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Discussion Starter #1
So my '64 has been running perfectly fine. I hadn't driven it in 2 weeks and went to start it this afternoon. I turned the key, I believe I had power to the dashboard for a brief second but no crank. I also believe I heard a faint noise and now everything is completely dead. No courtesy lights, clock not working, nothing at the ignition switch in any position.
Battery has 12 volts and is brand new. So not the battery.
Where would ALL power be getting cutoff from the car once beyond the battery? I have a solid connection with the negative cable to the engine block. I also have solid connection from the positive cable to the post with the horn relay. Where should I focus on failure points?
What other components are part of resting electrical current?
Does everything run through the ignition switch?
Does everything run through the starter?
Does everything run through the alternator?
Thanks!
 

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have you checked your wires on the starter see if there tight? clean battery and cables.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Does dome/courtesy, headlights, etc. depend on the wiring at the starter? I haven't checked wiring down at the starter itself. It's going to require me to pull the starter to check those. I can but wondering if that's the failure point for all power?
 

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you might also want to check the connection between your wiring harness and fuse box. I don't know about a 64 but on my 68 this is located on the fire wall drivers side slightly to the lower right of the brake booster as you are looking at the fire wall. My money would be on the starter connections/ wires.
 

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Check the connection at the Fuse block bulkhead on the firewall side.
I had an intermittent power loss as you describe and unbeknownst to me one of the retaining tabs on the engine harness had broken off.
This would cause a come and go total loss of power and I finally pushed in on the harness and the power would resume,
happened a few times before I found the actual issue with the tab.
Spent a lot of time looking for and testing things beforehand.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks everyone. I'll be digging in on it this weekend.
I'm still wondering if it's a starter wire, would that kill all electrical in the car?
Could it be ignition switch? I have the same question there. I believe ignition switch only impacts accessory and starting circuit. But can't claim I have much depth on the subject.
 

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First, go back to and start with the battery before chasing any electrical circuit.

saying 12 volts is not completely valid......

A battery is fully charged at 12.6 Volts
It is 75% charged at 12.4 Volts
It is 50% charged at 12.2 Volts
It is 25% charged at 12.0 Volts
It is completely discharged at 11.8 Volts......but below 50% charge it starts it is very weak.

You need to retest with load tester and recharge or swap with a known good battery.

once verified move on to check cables and grounds from battery and at engine frame etc.

Then do your circuit testing, you need full power to test the circuits.

Good luck, you will get it!
 

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PS...Brand new battery does not mean it is at full charge. I test and often have to charge new batteries as they sit on the shelf in the store and discharge as well.....so just make sure before you start!.....
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks. Battery is newer and was on trickle charger. Could that have some how messed it up? I have another good battery so I'll give that a go as the first move.
 

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Thanks everyone. I'll be digging in on it this weekend.
I'm still wondering if it's a starter wire, would that kill all electrical in the car?
Could it be ignition switch? I have the same question there. I believe ignition switch only impacts accessory and starting circuit. But can't claim I have much depth on the subject.
If you follow your positive lead from your battery terminal it goes directly to the starter. you have threee wires on your starter. 1-goes to the positive lead on your battery. 2. Small thin wire goes to the ignition switch and engages the starter when you turn the key to start. 3. this wire goes to the same lug as the battery cable, this feeds your fuse box. I hope this helps.
 

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If you follow your positive lead from your battery terminal it goes directly to the starter. you have threee wires on your starter. 1-goes to the positive lead on your battery. 2. Small thin wire goes to the ignition switch and engages the starter when you turn the key to start. 3. this wire goes to the same lug as the battery cable, this feeds your fuse box. I hope this helps.
One other thing I am not sure about is that some models had a fused link on the wire going to the fuse box. If someone with more knowledge of the 64 model could give you better info on that then me.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks Dean. The 64 actually has a positive junction terminal near the battery. It routes a positive wire to the starter and a positive wire to the fuse block at that junction. So the only wires at the starter are main positive and a purple to operate the solenoid. That’s what has me thinking it’s not the starter wiring since positive wire to fuse block isn’t fed at the starter.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Also, I have a convertible and the wiring for operating the top comes straight off the battery. So going to start by swapping battery even though it’s reading 12.95V on the meter.
 

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Right, It has a surface charge at 12.95, but test it with load tester or swap with known good battery, then verify cables are tight and engine and frame grounds are tight and clean, then start checking your circuits.....
 

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Even a loose battery cable can make it dead...

so do what you are, Battery verified, then Cables verified, then big grounds, then circuit checks
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Update, look no further than the battery!
I had purchased a higher end Diehard battery (if there is such a thing) with a flat top in order to use the vintage battery top. Sure enough, I put my older battery back in and she came right to life!
Sigh of relief as I had just rewired the whole car 2 months ago and didn’t want to have to start chasing that down!
 

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Maybe connectivity,....but did you load rest it?....or just use a volt meter.....

A load tester is the proper tester it checks the amperage under demand or”load”....
 
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