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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Ok guys many of you may remember my post last summer about this 67 gto that got rearended less than 100 miles after its restoration. An old farmer down the road from me owns it and I drive by his house at least twice a day and saw it smashed last summer. I stopped and talked to him and asked if he would sell it. We came to an agreement yesterday and now its mine. I am putting on the lift tomorrow to see the extent of damage that I cant see from laying under it.. I will determine then if I will keep it or turn over to someone looing for the challenge. The car came from Canada. The owner I got it from never even transferred the car. I believe the title will still be clear once applied for in the us. If I decide not to run with the project is anyone interested ???

pics are posted under my profile pics. if anyone knows how to add the pics to the post have at it
 

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Gotta ask what you paid for it. Such a shame but I know that one can be brought back. Nice color combo too with the silver and black top. Looks bad but then I look at that front fender/door gap and think that it could be a not so bad fix.......:lurk:
 

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Certainly fixable we've restored worse.
1 new quarter
2 inner wheel well
3 rear bumper
4 rear valance panel
5 tail light buckets and lenses
6 trunk floor
7 trunk lid
8 trunk lid moulding
9 wheel well moulding
10 rear deck filler panel
11 rear window moulding
12 trunk lock
13 trunk lock tower
14 trunk lid hinges
15 trunk lid torsion spring
16 shock tower deck
17 side moulding
18 frame?
19 fuel tank
20 fuel tank straps
Assorted body work around the sail panel that connects the roof to the rear quarters and Paint. Check for cracked bell housing / transmission shaft.

Do the work yourself $15,000.00 to $20,000.00
Take it to a shop $25,000.00 to $30,000.00

If you do it yourself 20k plus 6k purchase 26k not a bad deal

Take it to a shop 30k plus 6k 36k not terrible but you won't be able to drive it for ??? Might be better to buy a very nice driver for mid thirties. But it can be fun fixing. If the insurance paid PO they may only issue salvage title might want to check that out.
 

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SGC is right on the money. I'll bet Mitch (Too Many Projects) could have it all done for under 10k pretty easily. The car is very nice, just needs the damaged area cut out and replaced. The fit of the front clip, etc. is excellent....better than many 'restored' cars. One thing, though: I'm delighted it's being saved and not scrapped out.
 

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I agree with you geetee it could be done cheaper with the right guy. The difference in 10K and 20K comes down to quality of the paint work and condition of the frame. If you have to slide a new frame under the car everything has to come apart.
I agree that someone should restore it and put it back on the road it is far from a total loss.
 

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Correct. With the way the car is sitting, door gaps and wheel placement, from the photos alone it looks like the frame is OK or if slightly tweaked, pullable with the body on the frame. Frame condition will be a major concern in regards to total cost. It'll be a 'win' if the frame is ok, and a so-so deal if it needs replacing.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I picked up the car today with the trailer. Got it to the shop and the battery was dead. Keep in mind I never heard it run. I jump started it and it fired right up. The car sounded meaner than any gto I have owned. The old guy I bought it from said the motor had less than 1000 miles. I really like the sound of the magnaflows. After getting it started I drove it to the lift and got it in the air. I was very pleasantly surprised. The frame has a minor bend at the very back. an easy fix. The underside of the car is very clean. The interior is near perfect. Looks like a keeper. Paint on the car is very good. I belive it can be painted from rear of doorline back. Looking for full quarter, decklid, tail panel, trunk floor section, wheel house etc.. oh and a rear frame rail for repair.
 

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Looking at the photos I would bet my last dollar the right frame rail is hammered
Probably fixable....but there looks to be extensive compression damage showing on the right quarter sail panel plus the damage on the left quarter would lend me to believe the right rail is
is short and left rail swung to the right
Just a quess .....

Nice car tho..may make a nice project for someone with a collision shop

What would you take for it ?
 

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I picked up the car today with the trailer. Got it to the shop and the battery was dead. Keep in mind I never heard it run. I jump started it and it fired right up. The car sounded meaner than any gto I have owned. The old guy I bought it from said the motor had less than 1000 miles. I really like the sound of the magnaflows. After getting it started I drove it to the lift and got it in the air. I was very pleasantly surprised. The frame has a minor bend at the very back. an easy fix. The underside of the car is very clean. The interior is near perfect. Looks like a keeper. Paint on the car is very good. I belive it can be painted from rear of doorline back. Looking for full quarter, decklid, tail panel, trunk floor section, wheel house etc.. oh and a rear frame rail for repair.
Nice score man! Are you sure you need to replace that frame rail??

My only other concern with this car would be the quarter panel on the drivers side. I don't like how the patched quarter on the passenger side separated where it was spliced in. Can you tell if it was welded or "glued"?

I just love that Silver and Black! Looks mean......:thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #13
quarter was welded but it was spot welded instead of continuous. my buddy owns a body and collision shop. he has a frame rack. he thinks he can pull the frame in place. after he saw it he said its not nearly as bad as it looks
 

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Knew an acquaintance, when younger, who had a 1967 medium-riser 427, dual quad, 4 speed Shelby. He dropped a hard down shift on a damp road and spun it into the guard rail so hard it buckled the roof. His buddy who owned a body shop, pulled it straight, fixed the bent panels, and when done, it was perfect. So it can be done. I'd do the pull first and then go from there. I don't know if you have the frame dimensions, but I believe they are found in the Chassis Manual for your car. Someone else might chime in here to support this or offer a source.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I just wnet through my OPGI catalog and added up what it APPEARS I will need. Im lookin at approx. $3500 in parts. Add another $500 for unforeseen items and I will be close to $4k for parts.

Does anyone have a copy of frame specs they can forward? Gonna put on frame rack tomorrow and start pulling
 

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Woody
I got a old Mitchell crash book at work
I got the frame specs for my sons 68 out of it
I'll check tomorrow morn at 7am or so "PDT" and see if they are there for a 67

Bill
 

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I found those frame specs if you still need them. I would guess they are the same ones that would be in the GM service manual

Bill
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Thanks Bill, I found the specs online, we pulled measurements and the frame is tweaked about 3/16 of an inch. I got the deck lid open and the trunk floor is much better than I expected. I am having a hard time finding the full quarter that extends to the sail panel. OPGI, AMES, and parts place all list them but nobody has them anymore. Any help would be greatly appreciated. We are gonna start pulling the frame at the end of the week.
 

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Thanks Bill, I found the specs online, we pulled measurements and the frame is tweaked about 3/16 of an inch. I got the deck lid open and the trunk floor is much better than I expected. I am having a hard time finding the full quarter that extends to the sail panel. OPGI, AMES, and parts place all list them but nobody has them anymore. Any help would be greatly appreciated. We are gonna start pulling the frame at the end of the week.
You will have to source the sail from a parts car. A full quarter is not made for these cars, and the quarter skin that is available sucks. The wheelwell molding won't even fit the repro skin without modification.
 

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The repro panels are '66, poor quality and need extensive fabrication to work on a '67. Your best bet would be good used parts. There are some Pontiac sheet metal guys on line, like Brian's Pontiac Parts. You also might try Steve Barcak on the pyforums. He has something like 400 cars.
 
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