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Discussion Starter #781
My lack of retirement is the cause for the project creep not to mention the kids. I am doing it YoYo style tear it appart in the fall get it running every year for summer.
Been there, took me 8 years to save up for my car AFTER making sure family was set! Hang in there and keep at it! You'll get there and when you do you will be, justifiably, very proud of yourself!!! :D🏎
 

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Discussion Starter #782
Started the restore process... incase there are parts/fasteners I don't have in my kit. Some actually turn out looking like new!!!
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This will need to be fixed.

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Parts in the tumbler after a good soak in a metal cleaner.

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Details hidden by rust appear...

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Actuator mount is almost clean... will remove the rest with paint remover.
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You can see some restored and others not done yet. Soak um, dry um with a hair drier and tumble...
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This is a before and after!

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One of these is not like the other... will ned to be straightened.

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Wash, rinse, repeat...
 

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Discussion Starter #783
Been a touch busy.... paint paint and more paint!

90 percent of parts cleaned and painted... left the other headlight assembly together so I can use it as a guide to rebuild the second.

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Touched up the paint on the bumper after the mounting point fix.

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Notice the "torn" areas where a torch was used to open the mounting holes to allow adjustment of the bumper. They used a badly bent/damaged front bumper bracket. I'm also repairing a small portion of the right frame rail also damaged and butchered by a cutting torch.
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Not bad for a novice... cut a small filler piece from a strip of steel, welded, ground and painted.

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Discussion Starter #784
NOTE: If you ever need to replace your front Endura bumper bracket(s) be forewarned if you are replacing a bracket and using the original front bumper the brackets made today are manufactured to fit a NEW Endura bumper. The lower mounting hole on each side must be modified to allow the lower bumper mount to be completed. Top of the old bracket mounting hole is 8 inches the new bracket is 8 7/8th.

You can see some of the torch damage on the old bracket.

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Soaked larger parts in a 5% cleaning vinegar bath for 24 hours before scrubbing with the kitchen scrubbers from Mrs. Dan's stash. :) Does a really good job of cleaning and loosening rust. A few easy passes with the kitchen scrubber and it's clean for painting. I use an old overheating hair drier to heat up parts to make sure all moisture is removed before painting.

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Ended up getting new headlight actuators as well soooo those get washed with alcohol and cleared with diamond clear. Diamond clear works really well to protect metal from heat and crud.

One came in damaged... Ames reaplced it in just a couple days!

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Painted the new brackets after modification and test fit for the misaligned lower mounting hole. First I used a self etching primer then rust preventive black. They look good, too bad no one will ever see them! :)

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Tomorrow I start reassembly after more test fitting... if the rest of my parts get here.
 

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Discussion Starter #785
Final test fit went perfectly. Now have the new brackets fastened in place on the bumper and waiting for the last of my parts to arrive. Decided to replace all the bushings in the hideaway headlight assemblies to avoid any trouble in the near future. Although the current bushings are ok to eh and since I have everything apart and restored everything else I should replace with new "while I was in there". :)
T-23 days to "opening day" AKA Burnin Rubber Day. a legitimate holiday here in the great North Coast. 🇺🇲
 

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Discussion Starter #786
So... one headlight bucket reassembled with new bushings etc... new actuators cleaned and cleared (background of pic below).

It became clear very quickly that adjustments are going to be needed when assembly is mounted to the bumper.
Precision engineering and assembly was not a high priority 59 years ago. ;)

Note: took a bit of figuring to identify all the proper nuts and bolts needed from the Master Body Kit to reassemble the front bumper. I am not familiar with the terminology used on the bag levels but I took one bag and matched it up with how things had to be reassembled. I. E. 6 nuts attach this, two bolts and U nuts attach this etc etc.

Note 2: the new headlight adjustment screws (and old) have two clips (one plastic and one metal) which must be snapped into place. Ensure clips are seated properly (inside the mounting hole) then slide a 3/8th extended socket over the screw and tap with a light hammer to seat the metal clip.

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Did a small bit of frame work on this rail. It was fairly bent up. Flattening up the surfaces and eliminating bumps allowed the bumper bracket to be adjusted more easily/accurate. Applied a little heat and a dead blow hammer did the trick.

Will have to do a bit more "metal work" on flanges etc to make final assembly go better and fix some of the aforementioned potential rattles.

Also installed the frame seals which were trashed or missing.

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Almost can't tell it was repaired, okay yea it does. Not bad for a rookie. ;)

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Touched up mounting spots... now to start reassembly then rewire headlight, parking and corner light sockets (Most are shot.) and replace vacuum hoses (which started started this whole front end restore project).

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Yesterday I found SEVERAL more missing nuts and or bolts. ALL of which I am CERTAIN will help stop rattles and banging as I drive over bumps on our lousy Ohio roads. Luckily, All the new hardware in the Master Body Kit is replacing the old in the front bumper so I can use those "old" OE fasteners to "fill in" the missing hardware.

Amazing how a car can "appear" to look all-together but in reality it isn't even close. I shouldn't be surprised any longer when I find these glaring oversights or lapses in judgement when it was "restored" nearly 30 years ago.

More to come...
 

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Discussion Starter #787
Well, the next part designed to be used with NEWLY manufactured parts, not EOM, is the hidden headlight door bushings which allow the door to open and close. The new ones (black) are a bit thicker than the EO style (White) and require modification to allow the doors to move freely. I replaced all BUT the door bushings and everything appears to be working well - tested with a 25fcm vacuum pump and by mouth (simulating much lower vacuum levels).

Looks like the headlight in this bucket had been rubbing because it was not snug in its housing.

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Halfway done... looks good and operates as it should... I kept the other subassembly together so I could use it as a guide in reassembling the other side. Those smaller parts are now tumbling in my parts cleaner and the larger parts are soaking in 5% vinegar for a couple days followed by a short soak in metal cleaner and a wash and dry then paint etc.

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P.S. Spring is missing because I had to touch up the paint job...

T-16 days until opening day!!! :geek: mooo haahahahah :devilish:

More to come...
 

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Discussion Starter #788
LOVE vinegar to strip parts... cheap, effective and reusable! most washes off with a stream of water, the rest with a little elbow grease (some times after another soak).

The brown stuff on the bottom appears to be glue used to hold the headlight door front on.

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Just over half done...

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Restoring bolts and screws... adding a coat of rust preventative paint.

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Discussion Starter #790
That must give your salads an interesting taste.:\

I must confess to accidentally ingesting unidentified substances while under my car and talking to someone.
Ha too funny

Helps keep the in-laws away as well! ;)

All kidding aside, it works really well as a paint, grease and rust stripper. Cost is 3$ for a 1.3 gallon jug and it can be reused A LOT or poured into house drains to clean them. It's way cheaper than spending $40 bucks for a gallon of metal prep. I do use metal prep but as a wash to get the flash rust off parts after rinsing vinegar away... that way I use almost no metal prep.

Notice the flash rust after vinegar bath and before metal prep wipe down.
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After the metal prep wash... paint really sticks to metal after this process and is fairly durable given its from a rattle can.

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Here you can see the paint literally falling off in the vinegar.

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next, reassemble the left front... More to come...
 
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