Hi everyone. Im new to the forum but i signed up because my dad has a 68 GTO in the garage thats been sitting for about 15-20 years. I recently took an interest in it and want to get it running. Im trying to motivate my pops to help me out but he feels like theres no hope... But i went ahead and tried to start the engine and to my surprise the engine rolled. i thought there was going to be no response at all, but it actually rolls but doesnt turn on. Is there specific things i should look into first to check? i know i didn't explain in detail but Im wondering if it could be the fuel pump? or maybe something to do with the wiring? Any help would be greatly appreciated! I really wanna see the day that shes on the road once again! Thanks!
EDIT: Pics!
So far thats all i got... cant get good shots because of garage bieng so damn messy. I'll try to take better pics later on.
Next...check to see if you are getting spark. You need to pour about 2 shots of gas down the carb to get it to fire.....Not carb cleaner! If you get it to fire up, Pappy will be out there to help, I gaurentee it!!! :cheers Eric
Turn on the switch and see if you have 10-12 volts at the + terminal of the coil, if yes, check again while trying to start, you should have 12-13 during the start cycle. If yes, pull a spark plug, ground the bottom part of the plug and see if you have spark as Eric suggested,
Thanks guys. Will try out once more with gasoline tomorrow. I'll also try to post some pics by tomorrow, and what kind of tester will i need to check the volts?
Thanks guys. Will try out once more with gasoline tomorrow. I'll also try to post some pics by tomorrow, and what kind of tester will i need to check the volts?
A standard cheap volt meter, set to DC scale 20 volt range, make sure the gas is fresh and not some thats been in a can in your garage for a year or 2.
i doing the same thing with my dads 68(its been sitting for 19 years- longer than ive been alive)! anyways you might also wanna check the spark plug wires and the cap and rotor because they might be send the charge to the spark plugs to get that spark. here a website i found that helps explain some stuff you might need to do to get it started.
great to see some younger guys taking an interest in the classics....you will not be disappointed when they do fire up. If theres any place that can get them running, you found it here. Keep posting and the guys will walk you through it step by step and then you will be HOOKED forever.
i doing the same thing with my dads 68(its been sitting for 19 years- longer than ive been alive)! anyways you might also wanna check the spark plug wires and the cap and rotor because they might be send the charge to the spark plugs to get that spark. here a website i found that helps explain some stuff you might need to do to get it started.
great to see some younger guys taking an interest in the classics....you will not be disappointed when they do fire up. If theres any place that can get them running, you found it here. Keep posting and the guys will walk you through it step by step and then you will be HOOKED forever.
Thanks! I currently own a 92 mr2 actually and I'm in love with my car but when I found some old pics of my dads gto I knew I had to save it from turning into dust in the garage. I have a feeling once shes running I will have 2 loves lol thanks for every ones help!
Quick update, I'm with the car right now and tried gas again in the carb but nothing. I did a little looking around the engine and saw the clear fuel filter. It looks pretty dry. Could this be a fuel pump problem then or the old gas thats been siting in the tank all these years?
you have never felt low end torque until you drive a Pontiac, assuming you have a 400 in your dads GTO, factory it put out around 360hp and around 450+ ft lbs of torque unless it is a RA car (more like 400/500) if you get the motor castings and head castings we can tell you what it is. Assuming it was running when he put it away? I would
1. drain gas and pull fuel pickup to clean sock
2. replace the 3/8" rubber lines from back to front (around 4' should do it)
dont forget the small piece in the rear near gas tank.
3. put a cheap clear inline filter just before the pump, and also put a new one on in front of the carb
4. go and get 5 gallons of at least 93 octane and put it in
5. replace points, cap, wires and plugs
6. clean the carb good
7. drain and check oil for contaminants (antifreeze, water, gas) and refill with Valvoline VR-1 40 wt (has the ZDDP in it the old cams need) and a new filter (i use purilator). and drain and re-fill radiator 50/50 anifreeze/ water
8 . put a squirt of oil in each plug hole
9. make sure you are using a good battery
10. ground a plug and verify the spark is reaching the cylinders
11. FIRE IT UP!!! will probably smoke for a while, then you can go from there
good motor, is it stock or was it build when he swapped it? Does it have HEI ignition? I am betting as soon as your dad hears it fire up he will be out digging into it with you. let us know how it goes. The fuel issue is probably the old lines, they can crack and suck air in without leaking gas...do the lines and then flush it through by taking the line off the carb and holding it in a gas can while someone cranks that will flush the gas up and tell you if your pump is good. if not pumps are 25.00 at the local auto parts may have to wait day for it.
I dont know much about the engine, but i'll ask my dad about it later. I actually took off the fuel pump. it sucks in from one line but doesnt push out any air out the other...so im guessing its the pump. either way i already ordered one. i should have it by monday. So im going to have to hold off on it all til then... plus i gotta start cleaning out the garage to have enough space to actually work.
Sorry for reviving such an old thread, but ive finally got more time to work on the 68. Also dad became convinced and is helping out now . So since my last post, the only thing we were able to do was change the fuel pump. The old one was very stiff and didnt seem to be pumping any fuel at all. after the change, the car still didnt start. So now were going to drain the gas tank. Could someone tell me were the fuel lines are? we see the tank but we cannot find any lines at all. Ive reached my hand and felt all around the tank but nothing. Help please. Sorry again for bringing back such an old thread, its just life gets in the way with our beloved cars at times but now my goal is to get this goat running by the end of summer. im very determined
Sorry for reviving such an old thread, but ive finally got more time to work on the 68. Also dad became convinced and is helping out now . So since my last post, the only thing we were able to do was change the fuel pump. The old one was very stiff and didnt seem to be pumping any fuel at all. after the change, the car still didnt start. So now were going to drain the gas tank. Could someone tell me were the fuel lines are? we see the tank but we cannot find any lines at all. Ive reached my hand and felt all around the tank but nothing. Help please. Sorry again for bringing back such an old thread, its just life gets in the way with our beloved cars at times but now my goal is to get this goat running by the end of summer. im very determined
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Clutch Pedal & Rod Parts List
1 - Grade 5 7/16" x 5" Bolt
2 - INA SCE78 Shell Type Needle Bearing 7/16" ID x 5/8" OD x 1/2" W.
1 - Kit (4 pcs) Clutch/Brake Pedal Shaft Bushings
2 - 1/2"-20 Thread x 1/2" Dia. Hole Right Hand Heim Joint
1 - 3/8" ID x 1/2" OD x 1" L Steel Spacer
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