Pontiac GTO Forum banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
1970 pontiac 350 hooked to a th350. After replacing the head gaskets cars been doing great still working out the kinks. Took it for a run the other day about 5 mile round trip, the last light before my turn I was stuck at the light for about 5 min it started to struggle idling then died from the struggle to death it was about 10 sec. It fired right back up then died this is about 3 times finally was able to get it in gear and throttle it and got home with no more issues. Temp stayed around 180 where the t stat is set at idle it holds oil pressure at 25ish under load it goes as high as 60. When parked hot it drips coolant from the back down the k member about a cup or more then stops. I am tempted to point my finger at a warped intake manifold (it was welded after being cracked trying to take out a plug bolt that was locktited on) or a freeze plug in the back. I cant find and puddles or obvious place the coolant is leaking from, anything I can do short of pulling the intake to diagnose?

Thought about the stalling, it might need gas it was showing a quarter tank but my gauge might be wrong? it was the first time other then when the head gasket failed that it stalled out in traffic...I'm more concerned about the coolant leak for now, baby steps...thanks for any input you can offer no idea what I'm doing :crying:
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
1,496 Posts
I had a small leak at the back I couldn't find, it turned out to be the water port at the front of the engine where the intake mated to the head.
It was leaking underneath and traveling down the gasket between the valley pan and the head.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thanks maybe it warped I'll definitely check the front, what was the fix? Intake probably has to come off anyway I'm thinking now.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
1,496 Posts
I used a thin coat of Ultra Blue gasket sealer on both sides of the intake gaskets just on the two water ports.
Make sure to re torque the intake after running it for a hundred or so miles.
You may want to try re torquing the manifold and see if that fixes it before pulling it.
Keep us updated on what you find.
Oil pressure is fine as is temp.
Check fuel filter(s) and look down the into the carb and work the throttle to make sure your accelerator pump is working properly.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
30 Posts
Ditto about checking intake torque. My cast iron 69 loosened up to ~25 from 40 ft lbs, and the alum 67 GP started pulling in coolant (much more steam coming from one exhaust pipe). A couple retorques after driving and both were solid. If not done already, use proper torque sequence. I've seen two
http://www.gtoforum.com/f50/torque-sequence-mains-intake-oil-pan-55778/

you don't have aluminum, but the difference ('spiral') is interesting.
http://www.jegs.com/InstallationInstructions/300/350/350-2156.pdf

Hopefully not rear freeze plugs in head. I've seen some where only paint and rust was keeping water in - you should be able to feel liquid if they're leaking.

Would be nice if dying at idle is related to loose intake manifold.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for all the tips, started it today let it warm up after rechecking the manifold bolts still leaks after I turn it off. The valley pan is bone dry. I think it's time it goes to a shop. While I'm here though any recommendations for a decent replacement pair of valve covers? And is fuel line used for the link between the radiator and the Trans line? That's what my Lemans has on it now and it's old and brittle time to replace. This car is an adventure :)
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
1,496 Posts
I actually checked inline tube first but couldn't find them listed.
Summit will replace or refund no problem.
In any event using hose as a mickey mouse repair can cost you a transmission and that needs to be fixed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
This whole car was pretty much held together by bubblegum when I got it, I've been trying to get it to a reliable point for going on two years. I see the light at the end of the tunnel. The Trans line has 2 areas where fuel line is bridging a gap. Bit off more then I can chew w this bad boy but when it's good it's great lol
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Best pic I could get, this plug looks way more tired then the other ones, and coolant is dripping off the engine mount directly below. Should I suspect this as my leak? It's a steady drip when the front is jacked up about once every 30 sec. Thanks for all your help, but this site has been my best resource so far with my car.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,771 Posts
Best pic I could get, this plug looks way more tired then the other ones, and coolant is dripping off the engine mount directly below. Should I suspect this as my leak? It's a steady drip when the front is jacked up about once every 30 sec. Thanks for all your help, but this site has been my best resource so far with my car.
Are you looking at the block freeze plug? Not uncommon for these to rot away from the inside, have had a number of them go out on various cars.

As it is in a difficult position to knock a new plug in, I simply go with a rubber expandable plug as "the fix." Generally, you can get it pulled/ripped out. You can get one of these plugs to match the steel plug at most any auto parts store. https://www.finditparts.com/products/589063/dorman-02601?srcid=CHL01SCL010-Npla-Dmdt-Gusa-Svbr-Mmuu-K589063-L161&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI4dTGiN_O2AIVwZd-Ch3IYgLSEAQYAiABEgLhJfD_BwE

A co-worker had a freeze plug go on his 1992 S-10 and it was in a tight spot. Told him about the rubber freeze plugs. He got one, installed it, and problem solved without having to pull/lift the engine.
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top