Pontiac GTO Forum banner

1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
546 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Got to talking with jetstang last night and we were running the numbers from the 70 GTO I just picked up in a trade.

From what we can tell. Looks like we have a matching numbers 70 gto setting here.

Block is 9799914 YS also has 0358244 on front of block just below the head.
Intake is 242370
Engine is L67 400 (350hp)
Heads are #13 (400 D port, 72 cc with 2.11 Intake/1.77 exhaust


Vin is 242370R141627 (if I wrote that correctly, it was raining on me)


I traded an 83 GMC truck for this 70 GTO , and a 71 GTO.
 

·
Former Moderator
Joined
·
3,523 Posts
Sure looks like it. They also put that motor in a F body. Check the vin on the block. The last 6 digits should match the last 6 on the cars vin....... Nice score......

 

·
Former Moderator
Joined
·
3,523 Posts
Very cool. That motor came with that car when it left the assembly line. I'm assuming you have an auto tranny? You can check the trans unit number(mine is supposed to be F06P8C15, this is a 4spd however) 8 being the year, '68. I have no idea how to decode that number. Maybe someone can point us both in the right direction. Also check the rearend. Date code by the cover, ex B120. 0 being the year. I believe all 70's had the same casting number, I forget what it is offhand. To see if it's the original rear, you will need the PHS doc to match up the 2 letter axle code which is located on the rear of the tube, drivers side. Will start with a W or X. X being safe-t-track. Then you would have to verify the gear against PHS. It's possible the whole drivetrain is matching!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
546 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Im about to call PHS, and order my documents. $65 though! I was told it was $50 and I read on other sites that its $35. WHO KNOWS? If they can fax it to me today. Im gonna pay the extra cost. If not then I will wait.

Yeah it is an auto trans. I sure hope its matching also. But I got a feeling the rearend isnt. I do not see the lubricant tag on it. But thats not to say one day someone just left it off. I do know its a 10 bolt. I gotta get it off the trailer and up on my lift and do some investigating.
 

·
Former Moderator
Joined
·
3,523 Posts
I'm not sure what the cost is nowadys for PHS. I'm sure they charge a little extra to have it faxed instantly.

Don't worry about the tag. I'm sure it was lost a long time ago. Codes are king!

Good luck.............
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
546 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Ok I just ordered the PHS and the fax will be here today. Went ahead and paid for a copy of the factory window sticker.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
546 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Ok its $65 for the PHS docs. $15 to have it faxed. And another $30 for the window sticker. I went ahead and went all out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
546 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
The question now would be if this thing is all numbers matching. Do I restore it? Or sell it? Since I have already began restoration on my 71 lemans which is actually in a little bit better shape. Im torn.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
5,791 Posts
Block is 9799914 YS also has 0358244 on front of block just below the head.
You done good. If you pull the pan you'll find that block is drilled for 4-bolt main caps, even though it might only have 2-bolt caps installed. That's the same block casting that was used for RamAir III 400's.

Bear
 

·
Former Moderator
Joined
·
2,895 Posts
Yes, you can put 4 bolt caps on it but the block must be line bored. Not worth it or neccasary unless you plan to exceed 550 hp or run buttloads of nitrous. I'd replace the stock rods before I worried about 4 bolt mains. JMHO :cheers

BTW Atoll blue w/blue gut and air would be a dreamy cruiser. I'll bet she was a stunner when new.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
5,791 Posts
Yes, you can put 4 bolt caps on it but the block must be line bored. Not worth it or neccasary unless you plan to exceed 550 hp or run buttloads of nitrous. I'd replace the stock rods before I worried about 4 bolt mains.
:agree Definitely agree. It's nice to have the 4-bolt option in case you decide to build a serious motor sometime down the road, but spend your money on good rods first. There are lots of choices out there now for forged H-Beams for not much more than you'd spend having the factory rods tested and reconditioned/balanced anyway.

Bear
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top