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1967 GTO
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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
I got the harmonic balancer and crank shaft pulley installed. I rented an installer from AutoZone, but didn't use it. I was able to slide it on by hand. This kind of concerned me, but there wasn't any slop... I torked it to 160 foot pounds.

The water pump is installed. To be honest, I'm certain I still have more impeller gap than I should. I didn't have a micrometer at the time, nor a target measurement. After it was installed, I was told it should 25 thousandths. Fingers crossed, that I don't have issues with over heating after everything I've been through up to this point. I had to source some bushings for my mechanical fuel pump. The new timing cover needs 5/16, and my fuel pump needed 3/8, so that's taken care of now.

I got the clutch fan, fan shroud, and radiator installed. I did order a new fan shroud since I wasn't able to repair the crack in the old one. I used cardboard to protect the radiator this time! You can teach an old dog new tricks!

I got the a/c, alternator, and power steering pump installed. Those brackets / bolts were a bit tricky to figure out. They were all removed before I even got the car, so no real reference to go off. I need to figure out a few bolts still.

I called it a night after trying to figure out the air pump stuff. Honestly, I think I'm going to shove anything smog related into a bin and store it. I'll need to research a bit to see if there is anything major to do. I think I need a couple of plugs, and different belts. Anything else I should be aware of?

I need a thermostat too. Any recommendations? I'm going to place another parts order in the next day or two. I have to buy the grill surrounds and parking lamps... Uugh...

I really appreciate all of the assistance. I'm pretty sure I'm doing everything the hard way. Sometimes I think that's the only way I ever learn anything.
 

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I got the harmonic balancer and crank shaft pulley installed. I rented an installer from AutoZone, but didn't use it. I was able to slide it on by hand. This kind of concerned me, but there wasn't any slop... I torked it to 160 foot pounds.

The water pump is installed. To be honest, I'm certain I still have more impeller gap than I should. I didn't have a micrometer at the time, nor a target measurement. After it was installed, I was told it should 25 thousandths. Fingers crossed, that I don't have issues with over heating after everything I've been through up to this point. I had to source some bushings for my mechanical fuel pump. The new timing cover needs 5/16, and my fuel pump needed 3/8, so that's taken care of now.

I got the clutch fan, fan shroud, and radiator installed. I did order a new fan shroud since I wasn't able to repair the crack in the old one. I used cardboard to protect the radiator this time! You can teach an old dog new tricks!

I got the a/c, alternator, and power steering pump installed. Those brackets / bolts were a bit tricky to figure out. They were all removed before I even got the car, so no real reference to go off. I need to figure out a few bolts still.

I called it a night after trying to figure out the air pump stuff. Honestly, I think I'm going to shove anything smog related into a bin and store it. I'll need to research a bit to see if there is anything major to do. I think I need a couple of plugs, and different belts. Anything else I should be aware of?

I need a thermostat too. Any recommendations? I'm going to place another parts order in the next day or two. I have to buy the grill surrounds and parking lamps... Uugh...

I really appreciate all of the assistance. I'm pretty sure I'm doing everything the hard way. Sometimes I think that's the only way I ever learn anything.
If you have the smog pump and related items, your car was most likely from California as they required it for their state. The parts are hard to get and valuble to someone restoring a CA car. Otherwise, take the stuff off and put it in a box. Then work with the belts/pulleys without it. You may have to install pipe plugs into the "067" heads the same way they were installed for non-smog heads that did not use the air injector piping.

As far as T-stat, go with a 160 unless you plan on driving in cold weather and need the use of your heater - then go 180.

Choices are a "standard" style high flow T-stat, or a better style (like Chrysler uses) high flow T-stat - which is what I will be using.

In any event, whatever T-stat you use, you want to either drill your own 1/16" or 1/8" holes in the rim of the T-stat disc. There is one of the better high flow T-stats that already states it has 3 bypass holes, but it does not show in the photo at Summit. I drill 3 holes spaced out. This allow any trapped air to bleed out and if the T-stat sticks closed, allows some of the pressure from the boiling water to escape and gives you a little extra time to find a safe place to pull off the road before a complete boilover out the radiator cap takes place. Also can help coolant drain from the top hose if you have to pull it or drain the system.

Pic 1 is standard T-stat
Pic 2 is high flow design
Pic 3 is someones version of the drilled holes in the high flow design - more than really needed, but you can see where drilled. Do not drill into the gasket/seal area, just inside of it.

High Flow - Typical T-Stat.JPG
Better High Flow T-Stat.JPG
Drill holes.JPG
 

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1967 GTO
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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
If you have the smog pump and related items, your car was most likely from California as they required it for their state. The parts are hard to get and valuble to someone restoring a CA car. Otherwise, take the stuff off and put it in a box. Then work with the belts/pulleys without it. You may have to install pipe plugs into the "067" heads the same way they were installed for non-smog heads that did not use the air injector piping.
The car was built in Fremont, and sold in Bellflower California. I boxed up the air pump this morning and kept busy scraping / cleaning grease, priming / painting parts, and added coolant / oil etc... I'm guessing my a/c bracket is different than one for a non CA car. The air pump bracket slides behind the a/c bracket, and bolts into the block / head iirc. If I understand you correctly, there is a hole in the cylinder head behind the bracket that needs to be plugged (not the holes air injector holes in the brackets). I didn't notice anything at the time because I didn't even realize that there was an air pump involved. I'll have to go back outside tomorrow to remove the bracket to figure out the plug size needed, and take pictures. It won't be a problem to remove the bracket to get to the hole on the passenger side. I think the bracket can be removed permanently, as I don't recall it being of any importance with regards to securing the a/c bracket.

If I were to take the glass is half full approach, then messing with the power steering pump will be practice. Maybe not so bad this time around since I have all of the brackets / bolts figured out. Everything is harder when you are digging through parts just thrown into boxes in the trunk.

As far as T-stat, go with a 160 unless you plan on driving in cold weather and need the use of your heater - then go 180.

Choices are a "standard" style high flow T-stat, or a better style (like Chrysler uses) high flow T-stat - which is what I will be using.

In any event, whatever T-stat you use, you want to either drill your own 1/16" or 1/8" holes in the rim of the T-stat disc. There is one of the better high flow T-stats that already states it has 3 bypass holes, but it does not show in the photo at Summit. I drill 3 holes spaced out. This allow any trapped air to bleed out and if the T-stat sticks closed, allows some of the pressure from the boiling water to escape and gives you a little extra time to find a safe place to pull off the road before a complete boilover out the radiator cap takes place. Also can help coolant drain from the top hose if you have to pull it or drain the system.
No cold weather for me thankfully. I got my fill of cold weather by the time I graduated high school.

The old thermostat is a 180, and it appears to have one hole drilled. I'll probably test it, and put it in the parts bin as a spare. The two bolts I can't find anywhere are the thermostat housing bolts which I know came with the car. I'll order the oem style stud / bolt kit from Ames since I'm buying the grill surround. I didn't see any 160's on Ames site. It's probably overkill, but I'll order the Edelbrock 8603 from Summit and drill 3 holes as you suggested if that's the Chrysler style you were referring to.

Thank you for all of the information. You rock! :cool:
 
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