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Discussion Starter #1
Tackling install of ram air manifolds on Brents goat this weekend.
Did the L side first, it looked like the hardest one. Got that side in with a lot of trial and error , cut up hands and more than a few cuss words.
Thought the R side would be a cake walk....wrong.:(
On removing the bolts that hold manifold to head that rear one came out harder than the rest. Shop that did the motor for us must have gotten the bolt cross threaded, of course it had to be one of the 4 bolts that is needed for the ram air manifolds.

Not the best photo but you can see the starting threads are messed up, also bolt is a little bent...glad it didn't break taking it out.


We have all new bolts for the install, I tryed starting a new bolt in the bad hole with just my fingers,it wants to start crooked.
Should we try cleaning out the threads with a tap and die. Would have to use a wrench I am guessing on the bit, not enough room for the handle. If I can get it cleaned out and get the bolt started should we use Lock tight on the bolt, if so what color.
If anyone has any tips or tricks I am all ears. I really don't want to pull the head if I don't have to.

Thanks

Bill
 

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No locktite. What I would do is what you propose. You can chuck the tap in a 1/4" or 5/16" socket, square drive if you have one, and use a small 1/4" ratchet. Go slow, keep it straight, and use engine oil on the tap. The threads are probably only damaged at the opening and first 1/4 inch in or so. There are plenty of threads left to do the job. You have one shot at this, so go slow, and keep it straight. Turn the tap in a little, back it out, turn in some more, back it out, etc. Blow the shavings out of the hole. If you can't save the threads, you'll have to drill it out and install a helicoil, which may require pulling the head. Another thing: If it were me, and there is enough room, I might install a stud in that hole instead of a bolt. That way, next time it needs to be removed, you can just take the nut off and leave the stud alone, which will be easier on the threads. But, due to the design of the manifold, you may not be able to use a stud. Good luck, and let us know what happens.
 

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The only thing I would add to geeteeohguy's comments is to partially fill the flutes of the tap with chassis grease; that will catch the chips/shavings.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Thanks guys
Took GeeTees advise about going slow... at my age that part was easy.
The keeping it straight part tho was a little tougher :lol:
Was concerned about keeping the bit straight, my close up vision ain't what it used to be plus the angle of the head, with only one chance to get it right I decided to cheat a little.
I took a fine file and cleaned off any burrs around the hole. I put on the tap a new nut and a nice smooth flat washer, oiled them up good and used the nut and washer as a guide to keep the tap straight.....I be damned, it worked.
Even a blind squirrel can find a nut once in awhile ;)



Got the threads cleaned out, tried the new bolt and was able to put it in and out all the way with my fingers. Will try to find a stud to use in that hole if I can find one local.
Took a light and magnifying glass to look up inside the hole, threads looks real good.
Hopefully that bolt will tighten up, find out tonight..keep your fingers crossed for me guys. :cheers

Bill
 

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Congrats, Bill. You've taught me something, and I've been doing this for awhile! The idea of a nut and washer to square up the tap is brilliant, and I'm going to steal it and store it away. Yes, if you can install a stud and still finesse the manifold into place, do the stud. The chance of a stud pulling out vs a bolt is much less!
 
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