOs I drove did not seem to.

From a personal standpoint, I'm widowed and no children, the two door looks better - although much harder to get into. The rear seats, after you are there, seem to be more comfortable in the GTO than the CTS.

I didn't want all the electronic stuff on the CTS that is standard, didn't want a sunroof (I know there is a delete option, but, you'd never find one on a lot without the sunroof) and didn't want the ON-Star at all.

The road tests - most anyway - seem to show the CTS as being faster 0-60 and it does have a lower rear end ratio, but weighs a little more, so don't really know which would be quicker. Top end, the GTO has a limiter and the CTS doesn't - but that isn't that big a problem to remedy.

I didn't like the shifter in either car - hence my original question - now the next one is where do you acquire the GMM shifter ?? ?? And how much is one ?? ??
 

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The first car that I drove, and the car that I thought that I would buy was the CTS-V. You are right, the wheel hop was awful, and the interior looks like a Chevy Cavalier. Even forgetting about price, the GTO is a much better car.
 

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svede1212 said:
i've tried the stock (naturally), B&M and the GMM Rip Shifter. the stock is crap and very inaccurate. the B&M is better but has had many reported problems with leakage and the bolts staying tight. the pattern is between stock and GMM. i obviously liked the GMM the best. it is tight and rock solid. third is found by just slamming the shifter forward (try that with the stock :)) i've hurt my palm slamming third at the track because it is so solid. every gear is precise. it has external stop bolts to take the curse off of the tranny internal stops and syncros. the only down sides are the cost :( but especially in this case you get what you pay for and the muscle car shifter sound you get esp under WOT (i think it's kewl). Hurst is coming out with a shifter sometime around the end of the year. it uses a "remote" linkage like the stock, uses the stock shifter base and is levered for a shorter throw. i doubt with the linkage setup it will be better. it will be about the same price as the GMM (maybe just a little cheaper) and will not accecpt the stock knob. the Aussies who have used the GMM for years swear by them.
:agree I tried many ways to improve the B&M... however, it just is a poor base design by only using the back two bolts for securing to the top of the original base. I ordered the GMM, and will be trashing my B&M Shifter.
 

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Yes, the stock shifter is a shameful thing. I love the feel of my B&M. If I were to do it again, however, I would avoid the poorly-designed B&M at all costs. It is simply engineered in such a way that leaks are almost a forgone conclusion, due primarily to it's two-bolt mounting scheme. There are just far too many stresses on that adapter plate to not make use those front bolts as well, especially for a high-mileage daily driver.

I think I speak for most of us with B&M installs when I say that ease of intall does not a good shifter make! Besides, the latest revision (v.3.0) of instructions call for those two front bolts to be removed anyway. After struggling for months to keep my B&M install (Their motto: "Marketing before Engineering!") from leaking all over the damned place, I had a shop do this as I found it impossible to budge them- they reported much difficulty in doing the same...

The Harrop looks to be better designed, as does the yet-to-be-released Hurst (stupid-looking white ball and all). They are most assuredly more difficult to install, but the ease-of-install vs. durability is a crappy tradeoff in the case of the B&M as it it a maintenance nightmare. I'm less familiar withthe GMM, but I hear good things about it.
 

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My roommate has a V and it's alot of fun BUT the interior is totally bland, the seats are way to hard (200miles max at a time for me)and the shifter is a POS!! The Stock GTO shifter is considerably better than the V's, it feels like it's attached with worn out rubber bands!! We swapped it for Mallet's shifter and it's night and day difference. Where the V excels over the Goat is in handling and braking. I've tossed that thing around, into 4-wheel drifts in competition mode and it was a blast! It wants to rotate perfectly around it's axis and is totally balanced. The V's Brembo brakes are 14" at all 4 corners with big 4-piston calipers in the front. Cadillac spent the money where it really counted for a performance sedan. As far as B&M vs GMM, I had the B&M first and switched to a GMM.
 
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