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Discussion Starter #42
It has been a while since I have posted. I am still working on rusted out panel replacement and it is moving slow. I am working on the trunk and the inner wheel wells.

I have been traveling a lot for work lately so I haven't had big chunks of time to work on it, so I have been doing small jobs and pulling together parts lists.

One small job I just completed was my exhaust manifolds. I blasted them and painted them with POR 15 High Temp paint. I used the Manifold color. You have to heat treat them after painting with at least two coats (I put on 3). I cooked them at 400 degrees for 2 hours. I think they turned out pretty good. We will see when I finally put them on.
 

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Discussion Starter #43
I did find a correct Quadrajet carburetor for my car. I won't say how much I paid for it (a little embarrassing) but it was a lot.

Anyway, it is an M6 code. As my car is a late December build, it is the one I was looking for.

I did have a question about the 67 model year codes. I have read that the 67 model year was the only model year where the date codes went to M. Does that make these M code parts even more rare?

Also, I had a question about the 67 date codes. I have seen the following code description online:

A=January
B=February
C=March
D=April
E=May
F=June
G=July
H=August
I=September
J=October (September for 1967 model year)
K=November
L=December
M=December (1966 Only, for 1967 model year)

This implies that in 66, for 67 model year, J was used for October. Does that mean that in 66, October was K, November was L and December was M?

I have also heard that only some 67 plants used this scheme. Does anyone know which ones? I can tell you mine was Kansas City and my car is full of M codes, so I am sure KC is one.

It seems that with this much confusion around date codes in late 66, there could be some latitude on month codes by at least a couple of months.

I figured I would ask all these questions as I am sure others might be confused by these date codes and it would be good to get this documented.
 

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Congrats on locating your carb.

Early Quadrajets skipped "I" in the date codes, so your list should read as follows:

A=January
B=February
C=March
D=April
E=May
F=June
G=July
H=August
J=September
K=October
L=November
M=December

Early 1968s also went to "M" so I don't believe the info concerning "only 67 model year" is correct. At sometime in '68 they moved to a stamped numbers for date code on the main body near the secondary throttle shaft.

Your M6 Quadrajet is rare and expensive, although early high performance carbs (like a Ram Air) are more rare/valuable.

I have the same carb. The "WA" is the plant code. Cliff Ruggle's book states this is the code for where the carb was cast. However, I believe this may be an assembly plant code and used by line workers to identify the correct carb for your engine set-up. I've never been able to locate a full list of plant codes, but my car was built at Pontiac in mid-December 1966 and I also have the "WA" on the tag.

Hope this helps. BTW- the anti stall dashpot on your carb is a one year only piece and very rare. The diaphragms are usually dried out and shot, but nice to have as a show piece. You can test it with a vacuum pump to see if it still holds resistance.
 

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My dashpot is shot on my '67 and it is an A.I.R carb 7037262 stamped on the body without the button.

I bought another one here on the group with the same # also off a '67 stamped on the body.
Both cars were Fremont built.
I cannot find that dashpot in that bracket and have a BB in the hose to stop the vacuum leak.
The one I bought didn't come with it.
I put a HyGrade off the shelf kit in the one I bought to use in the interim while Cliff is rebuilding my original.
I will offer it up on the group for what I paid for it ($400.00) when I get my original back.
 

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Were you able to determine if the AIR cars always had a date stamp rather than a tag? I know it was common to get service replacements that were stamped with date codes.

I had my original dashpot bracket so I tack welded a working dashpot to it. It's not really necessary as they were only used in automatic cars to prevent the throttle from slamming shut during hard braking. My car has the factory a/c and they can also be used to increase idle speeds during summer when the air is running. Nobody reproduces this part so they're very hard to locate.

That's a good price on a '67 carb. Cliff refurbed mine too as it needed some machine work on the fuel inlet. Came out great.
 

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From what I found on the net Ca. cars got the 703 instead of the 702 because of the A.I.R system required by the state.
Not sure what the difference is but the 703s are harder to find and the pics of the others I have seen do not have the button either.
I think they only used the 703s on cars built in Fremont but that is just a guess.
This one was remanufactured by Holley back when they did this and the bushings on the butterflies are not worn like on my original.
Also the air horn on the original has a broken piece and Cliff will have to machine another one and fit it as well as some work on the inlet.
I bought his book as you can see in the pics and did the mods, since we work on boats we had the Marine Tex in the shop.
The original needs work beyond my pay grade so I sent it off to Cliff to do the work and replating.
I know just enough about QJets to be dangerous but the carb works great in spite of that.
:)
As you already know you can get a dashpot but have to tack it onto the bracket, they do pop up on Fleabay but they sell for stupid money and you don't know if it is shot like the one you have.
For now it is just a decoration with a BB in the line to stop the vacuum leak.

