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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I grabbed this rebuilt 120A CS144 at the junkyard out of a '90 Caddy Deville. This is going in my 68 GTO clone with idiot light for the GEN. The '68 has a DK BLUE and BLK SGL WHITE coming off the stock alternator which head for the voltage regulator (which will be bypassed).

I found this from the CS130 service manual:

Unlike other charging systems which have three wires connected to the alternator, the CS-121 and CS-130 may be used with only two wires connected to the alternator. The output wire to the battery positive, and an "L" terminal wire connected to the charge indicator bulb, or to the resistor, or to both.

Also found:
One wire will connect to the output post on the rear of the alternator and the other will be connected through a dash light or to a switched ignition source.

Which wire is the charge indicator bulb or the resistor on a 68 lemans? Is it the DK BLUE or Blk/White? Is it possible to get the GEN light working with this alternator?
 

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1969 Pontiac GTO
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Remove the external regulator (or leave it in place if you want for appearances, but alter the connector so it's actually not doing anything). This link from a :cough spit: chevelle forum has the wiring connections you need at the former voltage regulator connector in order to make your GEN indicator light work, and also which terminals to use at the alternator.

Alternator Conversion

(Ignore the wire colors in that post and pay attention instead to which terminals are connected to which).

Buried in the text of that link is an explanation of where the alternator connecter terminals go:
"S", this was a heavy gauge, red wire.​
"F", this was a small gauge, brown wire.​
"L", this was a small gauge, brown/red wire.​
"P", this was a small gauge, brown/white wire.​
The red wire from "S" gets connected back to the output terminal of the alternator just like in the "SI" swap.​
The brown/red wire from "L" gets connected to what is shown in the diagram above as the blue wire. It's this wire that comes (indirectly)from the idiot light and it energizes the alternator (and also causes the light to turn off when the alternator is charging - Bear)
The wires from "F" and "P" are not used
So, at the (former) voltage regulator, connecting the "L" terminal from the alternator directly to the (brown in your wiring diagram) wire that goes to the "H" connection on the firewall bulkhead connecter completes the circuit for the indicator light.

Easy Peasy

Bear
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Remove the external regulator (or leave it in place if you want for appearances, but alter the connector so it's actually not doing anything). This link from a :cough spit: chevelle forum has the wiring connections you need at the former voltage regulator connector in order to make your GEN indicator light work, and also which terminals to use at the alternator.

Alternator Conversion

(Ignore the wire colors in that post and pay attention instead to which terminals are connected to which).

Buried in the text of that link is an explanation of where the alternator connecter terminals go:
"S", this was a heavy gauge, red wire.​
"F", this was a small gauge, brown wire.​
"L", this was a small gauge, brown/red wire.​
"P", this was a small gauge, brown/white wire.​
The red wire from "S" gets connected back to the output terminal of the alternator just like in the "SI" swap.​
The brown/red wire from "L" gets connected to what is shown in the diagram above as the blue wire. It's this wire that comes (indirectly)from the idiot light and it energizes the alternator (and also causes the light to turn off when the alternator is charging - Bear)
The wires from "F" and "P" are not used
So, at the (former) voltage regulator, connecting the "L" terminal from the alternator directly to the (brown in your wiring diagram) wire that goes to the "H" connection on the firewall bulkhead connecter completes the circuit for the indicator light.

Easy Peasy

Bear
This is awesome and just what I needed.. THANKS Bear
 

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Is there any reason to add a wire from the post on the ALT directly to the battery?
I ended up adding an 8awg directly to the battery as I have a lot of high draw items ( three fans, 100w stereo amp, subwoofer) so my ignition switch was getting hot because everything was running through that wire, but if you don't have much I would think it would be alright.
 
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