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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all,

I am new here, I once owned a GTO and regretted selling it. I have been looking at adds lately and my twin found this me Facebook market place. We went out to look at it a few weekends ago and I could not pass on it. Body work and interior has been restored, engine bay could use some tlc.

By the trim tag and PHS documents that I ordered and received the other day the color of the GTO was a Matador Red. Looking the car over once we got it home we could not find a trace of the Matador Red. Whomever did the repaint did a decent job.

With the change of color does that change anything in value etc....

Thanks
 

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With the change of color does that change anything in value etc....

To the numbers/data plate matching Purist it may have a slight downward effect, but as long as the new paint is a factory color and is applied correctly I wouldn't worry to much about it.
Its what pleases you that matters most.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for your response. I already have a red antique attached pic.
Adding another would be over board. Lol

As I am going through my to do list for an engine compartment tune up.

1. Brake booster on my car is black most restored ones I see is are gold ?
2. Spark wires date coded how does one tell early or late code?
3. Spark plugs AC Delco or is the a better choice?
4. More to come ......
 

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Hello all,

I am new here, I once owned a GTO and regretted selling it. I have been looking at adds lately and my twin found this me Facebook market place. We went out to look at it a few weekends ago and I could not pass on it. Body work and interior has been restored, engine bay could use some tlc.

By the trim tag and PHS documents that I ordered and received the other day the color of the GTO was a Matador Red. Looking the car over once we got it home we could not find a trace of the Matador Red. Whomever did the repaint did a decent job.

With the change of color does that change anything in value etc....

Thanks
Looking at the Data Plate, the plant assembly is shown as "FM". Odd. I am assuming that means the Framingham, Mass facility with typically is stamped FRA. You should find the letter "G" in your VIN tag to confirm Framingham. I have a Data Tag off my old 1968 GTO built at Framingham. It is stamped FRA.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Jim,
VIN tag does have the G and was confirmed by the PHS documents that it was built at the Framingham Mass plant.
 

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Jim,
VIN tag does have the G and was confirmed by the PHS documents that it was built at the Framingham Mass plant.
OK, good. That is the first time I have seen the "FM" versus "FRA." Pontiac doesn't always follow the "known rules" that many go by to ID and confirm our cars. I figured the "G" in the VIN code would be what would confirm Framingham and the "FM." ?
 

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1. Brake booster on my car is black most restored ones I see is are gold ?
Should be gold cad plated

2. Spark wires date coded how does one tell early or late code?
Plug wires will be dated one to six months ahead of the build date. Current restoration wires are dated 1st and 3rd quarter of the year. For example car built Dec 67 or Feb 68 would have a 3Q67 wire date.

3. Spark plugs AC Delco or is the a better choice?
Strictly personal preference. I like Delco, others prefer NGKs. 4 barrel GTOs used Delco 44's but they're no longer available except as NOS on Ebay. Most street engines get by with R45's. No need for fancy iridium or split terminal plugs. Just plain plugs work fine.

If you don't have one already, buy the GTO Restoration Guide. Lots of good information but it was last updated in 1995. Lots of new restoration information has become available since then. Lots of good people on this and the PY forums to help with any questions you may have. I'm most familiar with 68s since mine was bought new by my dad.

My wife's and my wedding Limo was a Packard Convertible
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ed and Jim,

Thanks for your replies and answering in my questuons.
I will look into getting a copy of the restoration guide.

The Packard my great uncle bought back in 1958 (was in a garage for roughly 15 years prior). My father bought it from my uncle in 1987 and and when he passed in 1996 he left it in my hands. I did a body off restoration in mid 2000.

For me I more into a driver quality then doing another full blown restoration. But still like to make it as correct as possible.
 

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Finally had a chance yesterday to get out to nephews with my twin to do some work on the GTO.

Took this picture of the stamp by the water pump. It appears this is not the engine that came with the car from the factory. Numbers don't match any part of the VIN.
 

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Finally had a chance yesterday to get out to nephews with my twin to do some work on the GTO.

Took this picture of the stamp by the water pump. It appears this is not the engine that came with the car from the factory. Numbers don't match any part of the VIN.
That is most likely the engine unit number which was used in-house during assembly. The partial VIN is located vertically along the timing cover ( a little above the oil pan) and sometimes actually under the cover depending who/where it was stamped at which factory.
 

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Jim, thanks for the insight next time out there I will take a closer look along the timing cover.

The YS stamp. Does that designate it as a YS engine?
 

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Jim, thanks for the insight next time out there I will take a closer look along the timing cover.

The YS stamp. Does that designate it as a YS engine?

Yes, "YS" is the engine code. 400CI, 350HP, Automatic. The 2 number casting code found at the top middle exhaust port where the exhaust manifold bolts up (both sides) will be "16" or "62" for 1969. You will also see a cast date code just below the valve cover at the back section of the head. You will see a letter & numbers. That is when the heads were cast and will match up with the year of the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Figure I would following to my wanted post here on my restoration thread.
my stupid mistake post

Received the carburetor back from the neighbor today. Looks like the shop that did the rebuild did a decent job cleaning it up.
Now only if spring was here already that way I could get in mounted and take the GTO out for a spin.

By the way it is not a REMANUFACTURER CARBURETOR. That is just the box they package it in.

139731


139733


139734


The way cost was $335 for the rebuild plus another $40 for S&H
 
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