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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, new to the forum. I searched around and didn't see a definitive answer. Just bought an 05 6spd, 45k miles. It needs a minor alignment and a few other little things but i absolutely love it.

The issue I'm having, The car drives fine, but under really hard braking, it pulls to the left. The car does need a slight alignment but the alignment pulls slightly to the right. The pads all look even, slides and brake hardware is all greased and good. Anyone have any ideas?
 

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Wheels torqued properly? Wheels balanced correctly? PSI good? Wheel bearings OK? Bushings? Allignment?
 

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The previous owner said he has replaced all the front busings on the car with poly. Wheels are balanced, the car has drag bags, I'm running 10psi in both bags. Tires are all set at 35 psi.
 

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having a brake pull, could be suspension, alignment, tires and/or brakes.

for suspension, you could have something causing excess changes in camber,caster and/or toe. Tires to be pressure or a belt. Brakes could be a rotor/or caliper concern.

mike
dms
 

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Hey guys, new to the forum. I searched around and didn't see a definitive answer. Just bought an 05 6spd, 45k miles. It needs a minor alignment and a few other little things but i absolutely love it.

The issue I'm having, The car drives fine, but under really hard braking, it pulls to the left. The car does need a slight alignment but the alignment pulls slightly to the right. The pads all look even, slides and brake hardware is all greased and good. Anyone have any ideas?


Get a alignment . Have the rotors checked and maybe turned downed a little.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well i've been playing around with it more, and it only does it high speed (75mph+) and it does seem like the suspension shifts left when it does it, i'm thinking a caliper sticking or something jacked with the left side suspension. I'm taking it wednsday to get it aligned
 

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could be the brake hoses. if one of them is swelling then it could cause a pull
I had that happen to me, the brake hose callapsed internally, looked fine on the outside. It suckd', because I had to drive over 15 miles that way. I get about two break applications before I had to pull over and bleed that brake. That would happen at any speed, and it pulled the steering wheel hard. But my car had over 100k on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
well that's basically what it does, yank the steering wheel. if you take your hands off the wheel, and hit the brakes itll turn to the right on its own and straighten up when you let off the brakes. i've bled the brake system, all new dot 4 fluid, rotated the tires front to back and had it aligned. still does it
 

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well that's basically what it does, yank the steering wheel. if you take your hands off the wheel, and hit the brakes itll turn to the right on its own and straighten up when you let off the brakes. i've bled the brake system, all new dot 4 fluid, rotated the tires front to back and had it aligned. still does it
Jack the front end of the car up. Have someone sit in the car and apply the break, try to spin the wheel. Have them let off the brake while you try to spin the wheel, if it drags then the caliper is hanging up. I would say the brake line is calapsed, not allowing the fluid to return quick enough or like Ruk said. I would buy Russel Steel braded brake lines for about $130ish. Stock flex line is $102 and $160 from the dealer. You can buy a caliper overhaul kit for around $40 if you want to start there first. You can also make sure the slide pins are lubbed up and not rusted also.
 

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check your tires!! I had simular problem but mine would do it while breaking or not , I replaced the Rack and a new set of tires good to go .
 

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If the problem only occurs under braking it either is a suspension shift from a warn componet or the brake hydralics. Lines would be the best place to start you would want to replace both fronts at once or it could just change directions. A caliper rebuild kit can be bought for 10.00 a caliper much cheaper then replacing the unit. Don't forget a rear malfunction will feel like a front one also especially at speed when the rear brakes actually have to work. EI if both left brakes work and only the front right is engaging that would split to power to 100% left and 70% right meaning it will pull you left. It just may only be noticable at speed because usally the front does most of the work. The only other thing would be the master or ABS pump. a clog in the pump could be slightly restricting fluid to one side which could be fixed with a nice long power flush with synthetic fluid. The master splits the brake fluid in a X pattern left front and right rear , Right front and left rear. So a ripp internally in the plunger can cause lower flow to one side and not other.
 

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I had the same problem. It was a caliper slide pin rusted in the caliper.
I broke it trying to get it out and had to drill it out.
O'Reillys had the replacement.

Larry
 

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Discussion Starter #18
ok, heres the update. i installed front and rear SS brake lines, DBA 6x6 front rotors, hawk pads up front, duramax rear pads and rotors, new slide boots and new slides up front. bled the whole system thuroughly. it still has some pull to the right but not as bad. any other ideas?
 

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You could have a caliper hanging up. When you pushed in the piston, did they feel the same side to side?

You should also try swapping tires side to side to verify it is not the tires, then return them

If calipers and tires check out oK, then you have a issue with alignment and/or excess camber/caster toe change. the changes can be a result of weak front and rear radius rod bushings, upper strut bushings, excess wear in balljoint and tie rods.

Best of luck

mike
dms
 
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