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Discussion Starter #1
Left me on the side of the road. Pedal goes all the way to the floor and dumping fluid under the vehicle. The bearing had been making noise for about a week.

A few questions:

What is a decent moderately priced clutch and from where do you source? I do NOT drive this vehicle hard.

Anybody got a step by step how-to on transmission removal. Especially tips/tricks.

How do you remove the trim inside the vehicle to get to the shifter?

I've learned that I can use the F-Body throwout bearing to replace the stock bearing. I've also heard that a special tool is required to disconnect the line. Anybody know anything about that?

Going to begin disassembly right away. Any help appreciated.
 

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Left me on the side of the road. Pedal goes all the way to the floor and dumping fluid under the vehicle. The bearing had been making noise for about a week.

A few questions:

What is a decent moderately priced clutch and from where do you source? I do NOT drive this vehicle hard.

Anybody got a step by step how-to on transmission removal. Especially tips/tricks.

How do you remove the trim inside the vehicle to get to the shifter?

I've learned that I can use the F-Body throwout bearing to replace the stock bearing. I've also heard that a special tool is required to disconnect the line. Anybody know anything about that?

Going to begin disassembly right away. Any help appreciated.
sounds like the slave cylinder if its dumping fluid
dont need any special tools as far as i know
get a braided line and remote bleeder while you have the box out
here is a how to its on a commodore but its the same thing basically
Australian LS1 and Holden Forums
 

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Like vxssls1 said, you have a failed slave cylinder. Depending on the miles and having the trans out you may as well replace the clutch. As far as choosing a clutch, do you plan on doing any major power mods in the future?

The trim around the shifter can be lifted off. I normally pull it up towards the rear where the console door is. There is one screw under the small storage bin under the radio. You have to remove the rubber matting/tray underneath it to get to the screw. With a bit of effort the shifter knob can be pulled off the shifter shaft. Just wiggle it as much as you can while pulling straight up on it. If that doesn't work there are four tabs on the shifter that secures it to the shifter shaft. You can use a small flat screwdriver to lift each tab off the shaft. Then you can stick a small object, I used tooth picks, between the shifter tab and the shaft while the tab is lifted. Once you've installed the 4 tooth picks or whatever you decide to use, installed the knob will come right off with little effort. The bracket that holds the rubber boot that's around the shifter has to be removed from underneath the car. I think the nuts are 13mm.

Disconnect the hydraulic line on the side of the trans that goes to the slave cylinder and all the wiring connections. When removing the trans make sure you take the trans off the rear of the bell housing. After removing my trans for the second time I found out that was the best and easiest way. The upper most bolts that attach the trans to the bell housing are a little tricky to get to. If you place a floor jack under the trans and remove the 4 bolts and the trans bracket, you will be able to lower the trans a couple of inches so you can get to the bolts easier. Once you remove the trans, remove the bell housing to engine bolts. Then you can remove the clutch assembly if you have to. Oh and yes you can use a F-body slave. I chose to use a new GTO slave instead. Be careful when you tighten the new slave on because it doesn't take to much effort to strip the aluminum bolt holes. Right now that's about all I can think of because I'm rushing of to work. Let me know if you have any questions and I'll get back to you as time permits. Try to get a remote bleeder line and stainless steel braided lines if you can. You will thank yourself later.
 

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You remove the tranny from the bellhousing first? Most all clutch jobs I do I remove the bell housing from the motor and just leave it connected to the tranny. Or is there not enough room to get the tranny out with the bell housing attached?
There is very little room. It was tough to get it off with the bell housing attached. But it was a major pain in the ass to get it back on. I shaved about 2 hours or more off the removal and install of the trans by doing it the the other way. I destroyed my pilot bearing trying to get it back in with bell housing attached because I had to go in an angle to clear the body. Trust me it's easier to take the trans off first. Here are some instructions from another forum.