I figured I would pass it on to someone on the group for what I paid for it when I get my original back but I wanted a spare in case something happens in shipping.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
I'll have to look at mine closer when I get home. It was on the carburetor that came with the car when I bought it, which was a '71 Carter. Probably a service replacement. I didn't notice a number on it, but didn't look that closely either. I haven't tested the diaphragm yet either.

Honestly, I didn't know it was rare until I posted the pictures and got your feedback.

I'll let you know what I find.
 

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Yeah hard to find part and I want to find another one before I attempt to repair mine in case I screw the bracket up.
I don't do Fleabay and you don't find many Pontiac parts at the car swap meets out here.
The last time I went to Pomona there was only one Pontiac and it was a Catalina.
 

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There's a network of reputable Pontiac parts guys you can tap into before heading off to the repro outlets. Like you, I find the swap meets hit or miss at best when it comes to original Pontiac parts. Try contacting "Pinion head" on this Board. Wealth of historic Pontiac info and if he doesn't have a part he can probably point you in the right direction. IMHO, the '67's are the best looking goats, but a lot of one year only parts make restoration a real PIA.
 

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A few parts were very hard to find, the 6 1/4" water pump pulley was one and the A/C heater box plenum was another.
I needed the inner metal piece because some hack cut the core supports out of it to remove the core from the inside, it was leaking at the neck because it was just flopping around and the solder joint broke.
The fiberglass outer boxes on both of them were so brittle I had to repair the door ears on the best one and reglass it with fiberglass cloth and resin then sand and paint.
Once I got it all back together I hooked the control up to it on the bench and used a vacuum pump to figure out the hoses and test the cans.
Took me a couple of weeks just to restore the unit and install it.
I also had to replace the vacuum can on the firewall side, someone had replaced it with a single port instead of the proper one with 2.
The cable was also installed upside down.
The defrost didn't work and the A/C was on at the same time as the heater so whoever was in there before me had totally screwed it up.
I also had to rebuild the control with new switch leafs, since I do pinball restorations I had all those parts in stock.
I now have a Pontiac/Bally Williams A/C heater control.
:)
 

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Discussion Starter #52
I ordered the spring for the heat riser on my exhaust manifold. It doesn't work. I heated it with a propane torch until it was red hot and it still didn't release. I put the old rusted one on and it worked like a charm. I bought this from OPGI. I thought I would share my experiences with this product.
 

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Discussion Starter #53
I have been working quite a bit, but have knocked out a few other things to keep the project going. I rebuilt my distributor and added the Pertronix electronic ignition module. I will let you know how it works out when I finally build my engine.

I also got my steering box back from Chip at Power Steering Services. I opted for the quick ratio conversion. Notice the date code of 353 6 on the cover. Another numbers matching part for my December '66 car.
 

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Discussion Starter #54
Question on dip stick. I cleaned up my dip stick and it says on it that it takes 6 quarts. Is this correct for a '67 400 with AC and automatic? I thought it was 5. It is kind of hard to see, but it does say 6.
 

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Discussion Starter #55
Last post for tonight. The oil filter housing says PF-7 for the oil filter, but the Ames catalog says the correct oil filter for '67 is PF24. Is that because I have an earlier '67? Based on the date code on the housing, it looks to be the correct date code for my car.
 

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A PF7 is shorter than a PF24, so it's not going to have quite as much filtration area. If the longer filter fits your car (no fitment/clearances issues) there there's no reason not to use the longer filter. Sometimes cars with headers have problems with the longer filter.

Bear

p.s. --- You'll probably tend to get your questions answered more quickly if you start your own new thread with them.
 

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Discussion Starter #59
It has been a while since I posted. I have been making some progress, but progress was somewhat interrupted by a retinal detachment last July. I finally got everything worked out and corrected by mid-January. My vision is basically completely back (thank God), with just a few minor issues. I can see almost as well as I could prior to this incident.

I had been working mainly on replacing rusted out panels and had replaced the two front floor pans, one of the 3 trunk pieces, the driver's inner wheel housing and one of the rear seat pans. I was working on the second rear seat pans when my retina detached. I tried to continue to work on it but it seems you have to see well in order to weld. Imagine that.

I decided to work on the engine and the chassis instead. I think I have decided to replace both rear quarters and figured I would need the chassis assembled in order to replace the body on the chassis to make sure I got the lines straight. Also, I had machined all of the engine parts a while ago and wanted to get the engine assembled before i ran into any rust problems.

I have the chassis and the engine basically complete and will be putting the engine and transmission in soon. I want to get the chassis loaded so I can finish tightening up the suspension and install the Butler exhaust I purchased.

I also got my carburetor back from Cliff's. I had him rebuild and plate it. He said he was not going to plate anymore after mine because of the cost and hassle of the chemicals. Mine might be the last one he fully restored.

Here are a few pictures.
 

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Welcome back, was wondering what happened to ya?! Good to see this wasn't one of those projects that dies half way through. Hope your sight is all fixed and you can keep moving forward. We have to get these '67's back on the road this year!
 
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