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Discussion Starter #1
Before I begin this thread I just want to thank all of you folks that took the time to write and try and help me without ridiculing me like some of the other sites did which will stay unmentioned for now.

I'm a first time user in this world of classic cars "and fresh in from the outside world" and just trying to learn our hobby.

Again thank you guys.

OK here's the story:

Just to bring you up to speed with this car that I have owned since September of 2015 and had 2 incredibly incompetent so called GTO restorers work on it and especially the last one in Columbia Tennessee who did not know anything about Automobile wiring totally screw up the restoration.

If you were to ask me at 11:30 AM Monday morning if my wife and I were loading up and going to Gettysburg on an AACA Founders Tour I would have told you NO because I had broken down 2 times before I got it to a new shop called KIWI which is a New Zealand company that works on classic cars.

I even called home from this shop and told my to start investigating flights to NewarK on Sunday, that I didn’t think the GTO was going to make it because we couldn’t find the problem. This was now 8 months of disappointment

I was referred to this restoration shop called KIWI and when I got there I was really only going to have him adjust the doors which he did, but it now this problem exploded right there in his parking lot. He climbs under the hood and all of a sudden pulls a wad of wires that were tape up with friction tape and stuck up under the firewall and over the transmission and he goes while peeling back the friction tape "what the hell is this?!.

He found 3 wires that were twisted together like you were putting up your Christmas Tree lights loosely twisted together with no connection solder or otherwise just stuffed up in the hump of the transmission..

Bottom line he found that because of that there was a drop in amperage in the whole ignition system and there was a depletion of voltage to the electric fuel pump and some of the connectors that I used were connecting to a relay and the fuel pump was shutting down and I was running out of fuel.

Because this guy in Columbia who didn't know what he was doing with the new Auto Wire wiring harness when he was bringing the wires in from the dash to the engine compartment, he just twisted wires together and tried to hide it like you'd hide a cheat sheet for a test in school after you cheated on a test.

So he fixed it by redoing the wiring and connectors that were concerned with all of the electric fuel pump (know this, these 3 wires were initially what started the whole thing even with the mechanical fuel pump) and the overall ignition system.

Right now with fingers crossed I ran it down I65 for 15 miles and back and then took it in town in stop and go traffic and it didn't stall out. Knock on wood it holds and we're going to Gettysburg.

In conclusion am I sorry that I put all of those new parts on the car and made upgrades....not at all I feel better with this electric fuel pump...and I cleared up some potentially bad problems that would have occurred down the road.

So thanks everyone because as it turned out it was a combination of electrical and fuel and drops in amperage all because of an ass hole that didn't know what he was doing and 3 wires.

Stew Long

4,208 Posts
AND THE WINNER IS.............Lemans guy :cheers Where else can you get the best guidance in solving your problems? HERE! :agree

4) But in your facts today you say the fuel pump goes to zero and the car still runs......The fuel pump pressure should not go to zero. it should maintain a regulated pressure, a constant pressure, from the regulator, that the needle seat on the carb regulates demand for.

5) You said the pressure gauge might be wrong, well it might be right as well.

6) you can change the gauge if that is a concern and re-check. So what would cause a electric fuel pump to drop out? one answer is electric problem from the wire feeding the voltage and for the grounds for that pump. Of course bad internal wiring as well. So if this condition happen with a mechanical pump before?

9) when your car heats up, resistance can build up in a wiring circuit, and in your case since the fuel pump PSI drops to zero that is the first place to look.

10) Turning left could cause a loose connection or ground to move or be jostled by the suspension. other places this can happen should be looked at as well.

22) I would start with what that electric pump system requires in the tank, once that is right I would explore the electric to that pump, it should not drop pressure, and just because the car doesn't immediately die is not an indicator necessarily and with a carb the float bowl maintains some gas, so it the pump restarts it mat still run, a modern fuel injected car would die and the pressure in the fuel rail is maintained without reserve.


919 Posts
That is great news Stu and a credit to your perseverance,...and that is for the kind word Pontiac Jim,....I guess even a blind hog finds an acorn now and then.

But the truth is what Jim said, the power of the discussion is in the gang,...I am in awe of Pontiac Jim's knowledge, and on internal engine operations, wow, he is not alone Pinion Head forgot more about Pontiacs that I will ever know, and Geeteeohguy, well solid advice and help to all, Goat Roper he has been there and done that and helps everyone, Bear well he is like Texas guys always willing to help ( I used to live in Dallas),.. Bear knows, nuff said,...there is BigD again engines, racing knowledge you cannot get anywhere.....

So the gang try's, and that is important, but you persevered Stu and thanks for telling everyone, because sometimes you just never hear....

PS some of the guys asking questions ain't no slouch's,....I always have Questions!!!

Now get those Pontiac's rolling:nerd::nerd::nerd:
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