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Just got back from the dealership (Bowser Pontiac, Pittsburgh, PA). I had to completely replace my front tires last week. Went with the Fuzion ZRi's for 109 a piece. Will let you know how those work out....

So the alignment took about 30 minutes and was done by a guy that works on all the GTO's that come in there. He was "shocked" at the numbers, but said he seen them that bad on others. You tell me what you think.

BEFORE
Front Left
Camber = -0.1 (Range -0.7 to 0.3)
Toe = -0.05 (Range 0.0 to 0.17)

Front Right
Camber = -1.3 (Range -0.7 to 0.3)
Toe = -0.65 (Range 0.0 to 0.17)

TOTAL FRONT
Cross Camber = 1.2
Total Toe = -0.11

AFTER
Front Left
Camber = -0.1 (Range -0.7 to 0.3)
Toe = 0.08 (Range 0.0 to 0.17)

Front Right
Camber = -0.4 (Range -0.7 to 0.3)
Toe = 0.10 (Range 0.0 to 0.17)

TOTAL FRONT
Cross Camber = 0.3
Total Toe = 0.18

Rear numbers were all within specs on both before and after.
I left out caster numbers because they were not measured in the before (at least not showing on my printout).
If I left any details out, please let me know. Hope this helps someone else. As far as them paying for it and a new set of tires, it is working it's way up the chain. I really wish I would have taken this in sooner.

I'll take my end of the blame for anything on this car that I should, but to me, it's obvious that the alignment was off when I received the car.

(And yes, this same post appears on other forums) :cheers
 

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Palmer said:
Just got back from the dealership (Bowser Pontiac, Pittsburgh, PA). I had to completely replace my front tires last week. Went with the Fuzion ZRi's for 109 a piece. Will let you know how those work out....

So the alignment took about 30 minutes and was done by a guy that works on all the GTO's that come in there. He was "shocked" at the numbers, but said he seen them that bad on others. You tell me what you think.

BEFORE
Front Left
Camber = -0.1 (Range -0.7 to 0.3)
Toe = -0.05 (Range 0.0 to 0.17)

Front Right
Camber = -1.3 (Range -0.7 to 0.3)
Toe = -0.65 (Range 0.0 to 0.17)

TOTAL FRONT
Cross Camber = 1.2
Total Toe = -0.11

AFTER
Front Left
Camber = -0.1 (Range -0.7 to 0.3)
Toe = 0.08 (Range 0.0 to 0.17)

Front Right
Camber = -0.4 (Range -0.7 to 0.3)
Toe = 0.10 (Range 0.0 to 0.17)

TOTAL FRONT
Cross Camber = 0.3
Total Toe = 0.18

Rear numbers were all within specs on both before and after.
I left out caster numbers because they were not measured in the before (at least not showing on my printout).
If I left any details out, please let me know. Hope this helps someone else. As far as them paying for it and a new set of tires, it is working it's way up the chain. I really wish I would have taken this in sooner.

I'll take my end of the blame for anything on this car that I should, but to me, it's obvious that the alignment was off when I received the car.

(And yes, this same post appears on other forums) :cheers
:agree , I've seen this numerous times.....
 

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Does the GTO's suspension use concentric bolts like the Vette's? I know the Vette's concentric bolts are notorious for rotating if the car hits potholes, etc.

I actually mark mine (with red nail polish) and check them after each track session. If they move if I hit something, I can put them right back without a detailed check of the alignment settings as I know the alignment will be right where I put it in my garage. :cheers

 

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GTO Camber

I am Roadracing an 05 in T2 and had to deal with this problem in a more serious fashion. To be blunt.... the Macpherson stut style on a 3600 lb plus car is not good. The spindle mounts in the strut and relys on two bolts coming in from the side to pinch the ears of the stut around the spindle. The top bolt hole is ovaled for adjustment in and out. The upper/lower control arm strut system on the F bodies is much more superior even though it is old school technology. There are no cams or locking mechanisms on the GTO. In a hard corner or with a hard hit from a bump the camber can go from + to -. I run mine at -1.9 on the driver side and -2.0 on the passenger side for racing and finally got it to hold by roughing up the side of the spindle that the stut pinches in on and then torque the bolts down to 200 lbs or all you can get! With the camber flopping around that directly effects the toe in and toe out geometry.
 
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