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You are somewhat limited if you stick with 15" wheels. Right Stuff and SSBC are options, but you can find the kits a bit cheaper if you wait and look. (Check eBay.)
 

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Getting my 4-wheel disc brake Right Stuff kit installed now on my '68 GTO along with new 15" wheels. Paid $1500 for the top-of-the-line package (AFXDC46CZX) along with new stainless lines, I'm taking zero chances with this part. They told me they have it all fitted after having to do some minor modifications to the car, which is apparently par-for-the-course.
 

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I used the Right Stuff Kit, only thing I dont like so far is the Power Boost angle when installed is tipped back to the driver....IE not as level as OEM. I am told this will not cause an issue but time will tell when I finish the install. BTW the kit you linked too is for 14" wheels so make sure you order the right kit.
 

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installed right stuff drilled and slotted discs 8 years ago and they still look new and stop the car on a dime compared to the drums. One of the best non original upgrades you can do especially if you have a lot of horses and like to let them run. Installation was straight forward and i believe the only alteration was to enlarge one hole on the original mounting bracket. I would also recommend the stainless lines as they do not expand and when you hit the pedal you get instant pressure to the pads with a nice firm pedal. when i bought mine they were offering the lines as an added incentive. Money well spent to be safe hot drum brakes stopping a 4300 lb car from 80 can get a little sketchy. First, and only time the wife drove my car just after shaking it down some idiot cut in front of her at 50, had to lock them up and the car tracked straight and true while steering out to avoid him. They also use the 70's single piston GM caliper so you can get stock semi-metallic pads from any auto parts store for a reasonable price.
 

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Did a Wilwood install a couple years back. Unfortunately, the cost was quite a bit higher than than the $500 you're looking to spend. I went with the kit that came with the two piece rotors that does fit under 15" Ralley IIs. Wilwood has a kit that uses a one piece rotor that is closer to your budget that looks pretty good. Other than the rotors, it looks to be the same as the light wight kit (calipers, mounting brackets, etc).

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-140-15272/overview/year/1970/make/pontiac/model/lemans

Downside is you will still need the master cylinder and a proportioning valve which adds cost. I kept mine as manual brakes which eliminated the cost of a booster but added the issue that inline tubes does not sell a pre-bent line kit for manual brake applications. I had to make the ones available for power brake applications work. I swapped out all the brakes lines front to back during the install. The worst part of the install was having to drill out and tap one of the drum mount holes on the original spindle. I posted some pictures on here back when I did the swap.

I agree with instg8ter. If you're running drums, this is the best upgrade you can do whatever direction you take it in. Good luck and keep us posted with what you decide.
 

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If you are open to 17" + wheels, then the Corvette LS1 brake upgrade is awesome (13" rotors and very effective large 2 piston calipers) and bolts up to factory spindles.....
 

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Getting my 4-wheel disc brake Right Stuff kit installed now on my '68 GTO along with new 15" wheels. Paid $1500 for the top-of-the-line package (AFXDC46CZX) along with new stainless lines, I'm taking zero chances with this part. They told me they have it all fitted after having to do some minor modifications to the car, which is apparently par-for-the-course.
Welp... after weeks of struggling with this kit (need to modify the axle, a completely bogus caliper that had to be replaced, need to grind the rear calipers to clear 15" wheels, which shouldn't be needed), my mechanic is telling me that the whole system is very "spongy"... pedal needs to mash to the floor just to grab. He says pressure is good, master cylinder is good, and tells me another customer with a similar Right Stuff kit had the same problem. His opinion is that Right Stuff is just garbage and I should toss it all in favor of something else. Now I've become used to the fact that I'll often have to light thousands of dollars on fire in order to get classic cars working, but just chucking a $1500 kit like that is giving me pause. This shop is VERY highly rated and did expert work on other parts of my car, so I'm hesitant to mark it up to the incompetance of the mechanic, but if that is the case, perhaps they would have an equal lack of success with another $1500 kit. What the hell do I do now?
 

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Welp... after weeks of struggling with this kit (need to modify the axle, a completely bogus caliper that had to be replaced, need to grind the rear calipers to clear 15" wheels, which shouldn't be needed), my mechanic is telling me that the whole system is very "spongy"... pedal needs to mash to the floor just to grab. He says pressure is good, master cylinder is good, and tells me another customer with a similar Right Stuff kit had the same problem. His opinion is that Right Stuff is just garbage and I should toss it all in favor of something else. Now I've become used to the fact that I'll often have to light thousands of dollars on fire in order to get classic cars working, but just chucking a $1500 kit like that is giving me pause. This shop is VERY highly rated and did expert work on other parts of my car, so I'm hesitant to mark it up to the incompetance of the mechanic, but if that is the case, perhaps they would have an equal lack of success with another $1500 kit. What the hell do I do now?

Did you speak with or email a tech at Right Stuff or even Summit? I would do this first before throwing in the towel.

I have never used their stuff so I can't really give an opinion if good or bad. However, something sounds amiss. Looking at the Summit photo, if accurate, I see a threaded rod coming out of the booster. Don't know what this adjusts on to, a heim joint? Maybe the length is incorrect for your application? Did your mechanic compare the original length of the rod that was in there to the Right Stuff rod?

