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Discussion Starter #1
The convertible top switch has stopped working on my 1966 convertible. I just spent a ridiculous amount of money restoring this vehicle and the company that did the work is now out of business.

In the interest of budget can anyone point me in the direction of how to trouble shoot this? (ie replace switch? trace wiring? things to check on roof motor?)

Also in the interim is there a way to manually open and close the top?

Thanks in advance
 

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64-67 Expert
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You can manually open and close top if you disconnect the rams from the frame where the eyelet is. Otherwise, no, you will spring the frame. You will need to raise and lower from the center of the car, straddling the trans hump. The switches in these cars don't run relays....it's full amperage draw thru the switch. Not expensive....less than $100. If you are not mechanically/electrically inclined, you need to have the system checked out. If you are ok with doing it yourself, start with the basics. Power to the motor? Yes? Bad motor. NO? Switch or wiring. Etc. etc. Once working properly, these systems are really reliable. I had my cylinders rebuilt when the top was installed 30 years ago, and rebuilt the motor in 1996 when I upgraded to ATF. Been fine ever since. Running brake fluid in these systems as was originally done will cause hydraulic failure due to corrosion issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Much appreciated geeteeohguy, from what I gather replacing the switch can be a bit tricky and time consuming? or is it just taking the dash off?
( read one guy took 8 hrs, I have three young children that are helpers so that's probably 8x3= 24 hours for me :)
 

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64-67 Expert
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Not too hard to do. I think I did mine when I had the cluster out to change the lens on my gauges, though. It's waaaay up there in the corner. A lot of guys install a relay to lighten the load on the switch. I didn't do that, though. We'll see how long it lasts!
 

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Relay?

Hey Geeteeohguy, I'm in the process of replacing the switch in a 68 (was missing as previous owner put a toggle switch in) and figuring out where the original power source is/was supposed to be. How did you wire in a relay? What relay did you use? Pictures? Thanks and sorry for hijacking the original post.

BTW, I was able to feed rage switch wires through the original slot for the switch down to the inside of the firewall. It took a wi
Hole to make all the twists and turns and was upside-down in the foot well for about an hour, but finally got it through. Maybe the same thing could be done on the 66.
 
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