Pontiac GTO Forum banner

1 - 6 of 6 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I'm looking to replace the entire fuel system on my '67 GTO as part of finally getting the 400 back into the car.

The 400 currently has the later style fuel pump with the return port.

Looking at AMES, the gas tank kits they sell that use the vapor return all seem to be for 3/8" fuel line, but the fuel pump I have takes a 5/16" line.

What am I missing?

For reference, the parts I'm looking at ordering are:

N129C - 1967 4-BARREL FUEL LINE WITHOUT VENT LINE (RE)
L225N - 1966-67 GAS TANK KIT WITH 1/4" VAPOR LINE, 3/8"
N129PK -
1967 HARD TOP RETURN LINE 1/4" STAINLESS STEEL (RE)
N129PFA - 1967 HARD TOP FUEL LINE 3/8" STAINLESS STEEL (RE)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
912 Posts
My 66 lemans AC car had a 1/4 fuel one return and a 3/8 I believe....that is what the sender had as well, fuel pump has just one outlet as the return line turns bac from the fuel filter which has one int let and two sized outlets.

It is not a vapor line, it is a full fuel return to keep fuel cool....they put it on AC cars and some heavy duty setups....

It prevented fuel overheating and vapor lock...probably where the confusion come in.....

The return line on a 66, maybe the same on 67 not sure, was designed to return from the filter...not from the fuel pump....

Lars wrote about this years ago....and he said that you do want to get. That fuel close to the carb before turn around..to get better cooling...makes sense...

You might have to change fuel pumps....if you are going with 67 sender lines filter etc.....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
121 Posts
What size hard lines do you have running along the frame rail? If 5/16 supply you might just push the 5/16 hose connection in the rear over the 3/8" sending unit. I replaced my lines and sending unit a while back and don't remember running into this prolem. The return line is 1/4" from the pump to the tank.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,611 Posts
Supply line should be 3/8". I've always bought prebent lines, in normal plated steel (not stainless) from Fine Lines or Inline Tube. No problems with either. Stainless just doesn't look right in a restoration. In a few cases, have even used a scotch brite pad to scuff owner supplied stainless lines to make their appearance look closer to correct...still too shiny :(
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
1,499 Posts
Thanks for the tip on Fine Lines PH, I just ordered a set of tranny lines from them.
I made the mistake of ordering stainless and they won't stay in the bracket and I can't get them to stop leaking.
Damn thing is now tighter than Dick's hatband and all tightening it more does is make the leak worse.
100+ dollars in the trash and I will cut the damn thing off so I can pull the tranny fitting with a socket and get it apart in my vise.
Total waste of time and money.
:(
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,611 Posts
Often the problem with stainless flared tubing, got to fight the flare to seal... been there :(

Other than restoring a later model big pickup, longterm tow vehicle, that after all the rust repair, was going to be put back on the road in all the winter slop and salt, its just hard to see a reason to use stainless lines in a restoration. Stainless lines are typically harder to bend, can be tough to seal on the flare, too shiny an appearance for anything close to a Concours restoration. Last, they cost more.
 
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
Top