Pontiac pedals typically have 2 holes for mounting the brake rod to master cylinder. One is for the manual non-power brakes and the other hole is for power brakes. Is the rod mounted in the correct hole position?

Now spongy would tell me that something is wrong within the system whether is be air, incorrect brake adjustment, vacuum/booster issue.

In my opinion, I think you have 2 different problems going on. Again, I would not throw in the towel and get frustrated enough to throw your money away and invest again in another system. These companies, both Right Stuff and Summit who promotes/sells the product, don't want unhappy or disappointed customers because negative reviews travel far and fast. So I would consult with them and it may be something very simple or even a brand new defective part that needs to be swapped out. :thumbsup:
 

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Did you speak with or email a tech at Right Stuff or even Summit? I would do this first before throwing in the towel.

I have never used their stuff so I can't really give an opinion if good or bad. However, something sounds amiss. Looking at the Summit photo, if accurate, I see a threaded rod coming out of the booster. Don't know what this adjusts on to, a heim joint? Maybe the length is incorrect for your application? Did your mechanic compare the original length of the rod that was in there to the Right Stuff rod?

Pontiac pedals typically have 2 holes for mounting the brake rod to master cylinder. One is for the manual non-power brakes and the other hole is for power brakes. Is the rod mounted in the correct hole position?

Now spongy would tell me that something is wrong within the system whether is be air, incorrect brake adjustment, vacuum/booster issue.

In my opinion, I think you have 2 different problems going on. Again, I would not throw in the towel and get frustrated enough to throw your money away and invest again in another system. These companies, both Right Stuff and Summit who promotes/sells the product, don't want unhappy or disappointed customers because negative reviews travel far and fast. So I would consult with them and it may be something very simple or even a brand new defective part that needs to be swapped out. :thumbsup:
My mechanic will call up Right Stuff probably tomorrow. Hopefully their tech support will bring up these suggestions and possibly others, I will also mention this to him. He had to talk to Right Stuff before when we went through the warranty issue regarding the bad caliper, and apparently their tech support was singularly unimpressive in their enthusiasm and knowledge during that call (although they did replace it). He's therefore skeptical that this can be fixed, and with no financial stake in me buying another kit or not (I provide the parts) and my car continuing to hog space in his shop, I'm sure he's saying this to the extent of his experience. The backup plan is a CPP kit, which is actually what OPGI sells and recommends, and he also says other customers have had luck with that. Wilwood is also advised but full Wilwood kits are around $3k... probably better suited for those who want to race their cars.

The crappy thing is that like Rummy I don't even know what I don't know... I don't have the space, skills, or time to do my own brakes so I could even learn any of this. Interiors, electrical, sure, but for anything else I'm at the mercy of mechanics and other's advise. I got lucky with my local engine rebuild which went awesome (I'll start a thread about that at some point). But this has been a complete dumpster fire and without buying a new house with space for a garage lift there's nothing I can do about it except throw money around.
 

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I used a kit by SSBC for my 1965 GTO. It cost me $700.00 plus the labor but the kit was complete. Rotors, Bearings, backing plates, lines, Master cylinder, booster and all hardware. The rotors are 9" so they are good for 14" stock wheels. My car stops on a dime and I have zero issues. I did not do the install but had a shop in town do it. If you are looking for a good solid system check it out. You can get the kits from SSBC, Ames, NPD all for around $700.00 give or take a few dollars. I am very satisfied with my system. I hope this is helpful. Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I used the Right Stuff Kit, only thing I dont like so far is the Power Boost angle when installed is tipped back to the driver....IE not as level as OEM. I am told this will not cause an issue but time will tell when I finish the install. BTW the kit you linked too is for 14" wheels so make sure you order the right kit.
Thanks! do you know which kit you used? What size wheels do you have?
 

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Apologies for squatting on the OP's thread, but to bring closure to my story above, I had my mechanic replace the Right Stuff 4-wheel kit with a Wilwood 4-wheel kit. Double the cost but the quality of the parts was light-years better. No issues installing or bleeding the brakes and they stop on a dime. When I was at the shop today he had an El Camino on the lift, and said that this other guy had Right Stuff brakes, and they were also crap. The plural of anecdote is not data, I know, but...

So to the OP, I'd suggest if you can afford it, go with Wilwood. Call them and tell them your needs and they will give you part numbers, you can order everything you want from Summit.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks for posting your experience StereoLab. I'm not looking to spend 3k on Wilwood brakes so I'll look at my other options but I may take my chances with the Right Stuff kit. Sounds like the majority of your issues were with the rear set up, I'll just be doing front discs, rear drums are fine with me.
 

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Thanks for posting your experience StereoLab. I'm not looking to spend 3k on Wilwood brakes so I'll look at my other options but I may take my chances with the Right Stuff kit. Sounds like the majority of your issues were with the rear set up, I'll just be doing front discs, rear drums are fine with me.
Yes, you may have more luck with just fronts. Rears with the way Right Stuff chose to do the ebrake mechanism are complex and problematic. Not to say everything RS does is substandard; for example their repro 11" booster is what I'm using with the Wilwoods (Wilwood doesn't make a booster) and it's great. But put the rotor/caliper mechanisms side-by-side and you can see where they cut corners. Anyways, I hope it works out for you.
 
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