Clutch and Flywheel Install

Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited by Moderator)
Like vxssls1 said, you have a failed slave cylinder. Depending on the miles and having the trans out you may as well replace the clutch. As far as choosing a clutch, do you plan on doing any major power mods in the future?
I ended up buying the Perfection clutch kit (Flywheel, plate, disk, pilot bearin & release bearing, lifetime warranty). I plan to keep the car all original with no mods. Based on the amount of noise & burning smell, I'd say that the release bearing failed and the pressure plate is toast. With 47K I might as well replace it anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
. Here are some instructions from another forum.

Clutch and Flywheel Install

Hope this helps.
First of all, many thanks to everyone who posted their wisdom. The clutch replacement was a success and I'm back on the road. The instructions listed above were extremely useful, especially the torque specifications.

You were correct, the slave cylinder was shot. As it turns out, the throwout bearing failed and took the slave cylinder with it.

As I mentioned earlier, I used the Perfection Clutch Set from Advance. It had everything I needed with the exception of the slave. It came with a flywheel, pressure plate, clutch disk, pilot bearing and alignment tool. Quality looked to be very good (at least as good as the original). Around $400. Slave cost another $90.

Some things I learned along the way:

I didn't drop the exhaust and marked/disconnected the drive shaft from the transmission. If you take out the 2 bolts holding the carrier bearing, it gives you room to pull the shaft out and leave the yoke in place. (this keeps the transmission oil in place throughout the replacement). I bungied the drive shaft up and out of the way.

The posters were correct, I don't see how it would be possible to get the transmission out/in by just disconnecting the bellhousing from the engine. The 2 upper transmission bolts were easy once we fastened about 6 extensions together and used the ratchet in the blank area behind the yoke. The natural play in the extensions allows it to curve around the transmission and still gives you plenty of torque.

The shifter DEFINITELY needs to be in 3rd gear position. A transmission jack aids greatly in the reassembly and was able to get it in myself (bad shoulder and all). I think you risk too much trying to use a floor jack.

At any rate, my undying gratitude and thanks to all for your help. Great forum!
 

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First of all, many thanks to everyone who posted their wisdom. The clutch replacement was a success and I'm back on the road. The instructions listed above were extremely useful, especially the torque specifications.

You were correct, the slave cylinder was shot. As it turns out, the throwout bearing failed and took the slave cylinder with it.

As I mentioned earlier, I used the Perfection Clutch Set from Advance. It had everything I needed with the exception of the slave. It came with a flywheel, pressure plate, clutch disk, pilot bearing and alignment tool. Quality looked to be very good (at least as good as the original). Around $400. Slave cost another $90.

Some things I learned along the way:

I didn't drop the exhaust and marked/disconnected the drive shaft from the transmission. If you take out the 2 bolts holding the carrier bearing, it gives you room to pull the shaft out and leave the yoke in place. (this keeps the transmission oil in place throughout the replacement). I bungied the drive shaft up and out of the way.

The posters were correct, I don't see how it would be possible to get the transmission out/in by just disconnecting the bellhousing from the engine. The 2 upper transmission bolts were easy once we fastened about 6 extensions together and used the ratchet in the blank area behind the yoke. The natural play in the extensions allows it to curve around the transmission and still gives you plenty of torque.

The shifter DEFINITELY needs to be in 3rd gear position. A transmission jack aids greatly in the reassembly and was able to get it in myself (bad shoulder and all). I think you risk too much trying to use a floor jack.

At any rate, my undying gratitude and thanks to all for your help. Great forum!
Glad I could help. :cheers
 

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I ended up buying the Perfection clutch kit (Flywheel, plate, disk, pilot bearin & release bearing, lifetime warranty). I plan to keep the car all original with no mods. Based on the amount of noise & burning smell, I'd say that the release bearing failed and the pressure plate is toast. With 47K I might as well replace it anyway.
good luck on that warranty. i haven't seen too many clutches regardless of manufacturer (or in most cases repackager) actually warrant a clutch unless it just falls apart and they're in a great mood that day. glad to hear you got it all on the road again tho. in my case taking the exhaust off is quick and painless and IMHO makes the trans job a lot easier. i've had that sucker off 5 times now. :(
 

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Good job guy you got it, Love the 6 speed had a 91 Vette with 383 stroker. Every time it went in the clutch got smoked to a tune of $1500. The GTO is a auto, no more of that for me. Goog luck.
 
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