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Discussion Starter #1
Just bought a 67 gto, to redo I checked the vin it was a 242 with the rosseta rivits I think but was so excited I did not check the data plate, but it is a 242 but the numbers does not match, then I found a 67 plate with the original book it says 237. So I dont know what to do, Is the vin tag the one to go? Is it legal, I mean I am sick. Thanks Jim
 

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64-67 Expert
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The numbers on the data plate won't match the VIN....they are date and trim code numbers. The '242' should be on both, however. On the trim tag, '242' will be listed right after the year '67'.
 

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Man Jim that sounds like a bad situation. What book and plate are you reading the 237 code from? Body code 2337 would be for a Firebird in 1967.
When you say the numbers do not match are you saying that the body plate is properly coded with the number 42 but the 6 digit VIN on it does not match the VIN plate on the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
both numbers on the vin and data plate are 24207 but the sequence numbers on the data are 202858 and vin100758 should these be the same? then in the glove box I found in the book, these numbers on a metal plate 237177g113427, it was in bad shape but i got the numbers off of it ,I have sent to pontiac for the numbers on the vin. now I just have a bad feeling.
 

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When you say data plate are you talking about the body tag mounted on the left side of the firewall. I just want to be 100% sure that is the tag you are refering to because if it is then yes you might have a problem if the last six on the VIN tag do not match the six digit series of numbers on the top right hand upper corner of that plate. Those numbers should be identical.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
that is what I was talking about the last 6 numbers do not match. What in the world would you do about it to make it legal, I know I cant get my money back
 

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Another place to look. This one is very hard to see and harder to change. If you're lucky with a mirror and something like a toothbrush, you might be able to read it. It's on top of the frame rail, drivers side, usually somewhere between the wheel and the bumper. There's also a vin stamped there. If you can find that one, and if it matches one of the other 3 you've found, then that's probably the correct number.

Good luck.

Bear
 

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Man Jim I hope it works out ok for you. There are some honest reasons why the body tag and VIN do not match in some cases. People have been known to take two damaged cars and build one good one out of the two of them thats for sure. Then as you fear there are other reasons too. Let us know how you make out and I'll keep my fingers crossed for you.
Bear 's suggestion is a very good idea to see if you can eyeball that other VIN. It would go a long way as to giving you a better idea if the car is just a collection of parts from two cars or if some funny buisness happened at one time.
 

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As has been stated, the body sequence number stamped on the DATA tag, on the firewall, will NOT match the VIN tag riveted to the door pillar. That is not an issue. The metal tag in the glove box, also known as a POP, could be from any vehicle and I wouldn't be concerned that it didn't match the VIN either at this point. The big IF here is the rivets on the VIN tag. If they are original, that is the number you want to get PHS for and compare the car to that documentation.

Do you have a clear title for it and does the VIN on the title match the pillar tag ?
 

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As has been stated, the body sequence number stamped on the DATA tag, on the firewall, will NOT match the VIN tag riveted to the door pillar. That is not an issue. The metal tag in the glove box, also known as a POP, could be from any vehicle and I wouldn't be concerned that it didn't match the VIN either at this point. The big IF here is the rivets on the VIN tag. If they are original, that is the number you want to get PHS for and compare the car to that documentation.

Do you have a clear title for it and does the VIN on the title match the pillar tag ?
:agree

The data plate does not match the vin tag number other than the first 6 digits, the last 6 digits on the data plate are the fisher body sequence number, the last 6 digits on the vin tag are the car's serial number.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Here is an up date just got the phs papers it is a gto and it has the orginal engine the colors are all matching so I think I really lucked out. I am glad you guys said the body sequence numbers did not have to match. So I started a frame off, started with floor pans and trunk pan, lots of rot, but I think it will be worth it,since its matchings numbers. and I hope you guys will help me through this process I am 62 and it is hard to remember where all this stuff goes thanks Jim
 

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Here is an up date just got the phs papers it is a gto and it has the orginal engine the colors are all matching so I think I really lucked out. I am glad you guys said the body sequence numbers did not have to match. So I started a frame off, started with floor pans and trunk pan, lots of rot, but I think it will be worth it,since its matchings numbers. and I hope you guys will help me through this process I am 62 and it is hard to remember where all this stuff goes thanks Jim
:party: Congrats on the good news !!!

I just came in from my shop. I welded in the right rear wheel well. Everything is now new from the firewall thru the tailpanel on mine. The one piece cabin and trunk floors are very nice to have....:D

I have pics of some of the work in a restoration thread.
 

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Jim, good luck, we're here to help, and remember: a digital camera is your friend. Take photo's of everything before you take it apart, and label the parts and photos.
 
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